I am going to stick with it being a bad contact somewhere or possibly the main relay. I don't think it would be the ignition switch as it would seem that it would go back to acting normal on everything but start if it was messed up and not need to undo the battery to reset it.
Try turning the key to the run position and running a hot wire directly to the starter solinoid and see if it turns over if you have room to reach down there. |
or, why don't i use a test light on the ignition switch terminal at the starter and see if it lights up when i crank the ignition?
|
Is this a manual or automatic?
|
manual.
|
Originally Posted by mgeoffriau
(Post 904350)
Is this a manual or automatic?
|
I was thinking more along the lines of the park/neutral position switch.
|
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 904285)
starter contacts look new. honestly it's the shinyest bolt/nut I've ever seen. the rubber boot held strong throughout the years...my cv joints on the other hand...
battery cables/contacts are perfect, there's no corrosion. I am telling you that is exact same thing, to the letter, happened to our bus and the positive lead to the starter had a layer of gunk under it that we couldn't see.
Originally Posted by mgeoffriau
(Post 904357)
I was thinking more along the lines of the park/neutral position switch.
|
Originally Posted by gospeed81
(Post 904237)
Synopsis:
Brainy: Wutz wrong wit mah car guyth? Rev: Battery y8s: Battery 18psi: Battery me: Battery curly: Battery Joe: Battery pusha: Battery your mother: Battery everybody's brother: Battery Brain: No, can't be the battery holmes u c, cuz it'sa chargin' an haz voltz. I've seen brain hang out at cr.net... maybe he's turning into one of them. Just shooting from the hip. If you can't find it to be anything power related consider it could be something cluster related. 3rd generation locksmith here and I've seen a lot of random crap happen with instrument clusters/computers/immobilizers. Most cars with immobilizers have security lights but lets say the "receiver" dies... it doesn't always recognize it as a fault code. just doesn't read the "chip" (transponder) in your key. In turn not getting the "password" from the key to give it the go ahead.... not sure if my words are useful but when I first read this thread and saw the video that was the first thing I thought of. I don't think it's the immobilizer specifically just a possibility. The cluster and computer would be just as suspect to me. I'd start with the battery and relays first as well and cover the basics but anyway .... |
Originally Posted by rharris19
(Post 904355)
Just about to ask if he tried push starting it.
Originally Posted by mgeoffriau
(Post 904357)
I was thinking more along the lines of the park/neutral position switch.
Originally Posted by rharris19
(Post 904358)
So did you just look at this from the outside and not take the nut off?
I am telling you that is exact same thing, to the letter, happened to our bus and the positive lead to the starter had a layer of gunk under it that we couldn't see. That wouldn't cause all the other power to cut off though.
Originally Posted by krissetsfire
(Post 904369)
Me: Cluster/Immobilizer?
I've seen brain hang out at cr.net... maybe he's turning into one of them. Just shooting from the hip. If you can't find it to be anything power related consider it could be something cluster related. 3rd generation locksmith here and I've seen a lot of random crap happen with instrument clusters/computers/immobilizers. Most cars with immobilizers have security lights but lets say the "receiver" dies... it doesn't always recognize it as a fault code. just doesn't read the "chip" (transponder) in your key. In turn not getting the "password" from the key to give it the go ahead.... not sure if my words are useful but when I first read this thread and saw the video that was the first thing I thought of. I don't think it's the immobilizer specifically just a possibility. The cluster and computer would be just as suspect to me. I'd start with the battery and relays first as well and cover the basics but anyway .... |
here's a new video for you guys:
somehow i looped the same video twice in my attempt at drama. damn. i cant do anything right. |
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 904274)
Cabin lights came on.
Dash lights came on. Door chime was chiming. headlights worked. turn signals worked. Crank the ignition and... nothing happened, I lost all power to everything. Cabin lights stopped working. Dash lights stopped working. Door chime stopped working. headlights stopped working. turn signals stopped working. I pull the postive lead off the battery, put it back on and low and behold the power comes back on, try it again, and lose everything again. Battery voltage stays at 12.5v. Before you repeat your steps, try this. DMM positive lead to positive terminal only, not battery cable, or end.(leave everything hooked up, and only touch the center of the terminal. DMM negative lead to engine ground (anywhere), not battery. It should read the same as if you just tested the battery normally on positive, and negative terminals. ~12v-14v Do the test again after you disconnect and reconnect battery, and run through your sequence to get everything off again. What is your findings. |
is the car automatic or manual?
|
Originally Posted by pusha
(Post 904380)
is the car automatic or manual?
|
|
no comments on video? skip to 1:41.
|
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 904412)
no comments on video? skip to 1:41.
Scott! :facepalm: |
useful comments?
|
That terminal on the battery looks corroded and you just loosely have it on there. Tighten it down on the terminal well.
|
they didn't fit well on the miata battery terminals, I had aluminum foil on the post to fill it in.
there's no corrosion. i promises. |
You need better contact than that. I think, if all your main positive lines check out ok, then it is your battery. The setup you are using with the miata battery should not eliminate the battery as the cause. Did they load test the battery when you took it in or just say it was giving 12v back?
|
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:57 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands