How (and why) to Ramble on your goat sideways
One more question. If I throw out the old solder, what do I get? Used to be, I'd mosey on down to Radio Shack for anything electronic. Now, I gotta mail order and wait.
Ebay and the rest of the web is full of choices. Mostly Chinese. 63/37 tin/lead rosin core from china, or Bernzomatic electrical no lead, silver bearing rosin core, or Forney electrical repair rosin core? I would like something general purpose, for tinning wires and fixing/making various electronics around the house and shop. Suggestions are appreciated.
Ebay and the rest of the web is full of choices. Mostly Chinese. 63/37 tin/lead rosin core from china, or Bernzomatic electrical no lead, silver bearing rosin core, or Forney electrical repair rosin core? I would like something general purpose, for tinning wires and fixing/making various electronics around the house and shop. Suggestions are appreciated.
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 34,402
Total Cats: 7,523
From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
63/37 is the best choice for hand-soldering. It's still available from US suppliers such as Digikey.
That having been said, solder does not expire. If you have a half-spool of 63/37 rosin core left over from 1972, just trim an inch off the end and continue using it.
That having been said, solder does not expire. If you have a half-spool of 63/37 rosin core left over from 1972, just trim an inch off the end and continue using it.
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Senior Member
Joined: May 2007
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From: Atlanta
MG Chemicals .040" 63/37 is whats on my desk, from Frys. I also highly recommend getting MG Chemicals 8341 no clean flux paste - it'll take your soldering to the next level when you can see how straight flux reacts to a joint that's being stubborn. My 10ml tube has lasted almost 3 years, and I solder usually more than once a week. And while it doesn't expire - I can absolutely tell the difference between my 2 year old roll and my 20 year old radioshack roll.
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Lead free isn't fun to work with. You have to run your iron hotter, it doesn't flow as nicely, it's more brittle, and I'm just paranoid about tin whiskers. I get the good stuff at Grainger supply.
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Line Number 6 (AKA Air Force Uno) is for sale. You too could own the first 87 that was ok enough to sell.
https://amp-businessinsider-com.cdn....rom%20%251%24s
https://amp-businessinsider-com.cdn....rom%20%251%24s
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I would say the odds are that it is not, but there is virtually no way to be assured of that (or that anyone could know from the info presented) without further investigation. Also, be aware that sometimes little walls like that can be positioned there to hide plumbing, electrical, and/or duct work, so even if it is not load bearing, it may still be somewhat "critical" in nature. Is there any nearby access to the whatever is above the ceiling and or directly below the floor surrounding the wall?
.02
.02
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Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Fake Virginia
Walls like that are hiding my hvac ducting, main sewer, vent, etc. and it makes it a huge pain in my tuchus to open concept-ize my 1940 built house. Goddamn New Deal.
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I'd agree; that is quite likely the case, although it still is not 100% conclusive for a point load, such as a post hiding inside the wall, where simply landing on a doubled floor joist with a pier/girder/other support directly underneath it works. This is why it's still good to look both above and below.
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
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It looks like there is a hole already in the wall with a wire or something coming out of it. If it is open to the cavity, he could feel around with a coat hanger and or one of those cheap inspection cameras. Alternatively, drilling a small hole in each stud cavity to inspect it leaves an easier repair job than wholesale removal of the rock. (i.e I hate taping repaired rock)
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