Whos got a motorcycle here?
08-04-2009, 01:04 PM
#241
Thats almost like the very 1st bike I learned to ride on. It was a 125 though. I told my friend I could ride, cause I figured I could and he let me. I had watched him ride forever. Only to find out, I really could ride. It was great. I think I was probably 12 at the time.
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08-04-2009, 08:37 PM
#243
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Impact kills, but if it by chance doesn't, then not being geared up will make you wish it had.
ATGATT! You've got better things to do with your time than regrow your skin.
Also, I'm a sucker for cafe racers, that 350 makes me very envious, please keep us up to date on any progress!
Also, also, it's pretty easy to build your own carb balancer for a two cyliner. Ask google, he knows how, just a tube and a 2x4
ATGATT! You've got better things to do with your time than regrow your skin.
Also, I'm a sucker for cafe racers, that 350 makes me very envious, please keep us up to date on any progress!
Also, also, it's pretty easy to build your own carb balancer for a two cyliner. Ask google, he knows how, just a tube and a 2x4
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08-05-2009, 12:51 AM
#244
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Impact kills, but if it by chance doesn't, then not being geared up will make you wish it had.
ATGATT! You've got better things to do with your time than regrow your skin.
Also, I'm a sucker for cafe racers, that 350 makes me very envious, please keep us up to date on any progress!
Also, also, it's pretty easy to build your own carb balancer for a two cyliner. Ask google, he knows how, just a tube and a 2x4
ATGATT! You've got better things to do with your time than regrow your skin.
Also, I'm a sucker for cafe racers, that 350 makes me very envious, please keep us up to date on any progress!
Also, also, it's pretty easy to build your own carb balancer for a two cyliner. Ask google, he knows how, just a tube and a 2x4
Thanks for the tip on the carb balancer. Hopefully the shop manual has everything i need in order to sync the carbs.
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08-05-2009, 08:30 AM
#245
I prefer the "two glass bottles with tubes" method. Makes synching the carbs really easy.
I used two Fuze bottles, two large rubber chair leg caps from Lowes (specialty hardware section), and three custom-cut pieces of clear tubing. Fill both halfway with water (w/ food coloring if you want). Drill two holes in the caps. One tube goes between the two bottles with the ends completely submerged (touching bottom). Set the bottles up next to motor inline like the two cylinders. The other two longer ones go from each bottle to a vacuum port on the carb for each respective cylinder. These two hoses are barely in the cap, and SHOULD ONLY DRAW AIR.
It works by a simple pressure differential, which will push water from one bottle into the other through the center hose. Make adjustment (will have to check where screw is, but usually on throttle mech linking two carbs), and see if transfer rate increases or decreases. You should adjust until water STOPS moving from one to the other.
You may run out of water in one bottle if they're way off, and will have to even them back out (by sucking...your specialty). I usually would even them out and check one more time when finished to ensure that head height (which is where your gf usually is) isn't affecting the balance.
Enjoy synched carbs...huge difference on these bikes.
PS. Don't carry this contraption around in your backpack...it's really hard to explain to cops.
Here's the write-up I followed when I was on the various Kawi forums, except I didn't bother with that cool of a cap:
Is there a carb sync tool? - Ninja250Wiki
I used two Fuze bottles, two large rubber chair leg caps from Lowes (specialty hardware section), and three custom-cut pieces of clear tubing. Fill both halfway with water (w/ food coloring if you want). Drill two holes in the caps. One tube goes between the two bottles with the ends completely submerged (touching bottom). Set the bottles up next to motor inline like the two cylinders. The other two longer ones go from each bottle to a vacuum port on the carb for each respective cylinder. These two hoses are barely in the cap, and SHOULD ONLY DRAW AIR.
It works by a simple pressure differential, which will push water from one bottle into the other through the center hose. Make adjustment (will have to check where screw is, but usually on throttle mech linking two carbs), and see if transfer rate increases or decreases. You should adjust until water STOPS moving from one to the other.
You may run out of water in one bottle if they're way off, and will have to even them back out (by sucking...your specialty). I usually would even them out and check one more time when finished to ensure that head height (which is where your gf usually is) isn't affecting the balance.
Enjoy synched carbs...huge difference on these bikes.
PS. Don't carry this contraption around in your backpack...it's really hard to explain to cops.
Here's the write-up I followed when I was on the various Kawi forums, except I didn't bother with that cool of a cap:
Is there a carb sync tool? - Ninja250Wiki
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08-05-2009, 06:30 PM
#247
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What does it mean when after 10 min one exhaust pipe is really really hot, and the other you can still put your palm to and hold for 2 seconds? Which side is lean which side is rich?
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08-05-2009, 07:41 PM
#249
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1st of all, it's air cooled, isn't it? Make sure you have a huge fan blowing on it if you run it for over a few minutes, it'll start to cook after 10 minutes.
