Garage Lifts
#41
Most home garage ceilings can be raised by modifying the existing trusses using a box or scissor type to gain the needed height for a 2 post lift. I think the posts on my Rotary are 12'2". A ~10k lb lift usually lists for 4' x 4' x 6" @ 3000psi pad, rebar keyed to the existing floor. And it doesn't take much $ to exceed that with thickness and psi.
Garage door rails are raised with the ceiling - requires spring upgrade and possibly opener upgrade. Seen here
Garage Journal thread documenting the work to install a full size 2 post lift in a typical 2 car garage with 9ft ceilings.
Something to consider- I used a local installer to source my 2 post lift (got the name from a local shop.)He offered a 12k lbs Rotary Asym. (repo'd) delivered, installed, 1 yr. parts/service warranty for $2200. The price was competitive with a new no-name brand- which I would then need to pick up and install myself. I figured having a local contact was a bonus if it needed service. I just missed out on all the 8k lbs 2 post lifts he had from Saturn dealerships- $1600 installed.
#42
You can and *should* bolt it down, but mine isn't bolted to the floor yet so I can reposition the ramps as needed.
#44
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Anyone have a Direct Lift 8S? I'd be interesting in hearing your real life experience with it, what it was like to assemble, what you've lifted with it, etc.
Four Post Lift - Pro Park 8S (Standard)
Four Post Lift - Pro Park 8S (Standard)
#45
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A quick google search (aka: not reliable) reveals that you can get a useful 2 post lift for roughly $500 less. Why not that route? You can still park a car under, and it's actually useful for things besides lifting on the car. You know, like working on it.
#46
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Yes, a 4 post lift makes it more difficult for wheel work but it still can be done with jack trays that let you lift the wheels off the runway. But the fact that you can still access a great deal under the car and it's a nice storage solution outweighs those downsides in my mind. Each lift style (2 post, 4 post, or mid-rise scissors) has it's own ups and downs.
#47
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The 9000FP from Worth Equipment claims to be only 108" inches tall. I might be able to fit that in my garage.
#48
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I've had a DirectLift asymmetric 2-post for about 4 years now. No major issues, and I think it was $1700 picked up. I doubt it would hold up as well if I were lifting 5,000lb+ cars on a daily basis, but if you need to put a 2500lb sports car in the air every once in a while, it's the way to go. No experience with the 4-post version, but I wouldn't let the low price scare you away.
#49
The 9000FP from Worth Equipment claims to be only 108" inches tall. I might be able to fit that in my garage.
One little crack in the garage floor of either of the 2 outside bolts and the entire thing goes down.
#50
That shouldn't stop you IF you really prefer the 2 post. fwiw- Standard procedure is to demo, excavate and install concrete to the manufacturers spec (or beyond.) The installer I got my two post lift from said this actually the procedure he always uses for commercial lifts (the kind that pick up heavy equipment- utility trucks, school buses) because there's never existing concrete meeting the requirements for these lifts on site.
#51
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That shouldn't stop you IF you really prefer the 2 post. fwiw- Standard procedure is to demo, excavate and install concrete to the manufacturers spec (or beyond.) The installer I got my two post lift from said this actually the procedure he always uses for commercial lifts (the kind that pick up heavy equipment- utility trucks, school buses) because there's never existing concrete meeting the requirements for these lifts on site.
#52
- Rent a stone saw with diamond blade to cut perimeter. If you have a friend who is a landscaper he/she would likely have the saw and blade for cutting patio stones or interlock so borrow it.
- Try using a sledge to break-up the concrete into manageable pieces.
- If this doesn't work you can:
a) Rent an electric jack hammer and break it up (Note: I used air powered hammers which are significantly better so I would ask the rental company how effective an electric unit is at your floors depth) or
b) Cut the chunk into smaller squares and use a pry-bar.
If the concrete is thicker than the blade depth you will still need to score the perimeter to ensure that the jack hammer doesn't break up the portion of the floor you want to leave intact.
All this comes from years of breaking-up concrete pool decks which varied significantly in depth. I personally (might be biased) would attempt it on my own. If I had these tools in hand and the depth was only a few inches I could have it done in less than a hour. NOTE: If your floor is reinforced with loads of rebar it might be worth paying. In this case you would have to break it up and then pry the broken pieces until you can use metal snips to cut rebar.
Obviously when the concrete is removed get out the shovel and dig. When you have prepped the area to the extent you are willing to go then pay for the pouring. Someone might know the concrete process and could give you the DIY, but given what is being lifted I would personally feel safer paying.
- Try using a sledge to break-up the concrete into manageable pieces.
- If this doesn't work you can:
a) Rent an electric jack hammer and break it up (Note: I used air powered hammers which are significantly better so I would ask the rental company how effective an electric unit is at your floors depth) or
b) Cut the chunk into smaller squares and use a pry-bar.
