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As a man who drive a miata, I do agree that Function over form all the way... but the pinkbike reader in me thinks getting pictures of you on that website in a skinsuit, is a recipe for disaster lol.
If I win a bike or car race, I don't care what I look like. Sleek and sexy is nice but winning more is better.
My observation from looking at all the pics is just that enduro riders in general appear to be (from a non-expert POV) giving up valuable watts to look more stylish. As a guy that trains my *** off, fusses over equipment selection and buries myself in competition, I just have a hard time wrapping my head around it. That would be like running too low a ride height on a race car because it's looks more stylish. Just doesn't compute. That said, I totally get why enduro racers run flappy gear. It's a different mindset. More relaxed, bro-tique. Doesn'ttake anything away from the athletic accomplishment. The best pro enduro guys would do well in XC races, they are bad asses.
Very true. and the baggies offer some extra storage and protection from crashing. Besides- it's currently a level playing field, everyone looks/dresses similarly. If we all went skin suit, we'd look stupid and be at the same level playing field where the fast guys still win
Originally Posted by EErockMiata
What back protector is that? I've got a POC one that I like, but it doesn't have storage. @dcamp2
There's a lot of other things that need to happen for me to gain 26 seconds. More fitness, not messing up during race runs, bringing a good spare front tire etc.
Again- if the top guys were also wearing skin suits we'd be in the exact same finishing order, everyone would have gone 5-10s faster. I agree with you they are faster, but I'm not going to be the twad at an enduro race wearing a skin suit.
I rode my bike last night for the first time in 75 days. Did 12 miles and 1400' of climbing. I felt good and my back wasn't too angry about it. Stoked!
New cross bike. 100% OEM as shown. Decided to leave my current Van Dessel in 2x11, 40c gravel bike config. Been racing the last few years with a MTB as my "B" bike. In cross, you are allowed to switch bikes if you have a flat or mechanical. Courses are designed to pass by pits twice per lap. Races are short so having a spare bike can be critical. I plan to go to cross nationals in Reno this year where MTB's are not allowed.
2018 Giant TCX Advanced 2. Rival 1 group. 19.4's w/o pedals or tubes. Frame is freaky light. Bars, seat, wheels (2050g) and cranks (799g) are all anchors. Should be close to 17lbs with those bits replaced. Forgive the funky seat and bar angle. First ride around the lot last night..
Rival 1x shifts nice. Was going to swap for Shimano but I think this group is better for cross. Very positive shifting over bumpy ground.
Let me know when you're done with those Rival shifters, as they feel like ****, so I can put them on the CX bike I'm building for the GF. There is easily an entire pound to save in switching from that crank to something reasonable. I 100% agree that SRAM clutched RDs are the way to go for CX; my Stig has tumbled down the side of a levee in a race, among other catastrophes and the chain is always on the gears I left it, pretty impressive.
Sadly, my Stigmata-C weighs the same with 1500g wheels, aluminum bars, and one bottle cage.
Regarding bottle cages on a CX bike, I ******* hate it, a lot, but it's sometimes 95*f during Texas CX season and that seat-tube bottle keeps some pressure of my plated-arm. That's important because I am that ******* who may possible nudge the frame off a guy's shoulder. lol
New climbing bike, 17' Cannondale SuperSix Evo
14.8 lbs with pedals, cages and Garmin mount. Dura Ace 9100 Di2. Ridefast 3.5 wheels set up with 25c Schwalbe Pro One tubeless. 52/36 x 11-30 same as the S3 disc. Crushed a PR on a steep 6 minute local climb on my first ride. Yay.
My 55mm light bicycle parts showed up earlier this week. I must say, Light bicycle's customer support is pretty awesome. Besides a standard build front wheel with CXrays, they sent me the proper length/qty spokes and nipples for me to lace to a Powertap G3, for much much less than individual CXRays go for here in the states, let alone a bag of 20 x 2 that all LBS' could supply. However, the 14mm sapim nipples they sent (and used on the front wheel) have dimples in them that grab the spoke thread, making it more of a pain in the *** to lace. I have spoke prep, let me rely on that please.
I used the Conti GP4KS2 from Hustler. They went on sooo much easier than the Specialized tires thank the gods holy ****. I only have 15 miles on them but initially, at same pressure they seem to ride smoother. Tire weights are the same, same tubes. While I did not get any segment PR's, I did get my highest average speed on my typical 30 min loop. Overall the bike gained a little under .25lbs compared to the 38mm set.
Cause you all aren't getting tired of seeing my bike:
Todays ride in the Santa Monica mtns. 8500' in 67 miles.
Actually planned to ride the Cervelo but like a knucklehead I left it leaning against the wall Perma shifting and ran the di2 battery down. I do love the stiffness and acceleration of the Supersix Evo though. Climbs like a goat even when I'm tired
When Trey has a set of new Schwalbe pro ones to sell I'll buy them. I'll try them at some point.
My tire/tube/tape combos weigh equivalent or less to the Pro one/sealant/valve stems anyway. I don't think the tubeless would be much faster on my roads but maybe. It's certainly easier to deal with if you get a large puncture* and you know this.
*I don't have the miles most of you have, but I've yet to get a flat. I run on the shoulder where the crap is, to the annoyance of some in my ride group (tough ****, I'd rather risk a flat than become a pancake). I also run higher pressures than some of you, 85/95. Tried lowering them but it is not for me on my bike. Lower PSI was better on the Van Dessel though.
How much sealant do you run on your road tubless? you prefer orange sealant over the stans, why, besides the color?
More miles on the Continentials. Definitely feel faster and ride smoother than the Specialized Turbos.
My tire/tube/tape combos weigh equivalent or less to the Pro one/sealant/valve stems anyway. I don't think the tubeless would be much faster on my roads but maybe. It's certainly easier to deal with if you get a large puncture* and you know this.
Tubeless have the lowest rolling resistance. Apples to apples, they roll faster.
Tubeless setups are always lighter than a tubed setup, assuming the same model of tire. Sealant weighs less than a tube.
I carry a spare tube on longer rides in case I get a deep cut in a tire. A few times a month I see a little bit of sealant on the seat tube on one of the bikes indicating a self healed puncture. I have yet to need to stop during a ride to "fix" anything, other than Dirty Kanza where I chose too light a tire and cut the sidewall.
Tubeless have the lowest rolling resistance. Apples to apples, they roll faster.
Tubeless setups are always lighter than a tubed setup, assuming the same model of tire. Sealant weighs less than a tube.
I carry a spare tube on longer rides in case I get a deep cut in a tire. A few times a month I see a little bit of sealant on the seat tube on one of the bikes indicating a self healed puncture. I have yet to need to stop during a ride to "fix" anything, other than Dirty Kanza where I chose too light a tire and cut the sidewall.
Resistance is futile.
Is there a tubeless tire that measures 25mm on an 18mm IW rim with grip equal to or exceeding a GP4K?
07-11-2017, 05:44 PM
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I'll try them at some point. 
