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Old 02-11-2009, 03:07 PM   #41
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we'll see when i get them...
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Old 02-11-2009, 03:13 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixshooter View Post
IIRC the Ecsta XS is said to have the same R-compound rubber as the V710s, but with a streetable tread design and at $99 -TireRack

Win.

Edit: After checking it was a reviewer that claimed it was their R-compound, not Kuhmo. But a 180 treadwear rating is a good indicator.

I was reading more about them and the 180 rating is there to pass as a SCCA street class tire, a few people have posted that the "thumbnail test" puts them just slightly harder than a v700. I think they may be a better choice than a 615, people who I've found running them like them better than their 615s and are saying the size runs wider...

one person took them to the track and said they didnt get at all greasy like his 615s and they should be on par with RE01Rs and Z1 Starspec which is nice. Being a brand new design helps too, wish Tire Rack would do a test of them soon.
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Old 02-11-2009, 08:33 PM   #43
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You can do a test on them for me!
Tell me how they work out.
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Old 02-12-2009, 12:50 AM   #44
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V710's aren't going to last a really long time on the track. They are a very soft compound specifically made for autocross and are somewhat prone to over heating. They don't stay fast after too many heat cycles.

I'd look into a fast cheap street tire (Azenis) or a long lasting R. I'd personally look into the RA-1. Quicker than a street tire, stays pretty consistent right to the cords and available in a lot of miata friendly sizes. Or go with used slicks.

I run 215/50/13 V710s and they are stupid sticky.
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Old 02-12-2009, 01:34 AM   #45
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yeah i checked vulcan after posting.

seriously the 615 is definitely more progressive at the limit of traction than the 215. and they didn't get greasy on me last time I tracked mine.
I've never tracked Azenis, but they are known for getting really greasy. Emilio doesn't like them at all; he says they act like a race tire, with really snappy breakaway characteristics, but with none of the grip.

If I had to choose a street tire to do track/autocross with, it would be a Z1 Star Spec or a Toyo R1R or the RE01R, not an RS-2, and definitely not an RT-615. I wouldn't do a v710 either; they are autocross tires and they'll get greasy on track too.

A well-driven car on a basic R-comp (NT-01, R888, RA-1) will go 4-5 seconds faster around most tracks than a street-tire car. On an autocross course, they are worth the same 4-5 seconds. The car turns in better, it brakes SO much harder, the mid-corner grip is retarded, exit grip is way better. Street tires just SUCK.

edit: jesus, not as much as r-comp selection in 16" sizes. Are you deadset on keeping all your 16" wheels? You'd save a shitpile of money by selling a set and getting some 15s for track/autox duty.

Last edited by Savington; 02-12-2009 at 01:44 AM.
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Old 02-12-2009, 10:23 AM   #46
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I just don't see the worth in getting r-comps or crazy expensive street comp tires at this point in time...maybe down the road I can do something different. But I don't compete and will more than likely only do two HPDEs this year (if that), not worth the investment to be slightly faster competing against no one.

I think I'm going to give these XSes a try, the few members on the sccaforum that have tried them prefer them over the falkens and they are calling them "Falken Killers."
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Old 02-12-2009, 11:43 AM   #47
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Street tires won't be as durable as a proper R. But if you only plan on doing a couple of track days it probably won't matter too much. I've seen guys cord nearly brand new street tires at autocrosses before. The RA-1 last a long time, I bought a set used that were near 4/32nd of tread. I used those for two seasons of autocross (1 was with a co-driver) and drove about 5000km on the street. Corded them at the last autocross of that season. I honestly don't think you'll see a high performance street tire take that kind of abuse and last nearly as long. A street tire for track/autocross is false economy.

If it were me, I'd buy a set of 14" RA-1 and put them on some stock wheels. In the end it'll be cheaper than using a single set of street tires for both purposes.
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Old 02-12-2009, 01:09 PM   #48
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My 215s lasted years; I had only used them for autoxing and three trackdays. I bought them in 2004 and finally ditched them last year :P

I sold my stock wheels so I can fit over my 11" rotor in the front.
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Old 02-12-2009, 01:20 PM   #49
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The 215's lasted me a long time too. I sold them when I was done with them, last I heard they were hard like hockey pucks but still had significant treat left.
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Old 02-12-2009, 01:44 PM   #50
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yeah i still have tread on mine, but they grip worth **** now so I stopped using them.


