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Paging 18psi and z31maniac... What trans/diff fluid to you two recommend in my frs. All the popular subie/frs/brz sites recommend Motul... Though I'm a Amsoil fan and see others running Amsoil in trans/diff with no issues.... Going either or in the next few weeks, I just want smoother shifts 1-2-3 while cold. ATM, it's notchy AF with w/e the dealer has in it. At 69K miles, not sure if it's been changed out before as I'm the 2nd owner. Opinions?
CHANGE IT ASAP! Either brand is fine, I always preferred Red Line in my BMWs and other cars, because it's still a high quality oil, and it's usually readily available locally. Versus Motul that I ran in my BRZ that I always had to order.
Little known fact about the twins, the transmission change is interval is 22k miles, because of the low capacity, not the typical 30k miles like most cars. In reality, to keep the transmission smooth all the time, I'd shoot for an 18-20k change interval with high quality fluid.
Still no damn ND2s in OKC yet. There is 1 in Tulsa, and we have to be up there this weekend for a wedding, so I won't have the time to go test drive it. And do the "what will you give me trade-in, etc" for one.
I'm still not really seeing any GT-S cars, unless the dealers that do have them aren't naming them that way. After looking at the specs more, I don't care about the extra nannies, or leather seats instead of cloth, however, the idea of much thicker, quieter top is appealing since it will be my DD.
Yeah, I had to drive from NM to St. Louis to get my GTS.
The thicker top on the GT trim is very noticeable to me. It takes the edge off all the road and wind noise. I traded in my thin top 2016 for it, so I had a direct back-to-back comparison. I also have a 124, which all models have the thick top, so it is equal to that, as it should be.
Last edited by Chilicharger665; 12-01-2018 at 01:42 AM.
*edit: I just realized I didn't post any info. D'oh!
STOCK EJ20x running ALLOFIT for over a year making 430whp (stock internals) and then he hydrolocks it and nukes it at idle lolol.
Pistons, bores, and bearings look great, wihch is a compliment to the tuning
*edit: I just realized I didn't post any info. D'oh!
STOCK EJ20x running ALLOFIT for over a year making 430whp (stock internals) and then he hydrolocks it and nukes it at idle lolol.
Pistons, bores, and bearings look great, wihch is a compliment to the tuning
That's the background I was looking for. Dang, that was mangled.
Location: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
Posts: 5,677
Total Cats: 800
There aren't very many things i hate more than pulling a subaru engine when it's below freezing.
Come to think of it, i usually end up working on subarus more than any other car. I think i might know why.
Location: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
Posts: 5,677
Total Cats: 800
That old chassis has like 350k on it. Engine has 150ish with light mods. Considering Michigan will rust out anything within a few years, that's not bad. Held up pretty well.
Been meaning to pickup the side markers for while. I have amber LEDs ready to go from Diode Dynamics. I'm looking to improve ALLTHETHINGS with shifting on this car. I will be also ordering amsoil fluids for engine/trans/diff. If I don't like the clutch spring I'll swap it out, we'll see how that goes. I'd install all of this myself but the MSM is in the garage :/ (I decided to keep it, planning to un-BEGi some of the things done to the car in the future... FF injectors & Megasquirt on the list )
Eventually will pick up the FT86 short shifter ($275), it uses ball bearings? Idk... but provides shorter throw distance and lowers the **** a little bit. Don't care much for the delrin reverse lock thingy it comes with, might switch the oem over to make everything still appear oem.
11-06-2018, 11:35 PM
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