DD won't start. Any clues? (maybe electrical short) - Page 4 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 07-17-2012, 04:41 PM   #61
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I am going to stick with it being a bad contact somewhere or possibly the main relay. I don't think it would be the ignition switch as it would seem that it would go back to acting normal on everything but start if it was messed up and not need to undo the battery to reset it.

Try turning the key to the run position and running a hot wire directly to the starter solinoid and see if it turns over if you have room to reach down there.
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Old 07-17-2012, 04:49 PM   #62
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or, why don't i use a test light on the ignition switch terminal at the starter and see if it lights up when i crank the ignition?
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Old 07-17-2012, 04:56 PM   #63
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Is this a manual or automatic?
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Old 07-17-2012, 04:58 PM   #64
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manual.
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Old 07-17-2012, 04:58 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgeoffriau View Post
Is this a manual or automatic?
Just about to ask if he tried push starting it.
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Old 07-17-2012, 05:03 PM   #66
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I was thinking more along the lines of the park/neutral position switch.
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Old 07-17-2012, 05:09 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
starter contacts look new. honestly it's the shinyest bolt/nut I've ever seen. the rubber boot held strong throughout the years...my cv joints on the other hand...

battery cables/contacts are perfect, there's no corrosion.
So did you just look at this from the outside and not take the nut off? These can look good and clean, but when you take them off there is a gunk that has formed between the positive lead and positive in on the starter. There is something wrong between the positive lead on the battery and positive terminal on the starter. It may be the wire itself, but I strongly believe this area to be the culprit.

I am telling you that is exact same thing, to the letter, happened to our bus and the positive lead to the starter had a layer of gunk under it that we couldn't see.

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Originally Posted by mgeoffriau View Post
I was thinking more along the lines of the park/neutral position switch.
That wouldn't cause all the other power to cut off though.
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Old 07-17-2012, 05:53 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gospeed81 View Post
Synopsis:


Brainy: Wutz wrong wit mah car guyth?

Rev: Battery
y8s: Battery
18psi: Battery
me: Battery
curly: Battery
Joe: Battery
pusha: Battery
your mother: Battery
everybody's brother: Battery

Brain: No, can't be the battery holmes u c, cuz it'sa chargin' an haz voltz.
Me: Cluster/Immobilizer?

I've seen brain hang out at cr.net... maybe he's turning into one of them.

Just shooting from the hip. If you can't find it to be anything power related consider it could be something cluster related. 3rd generation locksmith here and I've seen a lot of random crap happen with instrument clusters/computers/immobilizers. Most cars with immobilizers have security lights but lets say the "receiver" dies... it doesn't always recognize it as a fault code. just doesn't read the "chip" (transponder) in your key. In turn not getting the "password" from the key to give it the go ahead.... not sure if my words are useful but when I first read this thread and saw the video that was the first thing I thought of. I don't think it's the immobilizer specifically just a possibility. The cluster and computer would be just as suspect to me. I'd start with the battery and relays first as well and cover the basics but anyway ....
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Old 07-17-2012, 06:00 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rharris19 View Post
Just about to ask if he tried push starting it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mgeoffriau View Post
I was thinking more along the lines of the park/neutral position switch.
I did when the power first died. the car shut off, as with ALL power. so when i tried to as I was rolling down the hill, nothing happened because there was no power to anything. apparently things like injectors and coils needs energy. crazy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rharris19 View Post
So did you just look at this from the outside and not take the nut off?

I am telling you that is exact same thing, to the letter, happened to our bus and the positive lead to the starter had a layer of gunk under it that we couldn't see.

That wouldn't cause all the other power to cut off though.
yeah, i took it off when i pulled the 12v wire off the starter.

Quote:
Originally Posted by krissetsfire View Post
Me: Cluster/Immobilizer?

I've seen brain hang out at cr.net... maybe he's turning into one of them.

Just shooting from the hip. If you can't find it to be anything power related consider it could be something cluster related. 3rd generation locksmith here and I've seen a lot of random crap happen with instrument clusters/computers/immobilizers. Most cars with immobilizers have security lights but lets say the "receiver" dies... it doesn't always recognize it as a fault code. just doesn't read the "chip" (transponder) in your key. In turn not getting the "password" from the key to give it the go ahead.... not sure if my words are useful but when I first read this thread and saw the video that was the first thing I thought of. I don't think it's the immobilizer specifically just a possibility. The cluster and computer would be just as suspect to me. I'd start with the battery and relays first as well and cover the basics but anyway ....
Even lost the power to my little red LED for the security light. That typically flashes if there's an issue.
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Old 07-17-2012, 06:00 PM   #70
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here's a new video for you guys:




somehow i looped the same video twice in my attempt at drama. damn. i cant do anything right.
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Old 07-17-2012, 06:01 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
Cabin lights came on.
Dash lights came on.
Door chime was chiming.
headlights worked.
turn signals worked.
Crank the ignition and...

nothing happened, I lost all power to everything.
Cabin lights stopped working.
Dash lights stopped working.
Door chime stopped working.
headlights stopped working.
turn signals stopped working.


I pull the postive lead off the battery, put it back on and low and behold the power comes back on, try it again, and lose everything again. Battery voltage stays at 12.5v.

Before you repeat your steps, try this.

DMM positive lead to positive terminal only, not battery cable, or end.(leave everything hooked up, and only touch the center of the terminal.

DMM negative lead to engine ground (anywhere), not battery.

It should read the same as if you just tested the battery normally on positive, and negative terminals. ~12v-14v


Do the test again after you disconnect and reconnect battery, and run through your sequence to get everything off again.

What is your findings.
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Old 07-17-2012, 06:03 PM   #72
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is the car automatic or manual?
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Old 07-17-2012, 06:05 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pusha View Post
is the car automatic or manual?
Here, let me scroll up for you.
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Old 07-17-2012, 06:07 PM   #74
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thanks for the link bro
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Old 07-17-2012, 06:58 PM   #75
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no comments on video? skip to 1:41.
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Old 07-17-2012, 07:23 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
no comments on video? skip to 1:41.
I just watched the video.

Scott!
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Old 07-17-2012, 07:38 PM   #77
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useful comments?
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Old 07-17-2012, 07:39 PM   #78
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That terminal on the battery looks corroded and you just loosely have it on there. Tighten it down on the terminal well.
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Old 07-17-2012, 07:40 PM   #79
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they didn't fit well on the miata battery terminals, I had aluminum foil on the post to fill it in.

there's no corrosion. i promises.
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Old 07-17-2012, 07:45 PM   #80
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You need better contact than that. I think, if all your main positive lines check out ok, then it is your battery. The setup you are using with the miata battery should not eliminate the battery as the cause. Did they load test the battery when you took it in or just say it was giving 12v back?
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