A cold pipe indicates as gospeed81 said, a non-firing cylinder. no matter how lean or rich, an internal combustion engine creates explosions and will make the exhaust hot. revving it a bit (you remembered the fan, right?) and see if that cold pipe warms up. If not, it's a fuel/spark issue. If it does warm up, it means at the idle position, the butterfly valves are off enough that one is open enough to keep it idling, while the other is closed completely. A "bench sync" is hand here, where you carefully eyeball the butterfly valves so they're roughly the same, otherwise you'll be chasing your tail trying to synchronize them.
A cold pipe indicates as gospeed81 said, a non-firing cylinder. no matter how lean or rich, an internal combustion engine creates explosions and will make the exhaust hot. revving it a bit (you remembered the fan, right?) and see if that cold pipe warms up. If not, it's a fuel/spark issue. If it does warm up, it means at the idle position, the butterfly valves are off enough that one is open enough to keep it idling, while the other is closed completely. A "bench sync" is hand here, where you carefully eyeball the butterfly valves so they're roughly the same, otherwise you'll be chasing your tail trying to synchronize them.
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08-05-2009, 08:42 PM
#250
this is the perfect mindset in a situation like this, i've used it many times. enjoy yourself and keep your head clear.
on a sidenote. i've used 2-wheel riding time as a form of medetation, it's something i find that done well requires so much concentration that you tend to temporarily forget about everything and anything else going on in your life.
on a sidenote. i've used 2-wheel riding time as a form of medetation, it's something i find that done well requires so much concentration that you tend to temporarily forget about everything and anything else going on in your life.
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08-05-2009, 11:11 PM
#251
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1st of all, it's air cooled, isn't it? Make sure you have a huge fan blowing on it if you run it for over a few minutes, it'll start to cook after 10 minutes.
A cold pipe indicates as gospeed81 said, a non-firing cylinder. no matter how lean or rich, an internal combustion engine creates explosions and will make the exhaust hot. revving it a bit (you remembered the fan, right?) and see if that cold pipe warms up. If not, it's a fuel/spark issue. If it does warm up, it means at the idle position, the butterfly valves are off enough that one is open enough to keep it idling, while the other is closed completely. A "bench sync" is hand here, where you carefully eyeball the butterfly valves so they're roughly the same, otherwise you'll be chasing your tail trying to synchronize them.
A cold pipe indicates as gospeed81 said, a non-firing cylinder. no matter how lean or rich, an internal combustion engine creates explosions and will make the exhaust hot. revving it a bit (you remembered the fan, right?) and see if that cold pipe warms up. If not, it's a fuel/spark issue. If it does warm up, it means at the idle position, the butterfly valves are off enough that one is open enough to keep it idling, while the other is closed completely. A "bench sync" is hand here, where you carefully eyeball the butterfly valves so they're roughly the same, otherwise you'll be chasing your tail trying to synchronize them.
Air cooled. Ill keep the fan in mind in my garage where I dont have AC.
Syncing is def in order, and its a given now that one of them also has the incorrect mixture set. I also have another minor problem, one of the intake boots looks cracked.
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08-05-2009, 11:37 PM
#252
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generally the o-ring sandwiched between the intake boot and head is the problem, assuming its a similar design to my '85 Suzuki. Used boots can be bought on eBay for cheap. 4 cylinder owners will buy a used set, then mix and match to get the 4 best looking ones, hoping they don't leak (along with new o-rings).
AC or not it doesn't matter, it needs air moving past it. With AC, it'll just take a little longer to heat up the air around it and then still overheat.
A carb cleaning is always a good thing, and not as hard as you might imagine. Just be ---- about keeping parts separated and in order, and don't dip anything but metal parts in the carb cleaner.
These are are mikuni cv carb pics, but the write up might help you get an idea of how to organize, disassemble, and clean your carbs.
The GSResources - Carb Rebuild Pg. 1 of 9
AC or not it doesn't matter, it needs air moving past it. With AC, it'll just take a little longer to heat up the air around it and then still overheat.
A carb cleaning is always a good thing, and not as hard as you might imagine. Just be ---- about keeping parts separated and in order, and don't dip anything but metal parts in the carb cleaner.
These are are mikuni cv carb pics, but the write up might help you get an idea of how to organize, disassemble, and clean your carbs.
The GSResources - Carb Rebuild Pg. 1 of 9
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08-06-2009, 12:46 AM
#253
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generally the o-ring sandwiched between the intake boot and head is the problem, assuming its a similar design to my '85 Suzuki. Used boots can be bought on eBay for cheap. 4 cylinder owners will buy a used set, then mix and match to get the 4 best looking ones, hoping they don't leak (along with new o-rings).
