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Miatas Before the Gap Aug 1st 2019

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Old 08-06-2019, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by KMiata
Super fun event, thanks for having us!
David, thanks for taking me for a ride, that was insane. You have another person thinking about a K Swap now.
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Old 08-06-2019, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Oil Leak
David, thanks for taking me for a ride, that was insane. You have another person thinking about a K Swap now.
Awesome, just let us know when you're ready to go
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Old 08-06-2019, 01:59 PM
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I wish my camera was working - I had some fun trying to chase down a couple of those K cars in the Red group. I'd love to have gotten a ride in one as well, but all my time outside the run groups was spent instructing or trying to cool off.
I also found out that the weather was worth about 5mph on the top end (~105 IAT this event compared to 75 the last go around).
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Old 08-08-2019, 04:10 PM
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Anyone with a turbo BP engine care to share water temps and cooling setups from this event? I'm running a Supermiata radiator, no reroute, hacked up factory under tray and Singular vents. I was seeing about 225F towards the end of some of the afternoon sessions, which led me to back off a bit.
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Old 08-08-2019, 05:46 PM
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- 2871 Chinacharger knock-off
- Kraken manifold
- EBay aluminum rad
- No undertray
- Home-brew radiator ducting
- Singular vents (only the side vents, not the center)
- DIY reroute

Max temps all day - 196 F
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Old 08-08-2019, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Morello
Anyone with a turbo BP engine care to share water temps and cooling setups from this event? I'm running a Supermiata radiator, no reroute, hacked up factory under tray and Singular vents. I was seeing about 225F towards the end of some of the afternoon sessions, which led me to back off a bit.
Reasonable ducting that has some air bypassing the FMIC. 37mm Koyo Radiator. Reroute. Small intercooler (27 wide, 5.5 high, 2.5 thick) with oil cooler above it. Under-tray. Only running 175 WHP with my TD04 at 7.5 psi. 190* thermostat, Supermiata higher pressure cap. A/C still in place. I still need to plug the holes on the horizontal piece in front of the cross member (that is in front of the radiator).

Max MAT = 130. Max CLT = 210. Running 50/50 coolant. Thus, I could likely survive hotter ambients If I ran less coolant and more water, possibly with water wetter.

If I wanted to run more power, I would want a better intercooler.

Re-route is Step 1 in my opinion.
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Old 08-09-2019, 10:34 AM
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I only saw 110F for MAT, but my FMIC takes up the whole grille opening and the factory front air duct basically forces all the air through the opening through the FMIC before the radiator.
Might end up with a reroute after all, which I was hoping to avoid on account of the factory VVT head gasket.
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Old 08-09-2019, 11:21 AM
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Just spitballing here, which do you think might be more important, Inlet air temperature or coolant temperature? I would prioritize my placement of coolers appropriately for whatever my answer was.

My set up allows the air to travel above below and beside the intercooler on its way to the radiator because my radiator needs all the help it can get.
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Old 08-09-2019, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
Just spitballing here, which do you think might be more important, Inlet air temperature or coolant temperature? I would prioritize my placement of coolers appropriately for whatever my answer was.

My set up allows the air to travel above below and beside the intercooler on its way to the radiator because my radiator needs all the help it can get.
Just guessing here, but I would think that IAT has more impact on charge density and Max power (not mention the onset of lean conditions). Whereas CLT would be a danger for head warping or oil thinning with a pressure loss and bearing failure.

Pick your poison.
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Old 08-09-2019, 01:13 PM
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I may experiment with removing the front plastic baffle to let some air flow around the intercooler and to the radiator. 3 days at Grid Life coming up at the end of August is sure to be hot as ***** so I'd like to have something figured out for then, though Road Atlanta isn't as bad as AMP for heat/air flow it seems. Are high intake temps more likely to cause knock than high water temps are to cause mechanical damage? I don't think mechanical damage will happen at 230F based on my experience with other engines, but I may be wrong.
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Old 08-09-2019, 02:32 PM
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AMP is so short that you don't really have a chance to cool down except between 16 & 1 (AMP is like a super-long autox course). RA is more typical of a long-ish road course.

I'd defer to the "real racers" on here, but my mind says that engines don't "like" hot air (thus intercoolers and the like), so high IATs = bad news. My (ancient) thermodynamics brain says, high temps = less ability to hold fuel in suspension = leaner mixtures = higher potential for pre-ignition/knock/detonation = crankcase ventilation.

In my car, I don't see temps much over 210F, even heat-soaked on I-285 in a traffic jam. Anything above that and I'd be parked on the side of the road waiting for things to cool down. Call me paranoid, but I've spun bearings because of oil starvation so anything that even HINTS of that gives me the *******.
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Old 08-11-2019, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by rwyatt365
Before
After


Lesson learned
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Old 08-11-2019, 09:02 PM
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I wondered what was going on, saw it right when I was leaving.





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Old 08-11-2019, 10:11 PM
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He was baking brownies.
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Old 08-12-2019, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
He was baking brownies.
Mmmmm, brake fluid infused brownies. My favorite!!
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Old 08-13-2019, 02:19 PM
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Saw that too - scary! My solution was to wrap literally everything around the turbo with reflective heat tape or wrap... I just don't see how to build a box around the efr6258.
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Old 08-13-2019, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Morello
Saw that too - scary! My solution was to wrap literally everything around the turbo with reflective heat tape or wrap... I just don't see how to build a box around the efr6258.
On the one hand, it was not as bad as it looked.

On the other hand - when I think that 30 seconds before everything went up in smoke I was foot to the floor, coming out of turn 14. Had the brakes failed then I would be writing this from a hospital bed.
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Old 08-13-2019, 06:22 PM
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Morello, I was overheating that day too. 1.6L running 10psi, SuperMiata radiator, reroute. Was’t data logging, but the stock temp gauge was unhappy. Went back the next week, same problem. I think AMP is just tough, heavy on the throttle with no long straights for airflow. Going back on Saturday, going to switch to straight water (currently running 1/3 antifreeze).
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Old 08-26-2019, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Schroedinger
Morello, I was overheating that day too. 1.6L running 10psi, SuperMiata radiator, reroute. Was’t data logging, but the stock temp gauge was unhappy. Went back the next week, same problem. I think AMP is just tough, heavy on the throttle with no long straights for airflow. Going back on Saturday, going to switch to straight water (currently running 1/3 antifreeze).
Any luck with that? I flushed and properly bled the cooling system before the grid life event at Road Atlanta this weekend and it went okay... Using distilled water and about 1 quart of coolant I was running around 220 most of the time, with only one session (Saturday afternoon) getting up to 230 before I backed off. I was also basically drafting a 996 Carrera down the back straight every lap, so that probably didn't help. Sunday was amazing - about 15 degrees cooler outside and the car was running at 210-215 all day.

I'll try to siphon a quart out and run some water wetter for the next event to see if that helps.. I also had a couple folks recommend punching holes in the bumper above the intercooler to feed some air directly into the radiator cavity...

Last edited by Morello; 08-26-2019 at 09:15 AM.
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Old 08-26-2019, 11:40 AM
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Didn't help. I ordered Singular hood vents, we'll see if that does any good.
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