How (and why) to Ramble on your goat sideways
Boost Czar
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There was a plumbing pipe directly in the line of the switch, but the builders actually put a piece of 2x4 under it directly inline where they knew people might cut. I appreciated that -- as I used a jigsaw to cut the holes. But you can see I used my brain for once, and cut a hole in the center of the planned hole cut and pushed a shirt hanger bent into a an L shape to feel if anything was in the way just in case (2nd hole on ceiling). Luckily I did that step else I'd been covered in poo.
otherwise no hitches, smooth install, just hate filling holes.
otherwise no hitches, smooth install, just hate filling holes.
These photos remind me of an old Benny Hill sketch, where two Irishmen needed to move a hole, from one side of a yard to the other. They did it in small steps, moving the hole one metre at a time.
The photo above looks like you're moving a power point from one side of the room to the other, one metre at a time.
The photo above looks like you're moving a power point from one side of the room to the other, one metre at a time.
Boost Czar
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These photos remind me of an old Benny Hill sketch, where two Irishmen needed to move a hole, from one side of a yard to the other. They did it in small steps, moving the hole one metre at a time.
The photo above looks like you're moving a power point from one side of the room to the other, one metre at a time.
The photo above looks like you're moving a power point from one side of the room to the other, one metre at a time.
2 Props,3 Dildos,& 1 Cat
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it's a piece of sheet rock with the rock removed and paper remaining for overlapping the joint. It is screwed to a back-up board that he pre-inserted and anchored on the sides of the hole.
This way you can tightly fit the repair and cover the joint with paper so mudding is minimal and strength is retained.
presumably he removed the paper around the perimeter of the hole to keep it all flush and just screed over the gaps.
BTW Brain, that spray texture **** was a perfect match for my bathroom ceiling that I hacked up. Looks like it was never touched.
This way you can tightly fit the repair and cover the joint with paper so mudding is minimal and strength is retained.
presumably he removed the paper around the perimeter of the hole to keep it all flush and just screed over the gaps.
BTW Brain, that spray texture **** was a perfect match for my bathroom ceiling that I hacked up. Looks like it was never touched.
Next time, I'd spring for the whole $2 option.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sheetroc...2175/100321613
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sheetroc...2175/100321613
Boost Pope
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Never seen anyone cut only the gypsum portion and leave the paper intact. More accustomed to just cutting the whole plug to fit and either taping it or, you were really precise with the cut, using plaster alone.
My dad does this and it pisses me off to no end. When I cut drywall, it looks like ...(trying to invent a satisfactory simile here)...the result of trying to cut a dry, powdery, crumbly material with a jagged-toothed saw.
The only time I tried to add texture to a patched area, I laked out some joint compound with water and rolled it on with a medium-nap roller. Then primed and painted. It actually worked pretty well - much more convincing than I expected.
Boost Pope
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The way I learned it was to start with a small piece of rough-cut drywall (maybe 6" larger than you need on each side), score the cut you want to make with a utility knife and a metal ruler (cut all the way through the paper and into the gypsum, but no need to go too deep), and then just snap it over the edge of a table with a sharp, forceful motion. Same basic principle as cutting sheet glass. The backside will be a tad rough, but you'll have a perfect edge on the front side.
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https://www.homedepot.com/p/Homax-20-oz-Wall-Orange-Peel-Low-Odor-Water-Based-Spray-Texture-4092-06/100154309
I think. hd.
2 Props,3 Dildos,& 1 Cat
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fc00::/7 was defined as the "site-local" prefix, but that got deprecated because people couldn't figure out how to define a "site". The same problem exists to a degree with NAT -- if your ISP has run out of globally routable addresses and thus using net-10 for services that they are providing to their customers, then you're going to run into problems if you want to use 10/8 for your own local stuff.
Link-local addresses really aren't the same thing.
--Ian
Link-local addresses really aren't the same thing.
--Ian
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Boost Czar
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The way I learned it was to start with a small piece of rough-cut drywall (maybe 6" larger than you need on each side), score the cut you want to make with a utility knife and a metal ruler (cut all the way through the paper and into the gypsum, but no need to go too deep), and then just snap it over the edge of a table with a sharp, forceful motion. Same basic principle as cutting sheet glass. The backside will be a tad rough, but you'll have a perfect edge on the front side.
I kept each piece of drywall I cut out as a template but purchased a sheet of 2x2' drywall.
I put the template down and traced a square that was roughly 1" large diameter on each side, then traced the template shape in the middle.
I cut the larger shape out using your method. Score the back edge of the paper-liner and then snap the drywall, then cut the front paper cleanly.
So I'm left with a perfect plug, with the drywall "tape" already in place. butter the inside edge and backside of the paper-liner and smooth it all out. the ceiling turned out very well -- there's a few little lumps but no worse than some of the existing nail pops. the texture doesn't match, so you see the bald spot.
it's just the way I've always done it. I've never liked drywall tape or that mesh stuff for patching holes. With this type of patch, you basically just have to taper the paper-liner edge.
Last edited by Braineack; 04-26-2018 at 01:59 PM.