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Old 05-23-2009, 08:18 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by hustler View Post
i know its 10mm, but is it 1.25 or 1.5 thread pitch, and how long should they be exactly? I have zero room for error with the gt2860rs flange because its so close to the housing that the studs almost touch the round part.

the bolts holding the turbo to the manifold and downpipe are loosening. I looked at the stage8 website and it looks like I can only get 8mm bolts in sets of 4 or 10...anyone want to go in halvsies on downpipe/turbo bolts?
Buy 4. The BEGi DP pipes are so close to the nuts that you can only fit the stage 8 eccentric on 3 of the 5 nuts anyway.
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Old 05-23-2009, 11:55 PM   #22
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well you didnt say your studs where comming out some real loctite will pwn that the safety wire, will secure your nuts and is a good idea i just find the nord locks as reliable and a good bit more convenient. We use them on the pressess for millions of impressions and they hold up just fine.
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Old 05-24-2009, 02:32 AM   #23
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Congrats on finally getting your *** out there.

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Anyone know the thread pitch and length I need to get "stage 8" BOLTS for the turbo-maniold, and turbo-downpipe?
Won't solve issues if you are fast.

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Originally Posted by magnamx-5 View Post
grab some nord lock washers for your mani man and you will be fine.
Lol. Nord locks = fail.

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no one here has more track time than savington, so I'm going his route. if I could get a long enough drill bit to drill the **** I have now, I'd just safety wire it in place.
More track time? Or more track time in a turbo miata?

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my studs are backing out, not the bolts. I need to fix it one time, and never **** with it again.
If you stop your studs from turning, they will end up coming straight out and just taking off the threads.

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well you didnt say your studs where comming out some real loctite will pwn that the safety wire, will secure your nuts and is a good idea i just find the nord locks as reliable and a good bit more convenient. We use them on the pressess for millions of impressions and they hold up just fine.
Lol @ loctite holding up to that kind of temperature. Nord locks will not solve turbo-manifold issues for seriously tracked cars.
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Old 05-24-2009, 06:16 AM   #24
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@crashncar: so what will? I have copper coated nuts and the seem to have held up during the last track day, however that is the second set of studs and nuts that went in.

I do know that a resonating downpipe against the subframe @4krpm is a good recipe for it all to resonate loose.
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Old 05-24-2009, 06:52 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by magnamx-5 View Post
grab some nord lock washers for your mani man and you will be fine.


Quote:
Originally Posted by magnamx-5 View Post
some real loctite will pwn that the safety wire, will secure your nuts and is a good idea i just find the nord locks as reliable and a good bit more convenient.


Nordlocks? ******* Loctite? LOL. My Stage 8s came loose on the DP and the safety-wired turbo manifold came loose too. I think I'm actually pulling the studs through the threads of the manifold.

I honestly don't know whether it's possible to fix this issue without orienting the turbo differently.
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Old 05-24-2009, 07:06 AM   #26
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Spot welding?
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Old 05-24-2009, 01:05 PM   #27
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Just get an setup full o' V-bands and you'll be set.
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Old 05-24-2009, 01:26 PM   #28
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Yeah, I destroyed the 8mm hardware on the manifold->turbo last year. I upgraded to 10mm hardware and have not had any problems since.

I do have to laugh, when I was replacing the manifold, a few people told me to use loctite on the new hardware...and then they were perplexed when I just laughed at them. I would ask "do you have any idea where these studs and nuts are? They are on a friggin turbo!"....they still didn't get why I was laughing at them.

Congrats Hustler... and yes, I do know all about throttle steering
I'm hoping to make it out to Road Atlanta next weekend... but it depends if I was scammed by a CR member or not.
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Old 05-24-2009, 02:11 PM   #29
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just put hot-glue on it.
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Old 05-24-2009, 02:53 PM   #30
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I have a flange leak on mine as well; it was leaking a tiny bit before the event but it is definitely worse now. I believe it is the 5-bolt turbine exit flange. The turbo is coming out anyway so I'll be looking at safety wire or some other locking device. V-bands would be the ultimate though hard to do with a IWG and a SGDP. It would be very nice though to get rid of the T25 flange and put a v-band there. ATP has turbine housings available like this, though they do not have a IWG 5-bolt exit flange.

