Because modifying wrenches isn't needed for that middle bottom nut.

 

While I do believe the AbsurdFlow mani to be a better piece, I was able to install my BEGi S5 mani with an unmodified 14mm Craftsman wrench. I can't see why everyone has such a problem, 1.6 cars maybe?

 

I hate you

<-Jealous

 

And from the top no less, I'm jealous.

 

my ETD doesn't require modified wrenches.

everyone has nipples too, not just you.

 

I used a typical craftsman box wrench on mine...

 

I don't have anything on that stud....Whatever.

 

I used this ho:

Mine is a bit tighter than yours, but equally glorious.

 

I imagine Andrew is holding your hand on this, but I mistanely had a leak at the dp. You probably need a friend to help hold the downpipe to make sure its flush when putting the clamp on.

When I fixed this I went from making 11psi at 3600 to 3200rpm, lol.

Welcome to the crew up superior fabrication. I'm not only a client, I'm the player president.

 

lol.

Impressive.

 

12 & 14mm combo FTW!

 

What are the squares on top of the manifold? Are they future EGT bungs to be drilled?

PS looking good.

 

I too had no issues accessing my nut with a standard wrench on my s5 manifold.

 

Gussetting...its what you need when your ***** drop and you cut a hot-lap for the first time in your life.

 

 

Nick,
What are you doing about turbine/chra hardware? I'm trying the "nimonic" **** with inconel safety wire. If that fails I'm dropping off the green car to Mike Minnet in Fort Worth with an LS3, T56, and 8.8 rear...after I grow a few thousand bucks.

 

I see the problem. His turbocharger is guzzling beer.

 

Sounds painful.

 

Strange, i always had a hell of a time getting that nut on with my begi cast mani. I thought everyone had one of these:


No, by myself. I actually rigged up a few pieces of 2x4 to hold the bottom of the dp in place while i played with it a bit. No leaks that i know of yet. Only test drove it a mile or so last night.

There is currently nothing on it. I need to get the car to a fabricator for some solid charge pipes to finish up my exhaust then to TC design for a cage. Ill be safety wireing mine with ss wire before the car sees any boost. I would have safety wired it before i put it together but i broke like 3 drill bits. These bolts are strong.

 

buy inconel wire...no more chances. I think I'm going to start with the TiAL bolts I already bought, wired with inconel, and if that fails I will use the "nimonic" **** from Williams F2. I'd rather drill on the $10 hardware than drill on the $130 nut and stud combo that is sure to wreck my life.

I was able to point my charge pipes "down" unlike most others with the AF stuff and I just had Abe/ARTech use the old begi pipes.

BTW, I'm also thinking about trying to get the 11psi BOV spring to work becuase I had very high Silicon #'s on my last uoa most likely from the BOV staying open.