no pics, no care.

The greatest paradox of being a roadcourse enthusiast: The more you like driving your car on a track, the more likely you are to drive a truck every day.


I don't want to drive a truck everyday. :(

Does the battery wire run to he starter first, or is there a junction along the way in a '99?

I bought enough 35mm wire to giftwrap the car. I will be redoing the battery and alternator connections. My plan was to leave the stock wires in place and just run the 35mm red wire from B+ to the starter terminal, and then to the alternator.
The black wire will run from B- to the chassis, then to the PPF.
I already have a 50mm copper wire between the block and the chassis.

Would that be feasible?

Edit: I will be installing a 100 or 120 Amp alternator, as well.

In the NB, the heavy black wire from B+ goes directly to the large stud on the starter. A second black wire then runs from this point to the 80A Main fuse. After the Main fuse, the White wire runs directly to the alternator.

The key concept here is that the Main fuse is between the alternator and the battery. Beyond that, it does not matter how the wiring is run- whether the wire that feeds the main fuse comes from the starter or goes all the way back to the battery.

(Note that within the fuse panel, the black wire also feeds HEAD fuse and the FUEL INJ fuse directly. This will be obvious when you are looking at the underside of the fuse panel- they are all connected together internally.)

Broadly speaking, this is what the wires you are speaking of look like:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1366665623


In the NA, the arrangement is different. There is a separate wire which runs from the fuse block directly back to the battery, independent of the starter. In theory, this design is slightly more robust, as the rest of the car (particularly the engine management system) will not be affected by voltage drop across the starter wire while the starter is in operation. I have never measured this voltage myself, but I assume that it must be at least a few hundred mv.

So, make a connection between the B+ and the starter stud, and then replace the white wire running from the starter to the main fuse panel with 35mm wire, then do the same after the 80A main fuse, all the way to the alternator?

And, since the 80A fuse will be incorporated in the charging scheme, it would only make sense to upgrade it to 100 or 120A with the new alternator, I guess.

I also ordered a 100A main relay.

Apparently, the cake is no longer a lie:

Look at the bright side - you get to do it again in about 8 hours. You should look for the Billy Connolly bit about it, pretty funny except for the it's-true-and-happening-to-me part.

Just had mine about a month ago. It was swell.

Trackday HPDE crash kills one, hospitalizes another with serious injuries.

More discussion about it.

Fatality @ CVR

When is the government finally going to do something about this senseless slaughter? We need stronger controls on the sale and ownership of racecars to prevent this kind of tragedy from occurring again in the future.

no, just limit HP and the amount of passengers you can carry.

Why am I now shopping mountain bikes?

Because common sense.

Because moar fun.

Dual suspension 26 or hard-tail 29er?

Hard-tail 26. Best selection of aftermarket parts.

How much energy do I lose on a dual suspension bike? Dual suspension bikes sure look a lot more comfy.

Dual suspension anything (26, 650B, 29er) rocks. The crap I can get away with on my Turner blows my freakin mind.

What's the cheapest 29" dual suspension bike worth buying?

This is looking like the best 29" hard-tail value out there.

Are you riding on pavement or on dirt? (I'm confused by a dual-suspension 26 and a 29 of any type being mentioned in the same sentence.)

Both of my daily-drivers have been hardtail 26s. I run moderately sized rubber (26x1.75) at 70-80 PSI, and have no problems at all with a 5-6 mile ride on reasonably paved roads, even at 25 MPH. I *do* have a nice, comfy saddle (sprung and padded) in place of the ball-destroyer that comes as standard equipment on most MTBs.