Well I had a bit more work done today. I purchased a Maxim Works header of yahoo.jp auctions a few months ago and today Ocean modified it to have a 2.5'' piping from the collector to the test pipe.

Header...


Mid-work...




The Man behind the magic of my build...


Finished...


And Installed...



First impressions on my closed circut drive home, this car is a new animal. It pulls way harder from 3.5k onward to 5k where the limiter is set right now. Before it took forever to hit 140kph rolling into it in 5th. Now... not so much :P

Not to mention it sounds way better and my exhaust drone is almost all gone.

When I get some cash together (this build is running me dry), I'll be dropping the header off at the local ceramic coaters for some "refreshing." Once it's coated, you'll never be able to tell I paid $150 for a used header on an auction site

 

what header did you used to have, in the first post?

 

eBay OBX

 

Slowly getting to the end. Tuning appt. is set for next Thursday. What's left to do..,

- Finish oil cooler/system installation
- Tap fuel rail for AN FPR line, install Aeromotive FPR
- Tighten IC pipes
- Buy a belt for the Rotrex

And that's it.


The resivour fit nicely on the bolt that is used for the stock airbox, and the oil cooler is mounted on top of the bracket I made for my IC. All in all, the installation was way easier than I anticipated. Props to Kraftwerks and Emilio for making a very easy to install kit. The instructions are for a NB, and even without dedicated NA instructions (I bought the Race Kit) it was easy to figure out.

 

i/c shots?

Looking good.

 

It's off the car right now, I'll snap a pic tommorow.

 

 

So I just got home from the dyno session. Car is tuned, and runs very well although it was a bit lower than what I had hoped for. But that is mainly due to the lower boost level. The car was tuned on a Dynapack which supposed reads a bit lower, but at the end of the day the car rips pretty good and I'm content... for now. Here is what I have for graphs.






A few things come to mind on what I can do to make some more power and the first on the list is an intake manifold and larger throttle body. Also, water injection and possibly spinning the Rotrex up a bit more to get the same 14PSI at 7000RPM instead of 8000RPM.

I'm also worried a bit about the pulley on the Rotrex. I was sent a 8 rib pulley because that's all they had for a 115mm size but the belt jumps around above 6.5k or so. I'll post a vid. Going to see what I can figure out with Kraftwerks because I don't think this is good for belt life especially on a car that will see a lot of track time above 6.5K RPM.

I think going with the larger pulley for a higher RPM which I will rarely see (don't plan to run it to 8k unless I need some extra RPMS for AutoX or something) hurt the power output a bit and I may just decide to lower the RPM and run a smaller pulley especially with the fact that the current pulley is not a 4 rib pulley.

 

after doing a bit more reading the only other 1.6L I can find is this 4AGE that ran the 94. He only made 14PSI too but at 7200RPM rather than my 8000RPM and made 267whp. I may just run a smaller pulley (I can run 105mm and still redline at 7400RPM without overspinning) and I should be able to pick up some power everywhere. If I redline the blower at 7400RPM I think I should pick up 1 or 2 PSI at that RPM maybe hitting 15-16psi if I'm lucky. If I add an intake manifold it should help even more.

Vid of the 4AGE.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sPIaXDlExaE


And a vid from today.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yCuob_oYtKg

 

Not that I don't appreciate the cleanliness and thought that is going into your build, but this is now the second car that I've seen that Ocean built/tuned that has left me going...WTF is up with the low output???

 

The torque is really really low for this boost level. Something is wrong.

 

It's not really that bad guys. Look at where the boost line is. At 6000RPM it's only making 9PSI and is making close to it's peak torque and 200whp. Not bad for 9 PSI. You can't look at it like a turbo dyno sheet.

The Rotrex starts climbing pretty hard at about 12PSI. I don't think I'm anywhere near the efficiency for this compressor.

I am going to swap a 105mm pulley in sometime next month and that should bump the PSI up to 16ish at 7200RPM.

Take a look at the 4AGE. It has might higher compression, 20 valves instead of 16 and only made 267whp.

Also dyna packs are a heart break dyno.


Anyways... I'm not someone who gets hung up oin numbers... the car is fast and pulls pretty damn hard to redline. Rotrex's aren't known to make big torque anyways. Take a look at trackdayhookey's car on m.net.

 

From what I can gather at about 6500RPM the intake manifold really starts choking and the torque starts dropping. When I have some extra cash to spend I'm going to get gotpsi to make me an intake manifold. If you follow the torque line, with a better flowing manifold it should put torque around the 200 mark if I just re-tuned this set up.

Compression, leak down and everything is good. There is nothing wrong with the motor, regardless of who built it. It's a basic bottom end that anyone could have made..


Take a look at this thread to get an idea of what kind of powerband these things make. But this was on a 1.8L... and with 100 oct.

http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread...trackdayhookey

 

Oh, and Ocean did not tune this car.

 

That dyno is a bit demoralizing. My car made 225whp and 216ftlb of torque on the same dyno. This with an ETD long tube, GT2860RS, full 3" exhaust, stock MSM engine and 13psi.

 

Oh, another Vancouver member! Yeah, so what I've been told. Who did your tuning? bob?

 

Yup, Bob did the tuning. I even forced him to use one of Jeff's Det Can's.

Interesting enough after tuning on the dyno with no hint of knock I could drive up the "cut" on hwy1 and get knock. So I've pulled some timing since that tune. Makes me wonder whether I'm ingesting oil mist via my PCV valve while coasting and that's what's causing the knock?

 

Could be.. I VTA so that's a non issue for me. we detected zero knock on the dyno as well. With some other kind of tool. I want to get one of Jeff's though... so I can listen on my own when I go back for more tuning.

 

probably your load is way different then what it was on the dyno would be my guess.

 

Which is odd because dyna packs are one of the best loading dynos out there.