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The Dedicated URABUS Thread
05-12-2015, 01:03 PM
#1043
Having some issues with my new battery leaking. My old one leaked but it was quite old and needed replacing anyways.
I had the alternator checked when i bought the new battery. They ran the test 3 times and it was a consistent pass with 14.3 volts. Installed the new battery and checked the voltage. It was 14.5 at idle. That is a little on the high side but not enough to cook a battery.
I was doing some maintenance today and noticed some leakage on the battery. Checked the voltage again and it was 14.4. I dont want to cook a brand new battery but wtf?
I ran a jumper cable from the ground post to the engine and no difference in charging voltage. I cleaned the two grounds visible on top of the IM.
I had the alternator checked when i bought the new battery. They ran the test 3 times and it was a consistent pass with 14.3 volts. Installed the new battery and checked the voltage. It was 14.5 at idle. That is a little on the high side but not enough to cook a battery.
I was doing some maintenance today and noticed some leakage on the battery. Checked the voltage again and it was 14.4. I dont want to cook a brand new battery but wtf?
I ran a jumper cable from the ground post to the engine and no difference in charging voltage. I cleaned the two grounds visible on top of the IM.
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05-13-2015, 12:50 PM
#1047
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Redwood City, CA
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Do most Subies charge at that voltage? I've noticed on a LOT of Subarus that the red cap on the wire at the alternator is melted or burned. My girlfriends sister has a Forester that once completely melted that same wire.
14.5 doesn't sound that high to me, but I work at a Toyota dealer and all the new cars straight from the factory charge at 13-13.5 and rarely ever past 14.
My NA at idle charged at like 13.3 lol -_-
14.5 doesn't sound that high to me, but I work at a Toyota dealer and all the new cars straight from the factory charge at 13-13.5 and rarely ever past 14.
My NA at idle charged at like 13.3 lol -_-
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05-13-2015, 01:21 PM
#1053
I sold my BRZ after 5 weeks. The engine is so unfun on the street with that torque dip. I don't have access to E85, so that wasn't an option. I actually drove to a track day, but decided not to do it in the BRZ, because I couldn't bear the thought of crunching it. A performance car that I am afraid to use was no use to me and combined with the terrible street manners made me sell it.
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05-13-2015, 01:23 PM
#1054
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Join Date: Aug 2009
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I sold my BRZ after 5 weeks. The engine is so unfun on the street with that torque dip. I don't have access to E85, so that wasn't an option. I actually drove to a track day, but decided not to do it in the BRZ, because I couldn't bear the thought of crunching it. A performance car that I am afraid to use was no use to me and combined with the terrible street manners made me sell it.
I would definitely track my STI as long as I had 2600 dollars to buy myself a shortblock soon after
The rest of the car seems like it would do fairly well.
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05-13-2015, 02:45 PM
#1056
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: OKC, OK
Posts: 3,693
Total Cats: 222
I have an MXP cat-back, Ground Controls, 18x9.5 RPF1s with 255/35 DZIIs, and an OFT tune (both 91 and Corn).
Next up is a Grimmspeed intake, header/overpipe combo.
I sold my BRZ after 5 weeks. The engine is so unfun on the street with that torque dip. I don't have access to E85, so that wasn't an option. I actually drove to a track day, but decided not to do it in the BRZ, because I couldn't bear the thought of crunching it. A performance car that I am afraid to use was no use to me and combined with the terrible street manners made me sell it.
But yes, you do have to keep the engine on boil to make time post haste.
Just curious other than the engine what you consider terrible street manners? Even once I put on the Ground Controls, which upped the spring rates roughly 2.5x it wasn't bad, it didn't get a bit annoying until the 35series DZIIs.....they sidewalls made of stone.
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05-13-2015, 02:49 PM
#1057
I changed out the positive post terminal (corrosion) and retested. After some warm up, it settled down to 14.3. Ran a bunch of loads on it and it stays the same. Brought the revs up and it stays the same. Time will tell i guess.
Do most Subies charge at that voltage? I've noticed on a LOT of Subarus that the red cap on the wire at the alternator is melted or burned. My girlfriends sister has a Forester that once completely melted that same wire.
14.5 doesn't sound that high to me, but I work at a Toyota dealer and all the new cars straight from the factory charge at 13-13.5 and rarely ever past 14.
My NA at idle charged at like 13.3 lol -_-
14.5 doesn't sound that high to me, but I work at a Toyota dealer and all the new cars straight from the factory charge at 13-13.5 and rarely ever past 14.
My NA at idle charged at like 13.3 lol -_-
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05-13-2015, 03:36 PM
#1060
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: OKC, OK
Posts: 3,693
Total Cats: 222
The intake and the rest of the exhaust is only another 5-8whp.
The stock fuel system on these is good to around 300whp, which is when stuff starts breaking anyway. I wish I had $7k laying around for the Jackson Racing S/C kit.
But 160-165whp to 200whp is a nice bump in a ~2750lb car (and depending what you're willing to do, it's really easy to get almost another 150lbs of weight out of the car without gutting it or pulling sound insulation). And the gears are so tight 2nd-5th, if you keep it on boil if feels quicker than the numbers suggest.
And of course we both know you don't buy one of these to go do highway pulls.
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