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Old 06-11-2008, 11:56 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by Vashthestampede View Post
What?

I've had my rollbar a little over two years now and never had an issue. If your worried that you might bump your little head on it, then pad it.
Vash-
I've read where people have sustained (street) injuries even w/padding

That said, what ones are preferred?

Re: Tire/Rim size, www.949racing.com seems to be doing noteworthy things under the stock fenders with their 15x8's and either 225/45 or 245/40 street tires, and even more with 15x9's, 275 Hoosiers and massaging.
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Old 06-12-2008, 12:05 AM   #42
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However I don't see the z06 guy pushing the envelope of the rules just to beat a miata.
I bet if he got beat by a Miata he would.
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Old 06-12-2008, 12:52 AM   #43
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Not really important to the topic, but today at work an 08 ZO6 came in. Bent a rear rim, so I go to do the job. Holy ****, 325/30/19. The tire and wheel were so tall they hit the arm of the machine when I got it off. That is some seriously wide rubber.
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Old 06-12-2008, 09:35 AM   #44
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if you realy want to trash him, buy a westfield kit. Tear apart your miata, or get a donor. build it up with a small turbo. presto, you have the power to weight ratio you need to make any zo6 look silly.
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Old 06-12-2008, 11:10 AM   #45
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I bet if he got beat by a Miata he would.

They start getting really comfortable with the idea once they start pricing **** out.
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Old 06-12-2008, 02:00 PM   #46
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I'm thinking you have a chance if you put in the better turbo you are considering and tune that thing properly. Get some of the new 9" 6ul's with 275 rubber. Get some better shocks that your KYB's. I've got them too but you would be better off with bilsteins or koni's. Intall a roll bar, if you are worried about the safety on the street at least get a street bar that sits back from the seats more. (Street bars don't give you as much height as race bars but they sit farther away from your head.) Lighten that thing!

All that done you might give him a run for his money. You'll have another 2-3K into your car. Nothing better than a 7k miata beating a 70k vette.
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Old 06-12-2008, 06:23 PM   #47
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**** the Westfield, I'm not looking to spend a **** ton of money here man.

I think those 15x9 6ul are the ticket for rims, but dam I hate the style of them :(

As for weight reductions, its hard to do much when I have a 40lbs butterfly brace and the big 1.8 (94+) drivetrain weighing me down to begin with. I guess I have to get creative...

BTw the race bucket I bought was to wide for the miata so now I have to sell it and find another, weaksauce.

Might have a ms pnp AND maybe a cheap hardtop coming my way though, hopefully I have enough money fo everything lol.


Dean
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Old 06-12-2008, 07:14 PM   #48
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Have you checked this out?

lightweightmiata.com

-400 lbs is a lot of weight!

Maybe you should talk to some of the spec miata guys, they might let you in on some of their setup secrets. Setup (cornerweighting, alignment, tire pressure) is make and break of the car's behavior regardless of the suspension and tires you have. And for the most part it is free.
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Old 06-13-2008, 03:44 AM   #49
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Phase one:

1. 4 pt roll bar
2. Remove 90% of foam from seat cushion
3. 15x10 steel **** wheels
4. Four used Formula Atlantic fronts, 23x9.5x15
5. One beer 15 minutes before first run

Phase two if it's still close:

1. Gut everything on the car that does not make it go, stop or turn. That means the windshield and frame, trunklid, lights, everything.

2. Two beers 5 minutes before first run

If you are even a halfway decent driver, you'll crush his gold chain wearing ***. You probably have no conception of just how much grip and speed is provided by real tires. I'm OK with that.
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Old 06-13-2008, 06:38 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emilio700 View Post
Phase one:

1. 4 pt roll bar
2. Remove 90% of foam from seat cushion
3. 15x10 steel **** wheels
4. Four used Formula Atlantic fronts, 23x9.5x15
5. One beer 15 minutes before first run

Phase two if it's still close:

1. Gut everything on the car that does not make it go, stop or turn. That means the windshield and frame, trunklid, lights, everything.

2. Two beers 5 minutes before first run

If you are even a halfway decent driver, you'll crush his gold chain wearing ***. You probably have no conception of just how much grip and speed is provided by real tires. I'm OK with that.

Now thats advise.
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Old 06-13-2008, 07:36 PM   #51
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Last year Formula Atlantic auctioned off signed race used tires at the end of every race, and you could buy unsigned ones for $5. You'll probably get two laps out of them, but it might be enough. Not sure if they're doing it this year, though.
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Old 06-13-2008, 07:43 PM   #52
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Depends on where you get them used, if it's in a series that the tire manufacturers have any control with the series or teams, they mandate that the tires have a hole drilled in the sidewall before they're sold or given away to the public.
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Old 06-17-2008, 10:03 PM   #53
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Are you guys new?

Check the back of Grassroots Motorsports. Fresh slicks for $75 each all day long. Half worn ones for $30-$40 each. I've turned a lot of my 15x9 customers on to them and some haven't even bothered with the 275 A6's.
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Old 06-18-2008, 10:36 PM   #54
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Man it's refreshing to see great advice from a vendor that's not pushing what the sell!

Emilio You Da Man!
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Old 06-18-2008, 11:34 PM   #55
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Loose these:

"kyb agx's w/dropzone (cheap-***) springs(450/350) on sleeves"

Think that and experience is the best bang for the buck upgrade you can get!
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Old 06-18-2008, 11:38 PM   #56
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I agree with Emilio.

Buy a rollbar
install better shocks and springs, or swap to coilovers
get better tires. if you really want to kick his ***, buy a second set of rims, even beat up ugly rims and throw some R tires on them.
install the new turbo
buy a race seat.


watch as the owner of the vette's jaw hits the floor.

a good set of tires is going to be the biggest bang for your buck. I have learn that just running mountain passes
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Old 06-19-2008, 12:53 AM   #57
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You guys do realize the guy in the Zo6, from the looks of the picture is pretty much stock, if he does spend some money and catcshe him, the guy in the vette could probably buy some track tires and bust his *** again. And the the guy in the Z06 is cruising around with the AC and stereo kicking. Let's not even discuss what he could do with a few bolt ons and suspension parts.
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Old 06-19-2008, 02:29 PM   #58
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Msydnor,

Duh. The 500+ hp $80,000k car can beat your 15 year old $2k car. The whole point of the thread is what can he do affordably to be more competetive. Of course the Z06 guy could dump another 20k in the car and get his edge back.

Why are you raining on our "how to beat a Z06" parade?!?
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Old 06-19-2008, 02:36 PM   #59
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So what exactly does a modified Miata like Dean's do better than a stock Z06? If I recall they both HAD to be on street tires.

No raining on a parade, but come on. The Miata is good cheap fun, but no the be all end all in performance. A lot of locals with Turbo Miatas talk it up how they beat a Porsche or a Ferrari during an autocross/lapping day. Usually it's driven by a lady Doctor on street tires. Big ******* deal.
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Old 06-19-2008, 03:20 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cueball1 View Post
Msydnor,

Duh. The 500+ hp $80,000k car can beat your 15 year old $2k car. The whole point of the thread is what can he do affordably to be more competetive. Of course the Z06 guy could dump another 20k in the car and get his edge back.

Why are you raining on our "how to beat a Z06" parade?!?
More like $2-3K. CAI, exhaust and tune and he can pick up another 50-100 hp, enough to stretch it out a bit more on the straights without adding to much power to affect it in the turns. I love my Mazdaspeed miata, but I try to keep it real.
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