Both are typically 1/2" pitch (distance between teeth), the width is what varies.

 

William's new ride. Looks like a 2014 C'dale Rush 2.

 

BTW, those Maddux wheels, without the brake discs, weigh 2400g. lolol

 

My next MTB will have full suspension. Getting beat to death on trails.

 

What's a good 1 1/8 ,thread less, external cup, sealed bearing, headset for a poverty Huffy? I'm converting the $5 fork to a better thread less air fork. Looking to stay in the $30 range.

 

I'm honestly not sure if that would be easy or not, as I've never tried it. It'd mean I'd still have to use a cable to operate it, which is a minus as I'd then need to use something like that fancy slider-thingy in order to keep the left handlebar clear for the clutch lever.



Gotcha. I knew that BMXs had their own chain standard, didn't realize that cruisers and MTBs differed in this regard.



(Slaps self on forehead.)

Of course you are correct. I'd need to lose both derailleurs.

I'll be honest, there's a part of me that questions whether a rear brake is even necessary. I mean, I figuratively never use the thing when I'm riding a motorcycle. I may simply be over-thinking this.



Something like that.

I'm gonna be moving out into the 'burbs soon, and riding on streets that don't have a bike lane. My current setup won't do 45 MPH, which is about what I'd need to safely ride among traffic.

 

Joe, are there regenerative braking options for the electric motor setups you're looking at? If you use a normal free wheel on the pedal size and use the brake rotor mount for the electric sprocket and have a regen braking option in the motor controller you'll at least get some rear brake.

 

To the first question, I imagine you could use a short brake lever clocked below the clutch like motocross riders do some times.

As far as not running a rear brake, I would be hard pressed to be convinced that brakes should be run without a backup.... Stopping is pretty important, and while I've never had a brake system fail in a situation that would have caused me harm, I've also never had a parachute fail to open, but I would still carry a spare when I jumped out of an air plane on purpose...

 

could you not add a spacer and the gear to the disc brake and have both?

might be tight to fit, but then you have good disc rear, no wheel changing and you can add your presumably chain driven electric motor.

I wouldn't go without a rear brake on a heavy eletrobike in traffic at 45mph.

 

That crazy EBike that was lapping at laguna seca that I posted somewhere only seemed to have a front brake, but it also looked like it used moto grade brake bits for the brake, consider that, that bike looked like it was hitting about 80mph, that might be overkill for joe.

 

It's hard as **** to find a set of "do it all" wheels for my cross bike. I want something I can use with a 30mm road tire using road pressure, wider and ~45psi for gravel, and ~35psi fro CX. Stan's wheels have a max pressure of 45psi so that leaves me in need of a road wheelset.

The wheels that came with the bicycle are shamefully heavy with cone bearings and miserable, awful engagement on the free-hub.

 

get some wide carbon clincher wheels (29er) from ebay and lace to some mtb hubs.

 

25mm Width Disc Brake HUB 38mm Clincher Carbon Cyclocross Bike Wheelset | eBay

 

I do not understand the cannondale thing if i'm honest. They make some decent bikes but for the price you can get twice the bike elsewhere.

ie norco, rocky mountain, banshee, trek even

Cdale makes some nice road bikes and a few good xc race bikes... but other than that there isn't anything in their line or bike fabrication that i see that makes them worth the price of admission.

 

I need a good shoe recommendation, preferably something that I won't also snap in half after ~2800 miles.

Right, snapped it walking around in the garage after my ride this morning:


Left, well on its way to the same thing:

 

I have about 4 years on my Specialized Pro road shoes. Just replaced straps and buckles in last few months. Otherwise, no issues. Sidi Genius 5 and Spec Pro are the two shoes I know of that come in narrow sizes, which I need. Others have had good success with the Spec S-Works, but $$$, and not in narrow.

 

 

I'm not sure that I trust my life to China-crabon fibber.

I was thinking about these: http://www.cyclocrossworld.com/SRAM-x-9-disc-wheelset

 

Any bros want to pedal Big Cedar?

Not me, lol

 

What brand/model/age?

Sidi's fit my feet and what I have raced offroad with forever. They have proven quite bombproof. My current road shoes are Shimano SH-R315's, now superceded by the R320. Expensive but uber light and designed to be thermally fitted to your foot by an LBS with the right equipment. Many cycling shoe makers offering thermal or custom fit shoes now so the oven, training and fitting equipment is easy to find these days.