?

 

I'm thinking I spin too much and need to learn to make torque.

 

Every change makes you faster. Placebo effect.

 

I'm thinking you don't spin enough and need to learn to make power.

 

I'm so out of shape.

I was heavy into riding about 10-15 years ago. My focus was mountain biking, but I'd ride my mountain bike everywhere, up to 55+ miles in a day. Downhilling, cross-country, road, I did a bit of whatever my skills allowed. I almost got into racing, but the parents didn't support it, and at the time I had no other way to get to the races. Then I stopped for more than 5 years, only taking the bike out occasionally for a little ride.

I finally decided to get back into it, and it's humbling. I went on a 10 mile ride today, and was exhausted by the end. It's funny; much of the muscle memory is still there, but I just run out of steam. In some ways, riding a bike really is just like riding a bike.

I mention this because I was thinking about spinning on my ride today, too. I'm of the opinion that the faster you can do it smoothly, the better off you are. It's easier on the knees, it's efficient, it lets you stay in the saddle using your larger leg muscles longer, and in the case of a tight switchback, if ever a sudden hill catches you off-guard, you're still in a low enough gear to muscle through.

I don't believe you need a fixie to get better at this, though. Just run a lower gear or two than feels "comfortable" on your regular bike. Once you get used to that, go another gear lower.

OT but slightly related: my new bike came with (non-clipless) platform pedals. I always used to ride clipless, and I'm finding I got lazy with certain mountain-bike-specific handling skills like bunny-hopping or generally finagling the rear wheel over and around things. I'm enjoying the practice, but it's again humbling in showing me how badly I've grown to suck at certain things over the years of my laziness. One thing I'm not sure about: will going to platforms temporarily help or hurt me in developing a smoother pedal stroke? Sooner or later I do plan on getting some Time ATACs (if they still make those) or similar.

Completely off topic: Holy hamsterballs has bike suspension come a long way in the last 15 years! My new 6" travel bike is a relative rocket (relative to being 29 lbs on 2.2" tires) on the road. Even without using the lockout, the thing doesn't bob, and feels as snappy as my old hardtail did. But hit something and it just soaks it up.

 

um, shift up?

Fixies allow you no rest. You have no bail out gear, you just go home. In pain.

In cycling its referred to as "force". And yes there are specific type of intervals for it. Generally it's seated climbing on a shallow grade at 50-75rpm at wattage just past your threshold. Form is key here. Do it sloppily and you mess up your knees. These drills will also build core strength. Focus on applying torque through a bit more of the pedal stroke than you do when spinning normally at 85-95rpm. First time you do these, don't go crazy with the wattage. Maybe just 50-100 over threshold for a minute or so. Once you have done these sets 2-3x a week for two weeks, you can start upping the force and duration. Higher the force, the shorter the duration. For road racing, you don't need to be awesome at 60rpm pedaling. If you race MTB or particularly, cyclocross, it's key. Being able to churn out ~500w @ 50rpm for 15s through a sand/mud bog twice a lap for an hour is make or break at the front. It hurts just thinking about it. Damn I miss 'cross.

 

Thanks, balleur.

 

Rediscovering MTB. There's good singletrack within biking distance of my house, come to find out.

inb4 lol @: luggage, Specialized, stem.

 

just bought some inline barrel adjusters so I can finally adjust my front derailleur to shift well. hope it works.

Raised my seat and went for a ride. AVG speed went up, even though I went on a harder ride (more hills than normal).

Disassembled my front derailleur last night to the point where the only pivot left was the pressed pin and that seems to be where I am having issues with extra tension. Going to keep oiling it and see where I can go from there. If not, the LBS Ive been using has a matching 6600 Ultegra FD for me.










So happy to be riding. Already have dropped 3lbs, even after an all inclusive trip down south.

 

nice.


Does that fender do anything besides keep mud out of your face? Your legs to your waist line would still be covered, but at that point diesnt the downtube just absorb the big mud flings?

(I don't ride in mud anymore, I forget.)

 

I ran one of those front fenders when we winter rode. I also ran a down tube fender and seat post fender. You still get dirty it just stops a lot of the face / mouth dirt. Dog poo, oily water etc. does not taste very good (I'm told).

 

Out in Ft. Ord/BLM space?

The last time I was out there on a bike I got chased my MPs in a jeep. Did they finally get all the UXO cleared out?

 

Most of it's gone, they just haven't taken the threatening signs down yet.

Fender is kinda left over from this bike's time as an e-bike. It was very necessary in the rain at 40 mph. But on the trails, not really necessary. I suppose it does keep the bottles a bit cleaner.

 

Looks like it's time to change some parts. Is there any reason not to change from the current 42-32-24 fronts and 11-32 rear cogs? 90% of my rides are on the 42 front blade and gears 4-7 on the rear. I've futzed around a little on gearing calculators, but I have zero idea what I'm looking at

Looking to replace the bent shimano acero on the back too, recommendations that don't break the bank?

And yes, I know it's filthy.

 

get another gear/ rear derailleur that has the same amount of speeds, otherwise your replacing the shifters on top of the chain/gear/derailleur.

On that note: if you wanted a wider range or a tighter spread between gears, this is the time to do it because you will be doing most of the drivetrain as is( ....just make sure your freehub can handle more gears.)

The chainrings up front don't matter as much, considering they look like they are in ok shape. Only upgrade those if you have a purpose.

This wouldn't be a bad deal for a rebuild kit for you if you wanted to go 10 speed.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2014-Sram-X9...item258d52f69f

 

Fronts are ok, I only need to make sure it actually shifts into all 3 gears. Rear is what I'm looking to change/upgrade. I'll stick with the 8 speed in the rear, just looking at ratios/derailleurs now. I figured I can do chain, rear cassette and derailleur and be set for a while.

 

Broke my Flo30 free hub for the 2nd time in the middle of nowhere, paid $600 for old Zipp101s at the shop. I scoured the internet for a better option, one was not found. Did I just burn cash? Should I have gone with the Zipp30?

 

Just rode today with the strongest wind yet, and that's coming from a city that hosted Olympic level sailing.

Spinning in the granny ring and the wind blowing me all over.

Longest (psychological) ride ever.

 

A grueling day in cross/headwinds is a rite of cycling passage. Don't complain during the ride, just pedal and you are a hard man of the sport.

 

Going on another ride later today, first ride made me kind of miss the old, cheap wheels. I have a feeling I'm going to end up selling these and building a set of R45 hubs with Flo30 hoops.

Edit:
Now with more 53/39.