If the concrete is thicker than the blade depth you will still need to score the perimeter to ensure that the jack hammer doesn't break up the portion of the floor you want to leave intact.
All this comes from years of breaking-up concrete pool decks which varied significantly in depth. I personally (might be biased) would attempt it on my own. If I had these tools in hand and the depth was only a few inches I could have it done in less than a hour. NOTE: If your floor is reinforced with loads of rebar it might be worth paying. In this case you would have to break it up and then pry the broken pieces until you can use metal snips to cut rebar.
Obviously when the concrete is removed get out the shovel and dig. When you have prepped the area to the extent you are willing to go then pay for the pouring. Someone might know the concrete process and could give you the DIY, but given what is being lifted I would personally feel safer paying.
Last edited by Staffah; 03-04-2014 at 04:34 PM.
#53
^True. Cost would depend on too many factors to guess, but I would definitely lean towards the lower figure. You can buy sacks of 4000psi fiber reinforced concrete at bldg supply stores. Rebar on the pads needs to be keyed to existing slab- but these specs can be had from the lift manufacturer. I bought my lift from a local certified installer. He located, inventoried (check/replaced all parts), delivered and installed a repo'd Rotary 10k unit for $2500- then warranted it for 1 year. I was considering a lighter duty new no-name lift, but opted for this instead. So you might ask around and see if you can find a local installer who comes across repos or deinstalls. The guy who did mine said I just missed a load (18) 8k lifts from Saturn dealerships - he was reselling them for $1500 installed.
#54
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Thanks. You're right, cutting it up and digging does sound like a an easy enough DIY job.
I've been barking up that tree for nearly a year. The closest I got was someone that had repo'd a nice Rotary two post with 12' columns and but that wouldn't fit in my garage. He said I "just missed" a bunch of good stuff when I first started talking to him, including a practically brand new 4 post from a Cadillac dealership that traded it in for a 2 post. He said that dealer couldn't give it away for scrap prices for a while. I'd like to know where these deals are now that I'm actually looking.
I've been barking up that tree for nearly a year. The closest I got was someone that had repo'd a nice Rotary two post with 12' columns and but that wouldn't fit in my garage. He said I "just missed" a bunch of good stuff when I first started talking to him, including a practically brand new 4 post from a Cadillac dealership that traded it in for a 2 post. He said that dealer couldn't give it away for scrap prices for a while. I'd like to know where these deals are now that I'm actually looking.
#55
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Anyone have this system? I don't see a picture of it in this thread, so i assume it hasn't been brought up. I see the bend pak one. This one is very similar costs slightly less and you can't drive over it, or aren't supposed to.
Ranger 5175185 3,500 Lb. Capacity QuickJack™
Thinking about it for the garage, just to get the cars up in the air quickly. Portable. Usable at the track / autocross(with the 12v system(but i have a 110 inverter i'm sure it would work on)). Could take over to peoples houses, or shop.
Not sure how good it would be for exhaust, or transmission work as you can't get under from the sides. But it gets the car pretty far off the ground. It's small and perfect for our little cars.
I'm seriously considering this. I'm sick of driving up on blocks and spending an hour just getting my car in the air.
Ranger 5175185 3,500 Lb. Capacity QuickJack™
Thinking about it for the garage, just to get the cars up in the air quickly. Portable. Usable at the track / autocross(with the 12v system(but i have a 110 inverter i'm sure it would work on)). Could take over to peoples houses, or shop.
Not sure how good it would be for exhaust, or transmission work as you can't get under from the sides. But it gets the car pretty far off the ground. It's small and perfect for our little cars.
I'm seriously considering this. I'm sick of driving up on blocks and spending an hour just getting my car in the air.
#56
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Not a bad price, and I've considered it, but I really want something that will lift the Tacoma as well. Those suckers are heavy, over 4200 pounds. As a result, I'm seriously considering the EZcarlift. Sure it's expensive for non-powered, but it does what I want with no concrete work. Best of all, it is portable if I need to move it.
#58
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Raise your herra frush ride height and get this jack if you just want to avoid spending an hour getting it up. Reaches all the way to the front subframe from the front, wont reach the diff in the back (because the cross brace, would reach on a 1.6), but you only have to go to the bolt for the cross brace in the rear. Have the car up to the max height of the jack stands in 10 minutes.
Also i lift the back of the car from the rear tow hook. It works fine, have never had an issue.
Not a bad price, and I've considered it, but I really want something that will lift the Tacoma as well. Those suckers are heavy, over 4200 pounds. As a result, I'm seriously considering the EZcarlift. Sure it's expensive for non-powered, but it does what I want with no concrete work. Best of all, it is portable if I need to move it.
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5k version post #49: The Garage Journal Board - View Single Post - What I've been testing (QUICKJACK by Ranger Products)!
Keep reading through that.
I guess they were supposed to ship mid February. Though that's what we were told about TECNA's too.