DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

Chain catcher is always cheap insurance.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

It's rained for two days, will I ruin my kit in the CX race tonight?

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Soon:

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

Two things.

1. Rinse as much of the mud out before you wash it with detergent. In other words, don't let it dry out before it gets washed.

2. use rewash to make damn sure you get the money out on the first try. Anything that does not come out on the first try will be set in.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Thanks.
I just read some **** from Powers' mechanic saying they just lightly apply the power-washer to the kit and it's comes-out miraculously clean. I suppose I'll just stop by the coin-op car wash on the way home and clean the kit and the bike.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

White Industries can get me new axle parts in two weeks, lol. Two ******* weeks. I asked them to pull-apart a hub in stock and send me the parts and they were unwilling. This is ******* retarded. Why did I buy these POS wheels again? I should have bought-up another set of Zipps I guess. It seems like every wheel and hub has problems.

How have I broken three rear hubs in roughly 6 months? OMFG.

dcamp2

iTrader: (4)

it's because you insist on running trendy expensive bullshit hubs.


that sucks they don't have warranty parts... 2 weeks in the bike industry really means 'we have no clue when the next shipment is coming'.

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

reccomendations?

shimano?

hustler

iTrader: (6)

For some reason I was one of the few people who could not get mud to shed from the tire last night:

The bike probably weighed 45+lb with that mud, the Park Tool scale stopped at 40lb.

dcamp2

iTrader: (4)

^Gross... did you try and use PAM cooking spray on the rims/frame tubes? that can help shed mud (although that looks sticky enough that probably nothing would help).


For hubs- yes Shimano's are great. They aren't the lightest, loudest or best at anything, but will never cause issues.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

These are supposed to have a super-good reputation and were the same price as Dura-Ace hubs. They also weren't an option when I ordered wheels. It sucks that I'd have to run cone-bearings, but I'll take that if they are the most reliable option I guess. My other cone-bearing hub wheels ride like ****.
Supposedly they make every part other than the bearings in-house. I am not sure I believe that now.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I didn't know about the Pam thing until I got there. I wonder if the stays and fork are too skinny for the mud?

Reliability is #1 for me, lol @ people who spend thousands on hubs/wheels so make annoying sounds.

dcamp2

iTrader: (4)

I wouldn't worry about the cone bearings... If they are Dura-Ace and adjusted properly I'm sure they will be smooth. Shimano does one thing well. Quality.

I learned about PAM in West Virgina at a mtb race. It was like riding through peanut butter. I think our DH bikes would weigh like 60lbs at the end of a run. Not sure PAM would last for an entire CX race, but it worked well on a 4 minute DH run.

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

I would have expected the Whites to be quite good. I have a pair of Disc verisons on my commuter, and have not touched them. However, your CX abuse might be much more than my riding.

You know that I'm a Campy guy, but you also know that I suggested Shimano hubs for you some time back.

The Zipps are an interesting set-up to me: adjustable cartridge bearings. But tiny bearings for hubs.

Tell me why you don't like DT Swiss hubs. Lots of Paris Roubaix pros use them. You called them, "poverty", but I don't really know what that means.

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

go faster, mud will fly :P

y8s

iTrader: (8)

Opti-coat everything:

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I know, but going straight down a crazy-steep levee wouldn't do it, nor would 20mph in the parking-lot.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

These are on my road bike. They only have 2500 miles.
I know, and I thought I could get away from cone bearings and still get the reliability, I know I was wrong now.
Zipp is dumb. The bearing thrust adjustment is so incredibly difficult to get perfect, and required frequent adjustment. I didn't like how no replacement parts were available and their solution to a cracked spoke bed was to buy another set of wheels that they won't sell replacement parts. The bearings in my Zipp rear hub had some weird pick-up on them and felt rough. Regardless, they are gone now.
I was joking, I know they're good. They are $600 for the pair and require special tools for service, but probably better than what I bought. I'm sure the pros use something fancy that we can't get or they use 180s that are even more money.

I bought the White Industries hubs because they appears to be well engineered and reliable, I like the way they are serviced with regular tools, liked the big axle and over-sized bearings, liked that replacement parts were remarkably cheap, and really liked the Ti freehub body. Oh, they are red too, which is cool. Again, I realize that I should have probably gone with Shimano DA or DT hubs. My next set of CX wheels will probably be Shimano MTB 135mm hubs. For now, I'll ride the CX bike for the rest of the winter until I can score new road wheels. The local Performance Bike has a front 6800 wheel for $200 I may go buy today, I'll have to come up with a rear.

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

Buy from England or France if you can live without warranty. This is where I get my tires, usually 4000S, but last order I am trying some Schwalbe One's. Got here within 10 days, I think a week. That is typical shipping time.

xxcycle

Well, still $500.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Trey broke his T11s, one of my road bros broke his R45 free hub in half, literally. Nothing is sacred.