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I really havent dumped much money into this car. I do alot of side work to pay for my toys. My job is enough to pay my bills and keep the family fed. Having 3 kids is overwhelming sometimes, but we are making it look easy.
I am not running a cat or muffler.
Pulling fuel was the answer. Car just made a good pull and the power doesnt fall off nearly as hard. Going to bump up to 8 psi and work it there until I get good enough numbers that I want to move up again.
So far I've gained 13whp at 3.6psi just by working through bugs. About a 10% increase in power without adding any more boost. Will probably update some more on sunday after the family 4th shinanigans.
Ok. At 8 Psi VD is showing 189whp. The 184 was my first pull, removed some fuel and got 189. I am going to remove the MAF first thing in the morning and report the difference. I'm hoping that it being stagnant and in the way is hurting hp a little. Im looking for 195hp out of 8 PSI. That would keep me linear with my numbers at 4 psi. If it acts right then I am going to 12psi again and see what she does. If the clutch feels fine after some 12 psi pulls I may even throw the slicks on and make a test run tomorrow. Crossing my fingers.
Looks like you're getting her figured out.. May want to lean out a little more after 6500 at this boost level.
I did some very rough mapping on the 60-1 compressor map to help you visualize compressor flow. I assume thats the turbo you have. its the closest match to the measurements you sent for compressor wheel I could see. I plotted from 5 to 25psi and from 5000-8000 rpm. I did engine flow at 85% efficiency which is likely close for a stock engine, as you do cams and headwork the engine efficiency will improve a bit all those plots will shift to the right on the map. Turbonetics also didnt plot below 70000 rpm compressor speed so I extrapolated map a little lower taking a guess where map would be. Dont know how accurate that lower part is, but helps to give a visual reference. That dotted line is the surge line. Best practice to keep to the right of that line. It looks like you would be riding it at roughly 5000 rpm.
Ok i felt good about my power on 8psi. moved up and got 212whp on 13.4 psi. First run was really rich, but when I leaned it out my old friendly FM clutch reared its ugly head again. So i guess for now I have to hang it up until I can afford the supermiata twin disc.
You mention you got it used so I have to wonder if you looked at the instructions which can be found on the FM website. There are some basic adjustments that have to be made. It's not a bolt on and go afair.
You mention you got it used so I have to wonder if you looked at the instructions which can be found on the FM website. There are some basic adjustments that have to be made. It's not a bolt on and go afair.
I did read the instructions. It appears the problem would be the car not going in gear, the adjustment would fix that. Mine goes in gear fine and has plenty of free travel at the top of the pedal so it is not riding the TOB. To me that is proper adjustment.
I did read the instructions. It appears the problem would be the car not going in gear, the adjustment would fix that. Mine goes in gear fine and has plenty of free travel at the top of the pedal so it is not riding the TOB. To me that is proper adjustment.
Ok. FWIW I'm running 240kpa from a 6258 and my FM1 is holding beautifully. I took the time to follow their very specific instructions because I believe they know more about their clutch than I do.
I am completely willing to try anything that may work before spending more money. I just dont see how if my TOB isnt touching the clutch PP how any type of adjustment will help. A few hours of normal driving will make it feel good as new but any time I go for an aggressive launch or flatshift it starts glazing and slipping again. Today happened to be me playing with the flatshift. Was trying to get a dragy time/mph to correlate with my VD numbers.
I will try the adjustment as soon as it dries up here.
Years ago before I swapped to automatic transmission I used an act extreme pressure plate (mz012x i think) and a cheap ebay 6 puck sprung miba disc. I believe that combo was rated for 405lbs torque. Pressure plate is $295 new at summit racing, disc can be had for ~$50 ebay. Be warned though. heavy pedal on almost on/off modulation. If you are using launch control and flat shifting I would imagine your transmission, diff or axle would break before that clutch slipped. I broke several 5 speeds with it anyways lol..
Drove it to work today its already getting better. I'm going to adjust it after work before i go home. I spent good money on this setup so hopefully it works after adjustment but I dont see it helping.
@SpartanSV The adjustment seemed to help. It stopped slipping completely for regular wot pulls. Havent tried launching it yet though.
Found a good deal on a skunk2 manifold. Took the car apart to deal with some small issues I had and I'm waiting for the manifold to put it back together. Going to put on one of my old mustang throttle bodies, move all the boost piping to 2.5 inch, polish the inside of the exhaust manifold, and build some type of CAI before the turbo to get my filter away from that manifold. Thinking about having the manifold, turbine housing, and downpipe ceramic coated while I wait on the manifold.
How important is the coolant reroute deal? I see everyone has it but i havent seen any high temps so far so its been on my mind but not a big issue to me.
Also, how far can I take this stock NB fuel system? I've got injectors but when will I need more?
07-03-2020, 06:08 PM
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