If it makes you all feel better I got a line on a set of new xp10/xp8s for a good price.
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Old 02-12-2009, 01:50 PM   #51
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[EDIT] I'm a tard

Last edited by mazda/nissan; 02-12-2009 at 02:51 PM.
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Old 02-12-2009, 05:50 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y8s View Post
yeah i checked vulcan after posting.

seriously the 615 is definitely more progressive at the limit of traction than the 215. and they didn't get greasy on me last time I tracked mine.

this is after maybe 300 miles plus one track day.

And if those are the ones I had, I raped that set for a another few thousand miles, they are great.
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Old 02-12-2009, 05:51 PM   #53
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Quote:
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My 215s lasted years; I had only used them for autoxing and three trackdays. I bought them in 2004 and finally ditched them last year :P

I sold my stock wheels so I can fit over my 11" rotor in the front.
What all are you having to do to run the rado setup?
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Old 02-12-2009, 05:58 PM   #54
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the kit from M-Tuned. Get in on it by Sunday....


https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t28696-7/#post367153
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Old 02-13-2009, 05:51 PM   #55
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Aw.


Today was full of so much fail it hurt.


I had to pull my IM because a snapped stud on the head prevented it from sealing. When I started to pull it out I got 2-3 rotations on it before it snapped into the head. Spent a better part of the day trying to get it out. So I have to pull the head and to just get the thing running again, I'll be putting my spare head on. I'll hold onto the ported one, maybe slowly build it.


Seats also don't fit. When I test fit them they seemed like they'd be good, but after spending a great deal of effort mounting them to the stock sliders, they are just a touch too large; too wide, too tall. Even if I bolt them to the floor, they just aren't going to be that great. Going to sell them and get something else.

Positve note: The harnesses came in today and they are nice and will wrap around my harness bar.
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Old 02-13-2009, 06:41 PM   #56
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Aww, i know the disappointing feeling too...

Just got my oil lines from tunertoys today, was so ready to go put the turbo on this weekend...they sent me the wrong ******* oil drain flange.

Oh well...
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Old 02-13-2009, 06:45 PM   #57
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Everything is always 2 steps forward and 3 steps back eh.
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Old 02-13-2009, 06:48 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
Aw.


Today was full of so much fail it hurt.


I had to pull my IM because a snapped stud on the head prevented it from sealing. When I started to pull it out I got 2-3 rotations on it before it snapped into the head. Spent a better part of the day trying to get it out. So I have to pull the head and to just get the thing running again, I'll be putting my spare head on. I'll hold onto the ported one, maybe slowly build it.


Seats also don't fit. When I test fit them they seemed like they'd be good, but after spending a great deal of effort mounting them to the stock sliders, they are just a touch too large; too wide, too tall. Even if I bolt them to the floor, they just aren't going to be that great. Going to sell them and get something else.

Positve note: The harnesses came in today and they are nice and will wrap around my harness bar.
Having JUST fixed a damaged stud in a head (read, just finished, yeah!), I can tell you it can be fixed with the head on the engine. Drill that bitch out with left hand drill bits. If you get lucky, as you get close to the ID of the threads, it spins out because there's no longer much force pushing the threads against the head. Worst case is you drill till the stud and threads are gone. Then you drill, tap, helicoil, and install new stud.

I just fixed an exhaust manifold stud that was stripped in the head and now it don't leak! OMG I'm soooooooooooooooooo Happy it's fixed!

Anyways, it can be done, I'll break it down for you if you wish. I promise you don't have to pull the head though.
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Old 02-13-2009, 07:43 PM   #59
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I made the mistake of using an extractor bit....since it's my luck, it broke off in the stud. and since it's hardened...
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Old 02-13-2009, 07:51 PM   #60
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Quote:
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I made the mistake of using an extractor bit....since it's my luck, it broke off in the stud. and since it's hardened...
Extractors never work. It's ok though, like you said, it's harder than.... Just about anything. So take a piece of anything, grind it down to a point, and shatter the extractor into crumbs and blow them out. Then you pickup with the left hand drill bits. I've done this.... Like 20 times.

Though I've personally never broken (or even used) an easy out, I've helped others remove broken extractors, Just get a center punch and shatter it to nothing.
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