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The Dedicated URABUS Thread
#3264
No new Subaru is "worth it" lol
Good question: I don't really have any set number in mind for a goal, but I'd like to make at least as much power as it did on stock block (405) and just a bit more torque (395). So my unofficial goal would be 405/425 or thereabouts.
I'm really loving the SI-Drive's ability to switch throttle mapping and boost mapping on the fly.
Currently it's set to
i: wastegate pressure 16psi
s: "low boost" 18psi
s#: "high boost" 21psi
Eventually my high boost will be something like 25 which should hopefully give me the torque I'm looking for.
Good question: I don't really have any set number in mind for a goal, but I'd like to make at least as much power as it did on stock block (405) and just a bit more torque (395). So my unofficial goal would be 405/425 or thereabouts.
I'm really loving the SI-Drive's ability to switch throttle mapping and boost mapping on the fly.
Currently it's set to
i: wastegate pressure 16psi
s: "low boost" 18psi
s#: "high boost" 21psi
Eventually my high boost will be something like 25 which should hopefully give me the torque I'm looking for.
#3267
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (37)
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Very NorCal
Posts: 10,441
Total Cats: 1,899
So much urabus maintenance today. Ungh!
I finally got around to replacing the A/C condenser that I fragged back in October. I pulled the nose and the radiator to get some working space and I'm glad I did! While I have the front end apart I'm also replacing the A/C idler pulley because it's bearing is super crunchy, and also replacing both the accessory drive belts. They look worn and belts are cheap, so I see no reason why I shouldn't replace them while I have the space to work. While the A/C system is down, I also replaced the WRX A/C hardline with one from an STI. Because reasons.
System is all freshly o-ringed and pumped down, so I'm going to take a 45 min break and see if she holds vacuum. Once that looks good, recharge and reassemble the cooling system.
If I'm feeling ambitious tonight, rotors and pads are on the menu. If not tonight then definitely tomorrow.
I finally got around to replacing the A/C condenser that I fragged back in October. I pulled the nose and the radiator to get some working space and I'm glad I did! While I have the front end apart I'm also replacing the A/C idler pulley because it's bearing is super crunchy, and also replacing both the accessory drive belts. They look worn and belts are cheap, so I see no reason why I shouldn't replace them while I have the space to work. While the A/C system is down, I also replaced the WRX A/C hardline with one from an STI. Because reasons.
System is all freshly o-ringed and pumped down, so I'm going to take a 45 min break and see if she holds vacuum. Once that looks good, recharge and reassemble the cooling system.
If I'm feeling ambitious tonight, rotors and pads are on the menu. If not tonight then definitely tomorrow.
#3272
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (37)
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Very NorCal
Posts: 10,441
Total Cats: 1,899
Brakes are done! New pads and rotors and nice and stealthy quiet.
The front bushings were pretty beat when I completely rebuilt the front suspension last year, so I'm sure the rear needs to be gone through as well. /sigh. Just 165k Subaru things I guess.
- Rear endlinks are all cracked and wallered out so they'll need to be replaced
- Brake lines (probably original to the car) have cracks in the outer rubber cover. Probably time to replace.
- Passenger side rear and driver side front struts have puked oil, time to start shopping struts. (fack!)
- Driver rear caliper to caliper mounting bracket bolts stripped (wasn't me, I've never had them apart) Hopefully easily fixed with new sliders and bolts.
- Oil leak from above the filter appears to be slightly worse and needs to be addressed.
- All the push clips for the nose are missing or broken (zip tied on for now) need to be replaced.
- Differential seems to move around A LOT more than I expected. Might need new bushings.
The front bushings were pretty beat when I completely rebuilt the front suspension last year, so I'm sure the rear needs to be gone through as well. /sigh. Just 165k Subaru things I guess.
#3273
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Redwood City, CA
Posts: 1,784
Total Cats: 42
Anyone have an aftermarket uppipe and have any opinions on it? The heat shield on my stock one is rattling and its driving me insane. I'm gonna have to rip it off but if the flex joint is leaking underneath it makes more sense to just buy an aftermarket one.
...unless I need a tune. edit: it appears i do not.
...unless I need a tune. edit: it appears i do not.
Last edited by MartinezA92; 05-23-2018 at 12:51 AM.
#3274
the sti catless downpipes give up nothing to aftermarket variants IMO. at least not on stock turbo.
the heat shields are annoying, but my pops and I always weld them up and move on, and IMO the way they're designed and built is nowhere near as bad as the people out there will have you believe. At least not on the newer few that I took apart and inspected. You want as much insulation and heat shielding on it as possible, to retain that heat/energy into the turbo. only with big power do you want something higher flowing.
IMO easier to just have (a non terribad welder) properly weld heat shields
in other news
wanted to push it more, but AGAIN ran out of fuel basically 265LPH will not support over 400 without hardwiring no matter what you do.
the heat shields are annoying, but my pops and I always weld them up and move on, and IMO the way they're designed and built is nowhere near as bad as the people out there will have you believe. At least not on the newer few that I took apart and inspected. You want as much insulation and heat shielding on it as possible, to retain that heat/energy into the turbo. only with big power do you want something higher flowing.
IMO easier to just have (a non terribad welder) properly weld heat shields
in other news
wanted to push it more, but AGAIN ran out of fuel basically 265LPH will not support over 400 without hardwiring no matter what you do.
Last edited by 18psi; 05-23-2018 at 01:34 AM.
#3276
Elite Member
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Redwood City, CA
Posts: 1,784
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Yeah my only issue is it sounds like I have an exhaust leak from there and it seems like it's not uncommon for the flex joint to leak. If the uppipe is cracked a Grimmspeed one with thermal coating is barely any more $ than an OEM one.
After further inspection a welder with small hands might be able to get in there and lay down a few tacks to the very obviously broken part of the heat shield. Assuming it's not leaking that is
After further inspection a welder with small hands might be able to get in there and lay down a few tacks to the very obviously broken part of the heat shield. Assuming it's not leaking that is
#3279
Alright, the aem 320lph came in today so in it went. WHAT A DIFFERENCE in fuel pressure from the DW65c. A solid 10-12psi more after 5k
Here's 3 runs after the tune touch up: looks like I'm now at the limit of my very restrictive 2.5" cobb catted downpipe and 2.5" Fujitsubo exhaust. You can see that I actually make MORE power with LESS boost up top. This indicates skyrocketing EGBP
Not really sure what to do now. The exhaust setup sounds AMAZING and I love it. But clearly it's holding me back/chocking me up. I don't want the car any louder. Might do a boost activated downpipe cutout and stock exhaust. Dunno if it's even worth the effort for another 20ish hp
Here's 3 runs after the tune touch up: looks like I'm now at the limit of my very restrictive 2.5" cobb catted downpipe and 2.5" Fujitsubo exhaust. You can see that I actually make MORE power with LESS boost up top. This indicates skyrocketing EGBP
Not really sure what to do now. The exhaust setup sounds AMAZING and I love it. But clearly it's holding me back/chocking me up. I don't want the car any louder. Might do a boost activated downpipe cutout and stock exhaust. Dunno if it's even worth the effort for another 20ish hp
Last edited by 18psi; 06-02-2018 at 03:35 AM.