i finally put the miata on the track!
Elite Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,054
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From: Enschede, NL
The votes are in:
Non-OEM turbo under race conditions: welding or die!
Hi,
yes it was the only thing that lasted under race conditions...
all the types of fasteners I tried eventually failed..
Non-OEM turbo under race conditions: welding or die!
Originally Posted by E-mail reply from the guy from the pictures below
Hi,
yes it was the only thing that lasted under race conditions...
all the types of fasteners I tried eventually failed..
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
Congrats to hustler for getting it on track.
Stein- I think there's an immense difference between beating a turbo car to death on the street vs. beating the same car on the track. The track is just 10x more grueling.
fwiw - Here's a solution from Percy - the Split Lock header hardware
Stein- I think there's an immense difference between beating a turbo car to death on the street vs. beating the same car on the track. The track is just 10x more grueling.
fwiw - Here's a solution from Percy - the Split Lock header hardware
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oh and i dont think welding it is a good idea, seems like a jimmy-rig.
what if ur turbo fails? what if u want to upgrade? u need to replace everything.
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Elite Member
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Enschede, NL
Studs also provide more accurate and consistent torque loading. Here's why. When you use bolts to secure the head, the fastener is actually being "twisted" while its being torqued tot he proper reading. Accordingly, the bolt is reacting to two different forces simultaneously. A stud should be installed in a relaxed mode - never crank it in tightly using a jammed nut. if everything is right, the stud should be installed finger tight. Then, when applying torque to the nut, the stud will stretch only in the vertical axis. Remember, an undercut shorter stud will have a rate similar to a longer, standard shank stud. This provides a more even clamping force on the head. Because the head gasket will compress upon initial torquing, make sure studs and bolts are re-torqud after the engine has been run.
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Not really. Making it so that the nuts don't come off isn't so hard. The hard part is making sure the studs don't come out of the manifold. It's also easy to make the studs not twist out, but once some of you actually drive hard, you will find that the studs just come straight out of the manifold, no twisting or anything. Simply shearing the threads off of the stud.
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/thread
Elite Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,054
Total Cats: 14
From: Enschede, NL
Not really. Making it so that the nuts don't come off isn't so hard. The hard part is making sure the studs don't come out of the manifold. It's also easy to make the studs not twist out, but once some of you actually drive hard, you will find that the studs just come straight out of the manifold, no twisting or anything. Simply shearing the threads off of the stud.
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I did not have problems with self-clinching nuts coming loose from the studs. So I would think that tack-welding the studs in place would be enough. Bend-tab nut plates and safety wire could be used on the nuts for extra insurance. That way it can still be disassembled without grinding.
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That's what I'm saying. Because we are asking our flange studs/bolts to do more than just clamp the turbo down. Our problems come from a variety of side loads, vibrations, heat, improper sized holes, wrong material, improper torquing, poorly supported exhaust system, excessive motor twist, ect. I think 8 and even 10mm are just too small for what we are asking them to do.
If you are having issues with the threads shearing off the stud you likely need more thread area. Increasing the diameter, pitch, alloy and length may resolve your issue.
Of course there is the possibility that there is just too much going on and welding the turbo to the manifold is the final solution, but I think most of us would like to avoid that.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
I talked to FM about this on Sunday. They said they considered it because its a good idea, but they chose backward compatibility. If I had known what I know now, 2 years ago, I'd have v-bands and a tubular manifold.
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Well, talked to ya Friday, but wanted to post here and just say "I love it when a plan comes together!"
Glad it's all you'd thought it would be and then some.
Now we just need to get mine boosted and I'll be in the same boat. I'm to the point, where I just don't think there's much left in my car where it stands now.
Glad it's all you'd thought it would be and then some.
Now we just need to get mine boosted and I'll be in the same boat. I'm to the point, where I just don't think there's much left in my car where it stands now.
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