AC or not it doesn't matter, it needs air moving past it. With AC, it'll just take a little longer to heat up the air around it and then still overheat.
A carb cleaning is always a good thing, and not as hard as you might imagine. Just be ---- about keeping parts separated and in order, and don't dip anything but metal parts in the carb cleaner.
These are are mikuni cv carb pics, but the write up might help you get an idea of how to organize, disassemble, and clean your carbs.
The GSResources - Carb Rebuild Pg. 1 of 9
AC or not it doesn't matter, it needs air moving past it. With AC, it'll just take a little longer to heat up the air around it and then still overheat.
A carb cleaning is always a good thing, and not as hard as you might imagine. Just be ---- about keeping parts separated and in order, and don't dip anything but metal parts in the carb cleaner.
These are are mikuni cv carb pics, but the write up might help you get an idea of how to organize, disassemble, and clean your carbs.
The GSResources - Carb Rebuild Pg. 1 of 9
What I meant by AC, was electricity.
I dont need to clean these carbs because they are new.
However, one thing I dont get is where the vacuum source on them is? Each carb has 3 tubes coming out of it. One on the bowl, and 2 on opposite sides.
Edit: Turns out these old Keihns are worth some change if they are in decent shape, and so are the stock air boxes. Soon as I get this stuff listed on ebay, im gonna pick up new boots, gaskets, and filters.
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08-09-2009, 08:37 PM
#257
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Started tearing into the bike today.
Didnt do much, just re-wrapped parts of the harness, re-routed some wires and cables, took a better look at the frame and engine, tightened various nuts and bolts.
I got new carb boots and gaskets on order, and pod filters to replace the factory air boxes which are useless with the Mikunis. A pin-spanner wrench to adjust the rear shocks, and new spark plugs. Also a new horn, cause the one on there died.
Gonna paint the battery box and tool box, adjust the rear wheel, and the brakes next time.
Question for you guys. The factory flasher relay died, think I can use one from a car? This particular one is two prong, and every site I visit wants 30 bucks for this POS. I aint paying that much. What are my alternatives?
Didnt do much, just re-wrapped parts of the harness, re-routed some wires and cables, took a better look at the frame and engine, tightened various nuts and bolts.
I got new carb boots and gaskets on order, and pod filters to replace the factory air boxes which are useless with the Mikunis. A pin-spanner wrench to adjust the rear shocks, and new spark plugs. Also a new horn, cause the one on there died.
Gonna paint the battery box and tool box, adjust the rear wheel, and the brakes next time.
Question for you guys. The factory flasher relay died, think I can use one from a car? This particular one is two prong, and every site I visit wants 30 bucks for this POS. I aint paying that much. What are my alternatives?
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10-30-2009, 12:59 AM
#258
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well i know i'm a little late to the thread but i've had quite a few bike started on a honda z50 then went to a drz125 then a 97 katana 600 and then the sv650(custom) then ducati monster 900 and now the honda 919 and i'm only 22 i'd say thats pretty good record if i might say so myself by far its a tie for the best bike yet between the sv and 919 i mean i loved my sv but man this 919 is sooooo much fun and wicked fast i mean ***** to the wall fast
if your looking for gear there is a new line out called speed and strength distributed by Tucker Rocky that is what i wear and it is really nice apparel
Shark helmets are the hottest thing on the market right now a little pricey for the high ea it should work just fine end ones but they really are worth it
as for your technical questions i'm a ducati bmw suzuki certified tech so if you need any help just pm me as for the relay question if you haven't figured out already yes a normal relay from advanced should do fine
if your looking for gear there is a new line out called speed and strength distributed by Tucker Rocky that is what i wear and it is really nice apparel
Shark helmets are the hottest thing on the market right now a little pricey for the high ea it should work just fine end ones but they really are worth it
as for your technical questions i'm a ducati bmw suzuki certified tech so if you need any help just pm me as for the relay question if you haven't figured out already yes a normal relay from advanced should do fine
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10-30-2009, 01:49 AM
#259
So whos got one? Me!
What kind do you have? Ninja 250.
How long have you been riding, history behind it? About a year... I heard racing on two wheels is cheaper than racing on four, so I decided to try it out.
One piece of wisdom you would like to pass on to a new rider? Gear gear gear gear gear. Never go out without good gear covering anything you wouldn't mind losing.
Bikes can lead to great adventures...
Edit: Bike has changed a lot since then...
What kind do you have? Ninja 250.
How long have you been riding, history behind it? About a year... I heard racing on two wheels is cheaper than racing on four, so I decided to try it out.
One piece of wisdom you would like to pass on to a new rider? Gear gear gear gear gear. Never go out without good gear covering anything you wouldn't mind losing.
Bikes can lead to great adventures...
Edit: Bike has changed a lot since then...
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