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Old 08-23-2012, 01:34 PM   #1
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Default My rusty AutoX toy

Hey everyone,

I purchased a white 1991 Miata back in February with 142,000 miles for $150.

All it needed was a new battery and a 80amp fuse to get it running.

Since then I have been competing in autocross events with it, in the Maryland area.

I inevitable ran into Soviet at a couple of these events.

This conjured up some quite expensive ideas.

I plan to have the car turbo'ed by the spring of 2013. I plan to run with the 1.6, I may do internals on it, unless I am talked out of it. I want to run megasquirt, and I feel that this needs to be my first step toward awesomeness.

I will be starting a build thread in the near future.

Oh yeah here is a picture of the Bucket

Thanks For Looking

[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
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My rusty AutoX toy-img_6645.jpg   My rusty AutoX toy-img_6647.jpg  
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Old 08-23-2012, 01:54 PM   #2
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Welcome! Sweet deal only $150!!
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Old 08-24-2012, 05:15 AM   #3
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Thanks for joining, BThomas220!
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Old 08-24-2012, 05:28 AM   #4
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Wow, that's one heck of a deal for $150. Welcome!
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Old 08-24-2012, 11:20 AM   #5
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Sounds good. Cut out that rust before it spreads though, even if you dont fix it right away.
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Old 08-24-2012, 12:30 PM   #6
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Hello!
If you want to stay cheap, I have a pair of megasquirt 2
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Old 08-24-2012, 12:40 PM   #7
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If you are seriously considering doing internals on a motor there is absolutely no reason not to build a 1.8 instead of the 1.6.

Which clubs are you autoxing with up there?
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Old 08-24-2012, 12:51 PM   #8
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Awesome deal for $150
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Old 08-24-2012, 12:53 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
Which clubs are you autoxing with up there?

sounds like CDC if he met up with Soviet. and I agree. Buy a 1.8L and build that, then swap it in. 1.6Ls should be melted for scrap.
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Old 08-24-2012, 03:02 PM   #10
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Thanks for the replies

Quote:
Originally Posted by soviet View Post
Hello!
If you want to stay cheap, I have a pair of megasquirt 2
I really was leaning toward MS3 but if the price is right...

Pm me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
If you are seriously considering doing internals on a motor there is absolutely no reason not to build a 1.8 instead of the 1.6.

Which clubs are you autoxing with up there?
You are right, I will begin my hunt for a 1.8.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
sounds like CDC if he met up with Soviet. and I agree. Buy a 1.8L and build that, then swap it in. 1.6Ls should be melted for scrap.
Yeah I run with capital driving club. Don't you have a 1.6L
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Old 08-24-2012, 03:15 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BThomas220 View Post
Don't you have a 1.6L
I fail, so you don't have to.
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Old 08-24-2012, 04:03 PM   #12
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All glory to the 1.8L.
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Old 08-26-2012, 04:59 AM   #13
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I can't think of any more fun you can have for $150.00, nice find!
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Old 08-26-2012, 03:13 PM   #14
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1.6 glory. BP is for fagtards

OP, nice car. I would love a beater miata for auto-x only.
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Old 08-26-2012, 11:49 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BThomas220 View Post
I really was leaning toward MS3 but if the price is right...
no, get the MS3X, its a million times better.
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Old 08-27-2012, 10:31 AM   #16
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The "x" means expander card, which is just a $90 module with pre-built circuits on it. But I agree, get the expander.

I can build you a MS3x PNP for exactly 4.6 times what you paid for your car.

Last edited by Braineack; 08-27-2012 at 10:58 AM.
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Old 08-27-2012, 10:54 AM   #17
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not a bad way to spend 150$, nice welcome
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Old 08-27-2012, 03:09 PM   #18
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Brainy, I will probably be in touch with you about getting a MS3X built. I would like to get one running on the car while it has the 1.6 in it. Is there much involved with changing the ecu and tuning when I switch to a 1.8, or is it pretty trivial?
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Old 08-27-2012, 03:34 PM   #19
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like one parameter in the software.
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Old 08-27-2012, 03:35 PM   #20
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It really depends on how you go around your 1.8 swap. you can do it the lame, peon way and just use all 1.6 wiring harness, sensors, 1.6 ingiton and throttle body. Doing it this way is easy but... lame - No sequential unless you rewire your harness, poor timing accuracy, lame ingitor, tach signal comes from coils, etc etc etc.

Or, you can do it the right way and use a crank sensor, NB throttle body and NB knock sensor (or any other knock sensor). It's more involved but is superior.

Either way, all you would need to do is change configuration in tuner studio and wiring. You don't need to mod the MS3 in any way or form (other than add-on knock board).
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