Loctite, agreed, no way. Even the 640 and 668 come apart at 200C-250C, not nearly hot enough.
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Old 05-24-2009, 06:48 PM   #31
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My turbo to manifold is leaking too. So, Stage8 doesnt work, nor does safety wire. Now what?!
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Old 05-24-2009, 07:27 PM   #32
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FWIW I pulled out the turbo today. The self-clinching fasteners on the DP flange (5-bolt) were holding onto the stud tight; in fact, when I removed them, the whole stud came out, so the stud-to-turbo threads are the weak link.

The self-clinching fasteners on the T25 flange bolts all appear to be tight still.

The way the military does it, at least the Air Force, is the studs get mechanically staked into the holes once they are installed. No way they will ever come out again; it is permanent. Here is an example. The picture is tiny, but you can see the stakes that are driven in once the stud is screwed into place. Many moons ago I redesigned an Air Force gear box that used this style stud.
SPS Technologies - Products
Then the bolts that go on the studs are safety wired together in pairs.

I am not sure why stainless safety wire would not work? I am considering using safety wire drilled socket head cap screws in place of the stud/nut combo, and safety wiring the heads together. If the screw is closely matched to the flanges for CTE, it seems like it should all hold together. Socket heads could also make assembly easier.
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Old 05-24-2009, 07:47 PM   #33
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Just like the nord washers (which I'm not sure why I suggested, since they're not working for me either) I'd be afraid the heat cycling on the safety wire would make it brittle and it would snap.

We need to find something that actually works for track cars besides all of us switching to v-bands. I'm tired of loosing power halfway through a trackday, then ripping everything apart and tightening it again and again.
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Old 05-24-2009, 10:11 PM   #34
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I talked to jeremy from FM today about the stage8 bolts and he said to torque the stud in and use the stage8 and they'll hold so I'm going to order a set on tuesday. I'm also going to get their 8mm stuffs for the downpipe and hope for the best. I'll cut them if I must but I want this **** to hold together.
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Old 05-25-2009, 01:54 AM   #35
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Any picture coverage?
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Old 05-25-2009, 02:52 AM   #36
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I've heard of using grease at the turbo to manifold joint because it turns to carbon and fills the gaps...but i don't see how it wouldn't blow out. Maybe I can resurface the the flanges, let it idle for a while, then turn the heat up.

It leaked before until it warmed up...man this sucks. Now I know why VW makes the manifold and turbine housing one piece.
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Old 05-25-2009, 03:12 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spookyfish View Post
@crashncar: so what will? I have copper coated nuts and the seem to have held up during the last track day, however that is the second set of studs and nuts that went in.

I do know that a resonating downpipe against the subframe @4krpm is a good recipe for it all to resonate loose.
Welding the mani to turbo, or v-band. You must not be driving very hard if they are holding up.

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Spot welding?
+1 (I think, haven't actually tried it but how could this go wrong?)

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Just get an setup full o' V-bands and you'll be set.
WIN.

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Originally Posted by Doppelgänger View Post
Yeah, I destroyed the 8mm hardware on the manifold->turbo last year. I upgraded to 10mm hardware and have not had any problems since.
You aren't driving hard enough if 10mm hardware is holding up.

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Originally Posted by hustler View Post
I talked to jeremy from FM today about the stage8 bolts and he said to torque the stud in and use the stage8 and they'll hold so I'm going to order a set on tuesday. I'm also going to get their 8mm stuffs for the downpipe and hope for the best. I'll cut them if I must but I want this **** to hold together.
Good luck, but I wouldn't count on that as a permanent solution.
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Old 05-25-2009, 07:17 AM   #38
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I am going to investigate in welding turbo and manifold together...
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Old 05-25-2009, 10:01 AM   #39
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Did a bit of searching today, and Nissan is using lock plates or locking plates from the factory for their turbo's:
sr20det turbo mani locking plate?? - FreshAlloy.com Forums
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Old 05-25-2009, 10:02 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crashnscar View Post
Welding the mani to turbo, or v-band. You must not be driving very hard if they are holding up.
True, and there are indeed loose over one track event.
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