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Old Aug 23, 2012 | 12:34 PM
  #1  
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Default My rusty AutoX toy

Hey everyone,

I purchased a white 1991 Miata back in February with 142,000 miles for $150.

All it needed was a new battery and a 80amp fuse to get it running.

Since then I have been competing in autocross events with it, in the Maryland area.

I inevitable ran into Soviet at a couple of these events.

This conjured up some quite expensive ideas.

I plan to have the car turbo'ed by the spring of 2013. I plan to run with the 1.6, I may do internals on it, unless I am talked out of it. I want to run megasquirt, and I feel that this needs to be my first step toward awesomeness.

I will be starting a build thread in the near future.

Oh yeah here is a picture of the Bucket

Thanks For Looking

[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
Attached Thumbnails My rusty AutoX toy-img_6645.jpg   My rusty AutoX toy-img_6647.jpg  
Old Aug 23, 2012 | 12:54 PM
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Welcome! Sweet deal only $150!!
Old Aug 24, 2012 | 04:15 AM
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Thanks for joining, BThomas220!
Old Aug 24, 2012 | 04:28 AM
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Wow, that's one heck of a deal for $150. Welcome!
Old Aug 24, 2012 | 10:20 AM
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Sounds good. Cut out that rust before it spreads though, even if you dont fix it right away.
Old Aug 24, 2012 | 11:30 AM
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Hello!
If you want to stay cheap, I have a pair of megasquirt 2
Old Aug 24, 2012 | 11:40 AM
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If you are seriously considering doing internals on a motor there is absolutely no reason not to build a 1.8 instead of the 1.6.

Which clubs are you autoxing with up there?
Old Aug 24, 2012 | 11:51 AM
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Awesome deal for $150
Old Aug 24, 2012 | 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by shuiend
Which clubs are you autoxing with up there?

sounds like CDC if he met up with Soviet. and I agree. Buy a 1.8L and build that, then swap it in. 1.6Ls should be melted for scrap.
Old Aug 24, 2012 | 02:02 PM
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Thanks for the replies

Originally Posted by soviet
Hello!
If you want to stay cheap, I have a pair of megasquirt 2
I really was leaning toward MS3 but if the price is right...

Pm me.

Originally Posted by shuiend
If you are seriously considering doing internals on a motor there is absolutely no reason not to build a 1.8 instead of the 1.6.

Which clubs are you autoxing with up there?
You are right, I will begin my hunt for a 1.8.

Originally Posted by Braineack
sounds like CDC if he met up with Soviet. and I agree. Buy a 1.8L and build that, then swap it in. 1.6Ls should be melted for scrap.
Yeah I run with capital driving club. Don't you have a 1.6L
Old Aug 24, 2012 | 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by BThomas220
Don't you have a 1.6L
I fail, so you don't have to.
Old Aug 24, 2012 | 03:03 PM
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All glory to the 1.8L.
Old Aug 26, 2012 | 03:59 AM
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I can't think of any more fun you can have for $150.00, nice find!
Old Aug 26, 2012 | 02:13 PM
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1.6 glory. BP is for fagtards

OP, nice car. I would love a beater miata for auto-x only.
Old Aug 26, 2012 | 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by BThomas220
I really was leaning toward MS3 but if the price is right...
no, get the MS3X, its a million times better.
Old Aug 27, 2012 | 09:31 AM
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The "x" means expander card, which is just a $90 module with pre-built circuits on it. But I agree, get the expander.

I can build you a MS3x PNP for exactly 4.6 times what you paid for your car.

Last edited by Braineack; Aug 27, 2012 at 09:58 AM.
Old Aug 27, 2012 | 09:54 AM
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not a bad way to spend 150$, nice welcome
Old Aug 27, 2012 | 02:09 PM
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Brainy, I will probably be in touch with you about getting a MS3X built. I would like to get one running on the car while it has the 1.6 in it. Is there much involved with changing the ecu and tuning when I switch to a 1.8, or is it pretty trivial?
Old Aug 27, 2012 | 02:34 PM
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like one parameter in the software.
Old Aug 27, 2012 | 02:35 PM
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It really depends on how you go around your 1.8 swap. you can do it the lame, peon way and just use all 1.6 wiring harness, sensors, 1.6 ingiton and throttle body. Doing it this way is easy but... lame - No sequential unless you rewire your harness, poor timing accuracy, lame ingitor, tach signal comes from coils, etc etc etc.

Or, you can do it the right way and use a crank sensor, NB throttle body and NB knock sensor (or any other knock sensor). It's more involved but is superior.

Either way, all you would need to do is change configuration in tuner studio and wiring. You don't need to mod the MS3 in any way or form (other than add-on knock board).



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