Used on a stock DSM for 1,800 miles. Picked it up locally for $100, not bad.

I went ahead and took it apart to check the diaphragm, great shape. I also took out the smaller spring.

Few questions I couldn't find any answers on.

1.The vacuum port seems really tiny, would it help to put in a larger one?

2.When I push the valve open from the bottom, it seems to stick and come down slowly. Is this because the diaphragm doesn't have pressure on the other side, or is the diaphragm binding up?

3.What maintenance does it need? I tried looking for a maintenance page, but couldn't find one. I didn't get the instructions with it.

4. I need to take it apart one more time. Would it help anyone if I took pictures of it apart?

Pictures

 

I'm pretty sure there is an o-ring in there. Might help to lube the oring and inner housing with a little oil before installing, or vaseline w/e. That vac port should be fine and vac should pull it closed faster than when it's sitting on your desk. Weird that it hesitates though.

 

Take it apart and clean it,it might just be dirty.

 

i had that on my sr20det. wish i had a type s tho :(

 

Spray in some throttle body cleaner to remove any carbon build up.

 

There is none, it hardly looks used. I think I'm going to try a small amount of sewing machine oil. It worked well for the Turbo XS type S, should work well for this too.

 

Found the problem. The diaphragm is binding up. What lube should I use here? Needs to be rubber safe and needs to stick well.

I was thinking syl-glide, but I'm not sure if it is rubber safe. Vaseline is out, eats rubber. Engine oil might be too thin?

Thanks.

 

Use sewing machine oil or hydraulic fluid.

 

My Type S with the lower port hooked up is slow to close, you can hear it whistle as it closes at idle....

 

so is my type rs, it whistles as it closes. in the beginning i thought it was my brakes squealing

 

This one binds up though, I can't pull it closed with my fingers. The part where the diaphragm folds get stuck beween the metal cup and the housing. I think if it had a little bit of lube it wouldn't get stuck.

 

I used brake caliper lube on my Forge BOV. It's a piston type like yours too.

 

if you have carbon build up on any piece of equipment on the inlet side of the throttle body you're car has a serious problem.

 

you dont need to increase the size of the vacuum port. it's not flowing much and the size doesn't affect the opening or pressure on teh diaphragm.

 

use some automatic transmission fluid. It's a light(er) weight oil with good detergents that will clean it up nicely. ATF is also good to use on plastics and dashboards because it's made from conventional oil..... plastics also come from petroleum. Using stuff like Armor All, which is synthetic polymers, is actually bad to use on plastic.

Use ATF.

 

I used a really light coat of food safe silicone on the bottom of the rubber bucket. I read it was rubber safe, I checked the MSDS and no petroleum in it. I used vaseline on the shaft where there are no rubber components.

The plunger is super smooth and works perfect. I'll run it for 50 miles and see how everything holds up. I couldn't find much in the way of maintenance for it which I suppose is a good sign.