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Old 06-05-2008, 10:37 PM   #1
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Default Mark Vs Stud = FAIL! 2 EX-500 Run

DAMMIT I hate stuck studs. Well I just finished my apt complex engine swap on my motorcycle. Damn thing has a broken exhaust stud... can't get it out. I tried everything I have... which isn't much.

Anyone got any bright ideas? I think it's too loud for the track with the exhaust leak... not to mention the MUZZY is shot to hell. It's louder than my SV with glasspacks.

On the up side, I have two running EX-500's, one is definitely a track only bike.

Mark
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Old 06-05-2008, 10:48 PM   #2
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Heat it with a cheapo butane torch and spray it down with PB Blaster. Repeat a few times. Let it fully cool. Then tap center of stud with a punch and hammer. This gives you a spot to center your drill bit on and helps to break the stud loose. Then drill with a small left hand bit. Drill with progressively larger left hand bits till it's close to the inside diamater of the threads, then bury the bit such that the bit hangs in the stud and screws it out.

Or break off an Easy-Out in it. Then it's impossible to drill because the easy out is harder than your drill bit or any other material known to man. (It's rumored an Easy-Out is harder than diamond...)
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Old 06-05-2008, 10:59 PM   #3
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easy out FTW, saved my *** a few times.
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Old 06-05-2008, 11:13 PM   #4
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Or break off an Easy-Out in it. Then it's impossible to drill because the easy out is harder than your drill bit or any other material known to man. (It's rumored an Easy-Out is harder than diamond...)
I have been told a masonry bit will chew its way threw a easy out. Never tried it.
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Old 06-05-2008, 11:16 PM   #5
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I have been told a masonry bit will chew its way threw a easy out. Never tried it.
Possible. With a hammer drill it just might as the easy out is so hard it would chip out.
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Old 06-05-2008, 11:28 PM   #6
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I don't think I've ever successfully used an easy out. I'm partial to cutting a slot in the stud and unscrewing it with a big screwdriver, of course with pb blaster and/or torch.
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Old 06-05-2008, 11:59 PM   #7
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Have you tried one of these? I have heard that they work well.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0070921x00003a
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Old 06-06-2008, 02:19 AM   #8
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Have you tried one of these? I have heard that they work well.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0070921x00003a
Yep, No Go... the stud remover is too big to use in there and the stud too small really, plus it's smaller than 5/16" and larger than 1/4" that the other removers are. It's really pissing me off. I need to grab a torch tomorrow... I think that's the right answer.

M
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Old 06-06-2008, 03:15 AM   #9
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Is there enough room to make 2 flat surfaces and use some vice-grips as tight as you can ******* get them? Like hurts your hand and takes both hands to clamp it down? That usually works for me.

If you can't do that and its like snapped off inside of the motor, what about drilling it with a smaller size and using an extractor? http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...4674_200264674
Those have actually worked decently for me in the past, just need to make sure you have it far enough in to actually grip on the rest of the stud and then apply force straight on it while turning it and keeping it perfectly straight. I'm pretty sure it is key to keep it straight so it actually grips in multiple spots and extracts.
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Old 06-06-2008, 09:08 AM   #10
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Would like to see a picture. Grinding/filing 2 opposing surfaces flat and grabbing them with a super tight vice grip has worked for me in the past.

<edit> uhhm, yeah the same thing he just said. whoops
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Old 06-06-2008, 09:29 AM   #11
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I can get a vice-grip on it really tight, and I thought that was gonna get the job done, but that bitch is stuck in there tight. So I am off to go get a torch and see if I can make my luck change. If not, I am gonna try a machine shop and get them to weld a nut on the damn thing and see if it will twist out.

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Old 06-06-2008, 10:38 AM   #12
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Yup, we had to weld a bolt to a locking lug nut on my car, that I had no key for. So been there too.

It's important to get atleast one flat edge on the stud to get the vice to really bite. Heat can work here too.
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Old 06-06-2008, 11:04 AM   #13
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...weld a nut on the damn thing and see if it will twist out.
that's worked for me a few times - but only with lots of pb blaster before applying torque
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Old 06-06-2008, 12:52 PM   #14
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bring it over to my house. got torch, socket style stud removers, dremel, ... no welder though, must bug brian about that.
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Old 06-06-2008, 01:47 PM   #15
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I had 2 studs heat welded on the exhaust side of the Kohler twin that I rebuilt. I tried the PB blaster to no avail. Then the HW store guy told me to heat the area around it with one of those mini-torches, and press an ice cube on the stud while it was hot. It popped, and twisted right out.
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Old 06-06-2008, 02:22 PM   #16
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Well when you grind the teeth off your vice grips, it's time to call it a day. I k-balled a bolt off my SV1000 and managed to quell the exhaust leak. Sounds almost decent now.

So here is the finished product thus far, $500 invested in this bike total I think. It has an after market suspension, flat sliders, rearset with motoGP shift pattern, and the Muzzy exhaust. Not too bad, all said, and it came with spare rims and tires.

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Mark Vs Stud = FAIL! 2 EX-500 Run-dscn0086.jpg   Mark Vs Stud = FAIL! 2 EX-500 Run-dscn0085.jpg   Mark Vs Stud = FAIL! 2 EX-500 Run-dscn0084.jpg  
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Old 06-06-2008, 06:29 PM   #17
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haha, i remember that sound. what tires do you have on there, my old one ran 100f 120r, i'd definitely want something better on the track, and it had a drum brake in the back which was way to grabby, but i see yours is disc
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