Machismo

iTrader: (1)

Poly-pro bushings are FTW! Just installed some last weekend for the diff. and are a day and night difference in the driveline now. Almost went w/ the Delrin, but questioned there sizing compared to polys. No noise from them either.

cueball1

iTrader: (13)

I've already got mine from that Hyperflex group buy earlier. Just haven't taken the time to install anything yet.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

5psi while your holds revs at 4k is VERY manly.




im running solid mounts on the diff, much improved.

pschmidt

iTrader: (19)

I posted up in the other thread.

Practice is all it takes.

195/50/15

There's a 12.3 in this car as it sits. High-high 11 if I get the ***** to run slicks.

jayc72

iTrader: (14)

Explain how a rear swaybar will effect a straight ahead launch? If it is adding spring rate while the car is loaded equally on both sides something is wrong.

Go full soft on your shocks. Remember that a clutch is cheaper than a diff when launching.

cueball1

iTrader: (13)

Yeah, pschmidt, you are my inspiration!

You had visions of sub 13's running in my head. What a reality check. Every damn run I was having to chase down the other guy.

Markp

LOL, I wish I could get mine to hit a 12.3, even with a 115 MPH trap speed I can't get under a 2.0 60 foot. The answer is always... More Boost.

Mark

bryantaylor

iTrader: (5)

you sir, have just been siged

Rafa

iTrader: (22)

Marc, can you explain this a little further?

Thanks

18psi

iTrader: (76)

you can run all the boost in the world, but if your driving sucks, you'll still run a bad time....
practice those launches..........just my .02

bryantaylor

iTrader: (5)

thats why i roll race

cueball1

iTrader: (13)

That's why I started this thread! Launch is everything to making the really quick times. If I had a quicker launch that means I'm going faster at the 60' mark. That means I'm not hitting the traps at 103 but maybe 105 or better. Taking a quarter second off the 60' might be 1/3 of a second or more at the finish line. Hell, my missed shifts didn't effect my time as much as poor launches did.

Gotta rev higher and slip the clutch more. Maybe try that girly launch control thing people are talking about!!!

fmowry

iTrader: (8)

I pulled a few mid 1.8 60s in my first Miata. I was running about 15 psi of air in the rears, full soft on the crappy KYB AGXs. I slipped the clutch to launch and when I felt the tires spin I feathered the clutch a bit to catch traction again.

More boost or a bigger turbo just means you lose with a higher trap speed.

Frank

l_bader

Drop rear tire pressure to 20-25psi; it'll reduce wheel spin akin to softer springs without having to alter your daily driver. (Just remember to reinflate before you head home.)

Also don't forget to keep the driver tuned. Stay hydrated and eat a banana or two at the start of the evening. You'll stay more alert and the potassium in the monkey-fruit will aid the nervous system.

As you are getting started, remember the real racing is against yourself. More than anything else, work at consistancy. Then change one thing (tire pressure, launch rpm, clutch drop, etc.) to see what improves and what degrades.

After you have spent a few nights learning what works for you and your car, then worry about the gearhead in the other lane.

- L

M-Tuned

iTrader: (6)

Better chance of busting your diff on regular street tires than you do on a drag radial or slick when your are sub 400hp! Wheel hop kills!

crashnscar

iTrader: (9)

I know a guy who wheel-hopped to a 2.12 and broke my diff on the next run. To be honest, if you want to keep dragging the car, you should seriously consider swapping an Rx7 LSD into an open pumpkin and selling the Torsen to pay for it.

cueball1

iTrader: (13)

I always thought the point of slicks or drag radial was more grip. Wouldn't that increase wheel hop? What are the logistics or physics that slicks or drag radials decrease wheel hop? Would I be better off with my road race slicks I already own than the street tires? I know the stiff sidewall isn't optimal for drags but would they be easier on the diff than the Hankook RS2's?

18psi

iTrader: (76)

ok so someone clarify this for me:
the rx7 diff fits right in as far as i have read, and pretty easy to get it to work on the miata, and it provides alot more strength than the stocker in drag racing...

BUT

if its out of a high *** mileage rx7, doesnt it need to be rebuilt?
The reason I ask this, is because my co-worker has an 86 rx7 non turbo sitting around with parts for my taking. I can get the diff from him very cheap, but will it need to be rebuilt?