whew.

 

 

I'm on vacation and typing on a phone right now so I can't post anything all that elaborate.

Regarding the TGV deletes, I did a very detailed analysis of TGV operation on the new fa20dit here http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2687550

For the pre 2008 ej engine the tgv is to improve mixing and stabilize combustion during catalyst light off. You can delete and compensate with tuning. For the 08-14 EJ engines I simply have not done the research on all the various details.

I do know that the 08-14 uses secondary air injection to meet the California LEV II emissions for NMOG non methane organic gas, basically hydrocarbons, and CO on the FTP test cycle. In 2013 the NMOG standard tightened for 20 Fahrenheit cold start so I don't know if anything changed there. I'm not sure at this time how the TGV interacts at cold start with the secondary air staging and control between banks.

I know the TGV works at part throttle for faster burn, but it's not as critical on the EJ as the fa20dit because it's port injection and it doesn't use cooled high pressure egr.

Should you delete it? You can do so but you need to tune for it. Will you gain performance? Deleting a TGV increases the flow of the port. I'm skeptical of nasioc proven power bragging claims in general (too many swinging dicks in that forum), so I'm not one to wade into quantifying horsepower increase here. Will deleting it hurt your car or your fuel economy? If you tune for it, you're probably fine. Will you notice the fuel economy hit? Hard to say, but fuel economy has so many mental placebo effects and driving style aspects.

These things can be answered better with datalogs to view and stock maps to understand. I just haven't dug into it on the EJ like I did with the fa20dit.

 

Thanks for that post. Reading that thread too

 

So this happened yesterday


I wonder which one will make more power

 

the one with the gold wastegate actuator.

which are what?

 

 

vf52 vs blouch 440xt

 

Just because the outside of a casting is fat, doesn't mean the inside is.

EDIT: what's the plan for the VF52? Selling it?

 

I'd be pretty bummed if it wasn't, lol.
It's advertised as 10cm² vs the stock ~7cm² or something like that.
You can clearly see the difference

The plan is for it to go on a shelf with the rest of the oem parts
The stocker maxes out at 350/400 on corn.
My goal is 400/400 on corn with this supposedly much better reathing snail.

 

Hey subaru experts....

So I have 2 issues with the 05 outback XT Limited that I think are related but not sure.

1. When cold starting the car, it stumbles to life, runs like it's flooded at first.
2. At a dead idle, when hot, the idle is a touch rough. BUT, if you barely touch the gas, it gets like 5x worse! Then give it a touch more gas and it runs fine.

Any ideas what would cause this? Do you think it's 2 separate issues or 1 causing both?

 

Pull a LV screen shot and let's see those fuel trims.

 

What is LV? I have an accessport, and an OBDII dongle with the Torque App so I can see RT data and fault codes with it.

 

Did you tune your car or are you just running an OTS cobb map?
Is your accessport a v2? Log your fuel trims at both those times.
If you're on the stock tmic you're probably leaking

 

It's an OFS cobb map, for stage 2, the safest map they have. I run 93 Octane. Have the BP TMIC mod with a pusher fan on the IC.

The accessport was bought new about a year ago, I don't know what version it is, I'll go check in a minute.

I guess I need to go see what the fuel trims do as you say. Will the fuel trims be active on a cold start though? I know it will for hot idle of course.

 

CL idle kicks in after about 5-10 seconds. Before that it runs OL, and if your mass airflow scaling is too fat down there it will run really rich, most cobb maps do.

There are a dozen other things that could cause this, but I'm suggesting you start with the easiest/most obvious

What's a BP tmic? stocker with the reinforcement mod?

 

If it helps, it didn't always do this. When I tuned it a year ago all was well. This problem has slowly developed over the last probalby 6 to 8 months.

 

I need new pads and rotors for the front of my '05 OBXT. I had some stoptech pads and centric rotors, but they grind if I let the car sit more than 3 days (or overnight if it rains), and the rotors are shot after like 3 years. I expected to get a couple sets of pads out of a set of rotors.

I'm thinking about the Wagner Thermoquiets because they're cheap and get good reviews. Thoughts?
And I can't imagine why the rotors died so fast on their own, so I'll probably get centrics again unless you guys have better ideas.

The stoptechs in the back are still in decent shape for now so I'm keeping those.

 

When I bought my 05 outback xt limited, it had brand new duralast gold pads/rotors on all 4 corners. This was a 72k miles.

I now have 3k miles towing a miata on a tow dolly, and the odometer is around 129k, had the car 3yrs 8 months. Brakes work great*, all I've done is bleed/flush the brake fluid once/year, which btw helps with the sponge-pedal feature on these a lot.

*as far as outback's go.

 

I have the wagners thermo quiet on the lgt. No noise, even if the rotors flash rust after a rain, good cold bite, no complaints.