EErockMiata

I'm currently using a KS i900r supernatural on my kona taro. I got it because you can scoop them up for 190 bucks or so and they are super easy to rebuild.

Dave knows more about mountain biking and mtb parts than I ever will. That being said... shy away from the early rock shock posts like he said... The remote on the rock shocks post is prob the best of all of them. The KS Lev had some issues with the cable snapping at the head of the hydro cylinder, not sure if the new one solves that. Shy away from the specialized command post units as they tend to grenade themselves permanently.

The gravity dropper are/were the gold standard in reliability but they don't have as many features and glam as the other units.

W/e you do get a 5" unit if you do lots of gnarly AM riding. And keep your stock seat post like suggested. I'll warn you tho... once you do a single ride on one of these you will not really ever go back. It's the most necessary, un-necessary piece of bike kit that exists.

99mx5

iTrader: (16)

For Hustlertron,

Feast eyes on this:



More info:
AUDI RELEASES 'WORTHERSEE' ELECTRIC BIKE | Unbiased Writer

hustler

iTrader: (6)

No.

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

That Audi bike is what happens when young, idealistic, artless engineers that have never ridden a mountain bike, try to change the world.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

That bike looks sick, besides the terrible bulges on the rims and the fact that the seat height doesnt look adjustable, and the sack cutter at the front of the seat.

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

I would ride carbon ebike that looks like a real bike. That one looks a bit like any of the pre-production demo cars vs what real production looks like.


A 30lb full suspension ebike would be pretty nutty if it could go a decent ways on a charge and not have all kinds of plastic fairings on it.

Though this is a discussion more suited to the ebike thread.

dcamp2

iTrader: (4)

Assuming a really* nice FS bike weighs 26lbs, that leaves 4lbs for battery, motor, controller, wiring? (*assuming you started with a $8000 carbon FS bike). Not gonna happen anytime soon...


I'm really hoping e-bikes get classified as motorcycles so they don't go out and screw up all our trails and cause (more) trail access issues.



Get that e-bike trash outta here!

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

Yeah, a really nice FS bike would also be built for off-road trails.

Im thinking a more urban design that could be built lighter with less travel. just something enough to take the larger pressure cracks in the Canadian roads. only need an inch of heavily sprung travel with a ~35C tire to be able to handle what Im thinking.

dcamp2

iTrader: (4)

OK, Ok- gotcha. I can get behind E-bikes being used for commuting and transport, but keep them off the trails.

Lots of companies are starting to develop real mountain e-bikes. It's going to open a can of worms in regards to trail access. Is it a motorcycle? I think so.

doward

Yep.

"NHTSA defines the term “motorcycle,” for the purpose of the statute and regulations it administers, as “a motor vehicle with motive power having a seat or saddle for the use of the rider and designed to travel on not more than three wheels in contact with ground” (49 CFR 571.3)"

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Kind of, but mopeds, like the bicycles with pedals and gas motors, dont fall under that, because there's pedals.

doward

Only in certain states. California even has moped subcatagories:
"A “motorized bicycle” is also defined as a vehicle with pedals and an electric motor (not more than 1,000 watts) which cannot be driven at speeds of more than 20 mph on level ground even if assisted by human power. (CVC §406(b))."

kotomile

iTrader: (24)

Yup. 20 mph (and/or 250/500w) is the effective cutoff point between motorized bicycle and motorcycle.

20 mph is also the difference between expensive blingy off-the-shelf e-bikes and homebrews.

Agree about trails. Who wants a heavy bike on singletrack anyway?

Oh, and I can do this now. No more borrowing the wife's car to take the bike places.

Oscar

iTrader: (2)

New chain, cassette and a new pr in pace. Derailleur needs some minor tweaks to be 100% smooth but it's way better than before.

TalkingPie

I did something stupid. Played with my Fox RP2 shock to see what was involved in a spring sleeve seal replacement, loosened the wrong bolt and let out part of the nitrogen charge. Anyone know how badly this will affect the shock's performance?

The air spring is leaking anyway, so I'm thinking about sending it off to PUSH and have them rebuild the whole thing, but the price is steep compared to just doing the air spring myself. $20 in parts vs. >$200.

Landrew

iTrader: (2)

Get a shock pump and pump it back up. Regular old free air is 70% nitrogen so it'll be fine. Perhaps you won't get 99% consistency as the shock heats but you would have to be very sensative to notice/worry about that

TalkingPie

That's good advice, but the RP2 doesn't have a fill valve; it's just a 4mm hex screw. There's a procedure online which involves installing a Ford fuel regulator part to get a valve on there, but not sure I want to go that route.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I find it hard to believe that there isnt a shrader valve with 4mm thread on it.

dcamp2

iTrader: (4)

There are two air charges in a bicycle shock- the one Leafy is thinking of is the air spring. That is always a schrader valve that you fill with a shock pump.

The other is a nitrogen charge that pressurizes the oil in the damper side. This is filled by fox at the factory using a nitrogen needle that goes through the little hole inside the 4mm allen set screw thing you just undid (see 'nitrogen chamber' in the diagram). The damper won't work well without that charge.




If you can find a part to screw into that- just use a shock pump and pump it up to like 350 or 400 and leave it alone.


I work on this stuff everyday, and sometimes we use regular air in the IFP chamber (using an adapter- probably like the ford regulator part method) instead of getting out the nitrogen tank/needle. Air will work fine, but that chamber needs some kind of gas pressure for the shock to function properly.



Also air sleeve rebuild is cake. you can do it.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

dcamp, I mean somewhere in the universe there should be a schrader valve with the proper 4mm thread on it.