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Old 08-09-2012, 12:19 PM   #21
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wanna see what staring at a super nova looks like?
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Old 08-09-2012, 12:21 PM   #22
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Old 08-09-2012, 01:51 PM   #23
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So I am not sure where the best place to start with this is, I don't want to create a build thread since I am still several months away from the weather getting cold enough that I can stop driving it for long enough to work on it.

So here are my thoughts at this point (12 hours in to deciding to get a turbo rather than an SC):

It would probably be cheaper to mix-n-match everything and fab some stuff, but seeing as I am a beginner I should probably be willing to pay more for a more bolt-on kit.

I know I want a programmable ECU, as a programmer and a person who likes tweaking things that is a given. I noticed the DIYPNP megasquirt builds that you guys do, and I was very interested.

The goal for the first round of mods is to make some more power for cheap, but in a way that will be upgradeable. If I can get ~170whp without getting new injectors/oil cooler/a bunch of that other stuff, that would be the place to start I would think. I do preffer quick spooling to something that will make 300+HP (not that I don't want to make 300HP, I just can't afford it right now), so I think the GT2560R is probably a pretty good fit (but certainly not set in stone, so I will take other suggestions).

So what is the best/cheapest way to get started? FM Voodoo, Begi, something other entirely? Do I need bigger injectors right away?

My thoughts are:

Step 1: Get a lower end kit, slap that baby on.
Step 2: Eventually get an FM Level 1 clutch happy meal (with the 10lb flywheel) either when I start to power up, or sooner if necessary (it probably will be necessary the way I drive).
Step 3: Bigger injectors and a customizable ECU (if I don't get that at first).
Step somewhere in the middle: 3" exhaust (I would be totally on top of doing that in step 1 if I have the money).

What do you guys think?
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Old 08-09-2012, 02:57 PM   #24
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Do the ecu first. Lean to tune when its harder to break things, then add the boost.
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Old 08-09-2012, 03:23 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
Do the ecu first. Lean to tune when its harder to break things, then add the boost.
I have heard this, and I have also heard don't bother, because tuning NA is different than tuning a turbo.

But if I were to buy one of the DIYPNPs that Brain et al. are building, I just plug it in and start tuning? No messing with the wiring harness?

Because I would do that next week if it is that simple!
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Old 08-09-2012, 03:29 PM   #26
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I believe thats how they are setting them up. But you're going to want to run 2 more wires up front so you can run sequential injection, you dont have to but it should idle better and give you better gas mileage, maybe gain a bit of power below 4k rpm.

Tuning is tuning, there are a whole lot of basics to learn that apply to every car, regardless of the engine setup or ecu. And hopefully after a couple months of tuning, reading about tuning theory, and applying it you can graduate from just being a button pusher who uses auto-tune, to being a real tuner and be able to made a pretty decent base map for the first start on your turbo.
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Old 08-09-2012, 03:33 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
But you're going to want to run 2 more wires up front so you can run sequential injection

considering he has a 99, there's nothing special he needs to do to run seq. injection...


Id' build you a MS3x, not a DIYPNP. DIYPNP is small potatoes, IMHO, like Hyman Roth.
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Old 08-09-2012, 03:40 PM   #28
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You're right. I googled it before I posted the first post but I guess the first hit on m.net was wrong, next couple hits agree with you.
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Old 08-09-2012, 03:43 PM   #29
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im never wrong.
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Old 08-09-2012, 04:22 PM   #30
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Quote:
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You're right. I googled it before I posted the first post but I guess the first hit on m.net was wrong, next couple hits agree with you.
m.net is always wrong.
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Old 08-09-2012, 05:03 PM   #31
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Sorry for the noob questions, but what can I say, I am a noob.

So from the install instructions here, it looks like all I need is some vacuum hose that runs to behind the passenger seat, and to install the AIT sensor (I still have the stock intake). I don't have a boost solenoid, right? Since I don't have a turbo yet?

Do I already have a WBo2 sensor, or do I need to buy/install one?

Also, I should mention that though I have a "winter car" (a 96 Lincoln Mark 8) the miata is my DD.

But if it is really as easy as it looks in the installation guide, I may do this next weekend.
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Old 08-09-2012, 05:17 PM   #32
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Yes you need to buy a wideband and install it. Its really simple to do. The innovate mtx looks like a winner right though I haven't been the happiest with the lc1's I've used. I was a fan of the lowest priced ntk, theoretically its the most accurate of the sub $300 widebands.
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Old 08-09-2012, 05:53 PM   #33
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Thanks for the help, Leafy.

Amazon gives me this. Amazon gives me this.
I do love the 2 day free shipping I get with Amazon Prime.

I just want to make sure everything involved with the MS3x install is bolt-on, as I don't have a garage yet, much less a welder/grinder/all that ----. From quick reading, it looks like some WBo2 sensors need a bung welded in the exhaust, which I can't do my self right now (obviously).

Also it is hard to read up on this while I am at work and 500 feet from my engine compartment where I can just look for this stuff.
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Old 08-09-2012, 06:09 PM   #34
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to get started? I would buy a car that is 90% done and change what you want need to change. that is what I did. while I saved boat loads of money, it can time to sort out all the issues.
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Old 08-09-2012, 06:13 PM   #35
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That innovate lc1 without a gauge should be 99 bucks, unless the price has gone up recently. Also the lc1 is the one's I've always had trouble with, you cannot mount them near anything hot or they will slowly die inside then stop communicating with the computer (through the LC1 programming port for only the wideband) and then they start not working entirely. My most recent one was a tank though, managed to get the housing a little melted on a fuel hardline and it would still work. They also dont like being mounted within 14 inches of a turbo even on an open engine bay formula car.
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Old 08-09-2012, 06:16 PM   #36
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You're not supposed to mount them in the stock location. The directions clearly indicate that.
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Old 08-09-2012, 06:18 PM   #37
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No, I mean the control box. the control box itself does not like being withing 14 inches of a turbo in a formula car. I'm a bit angry about that one. I had to tune that car with an 90's LM1 not connected to the ecu for e85 with a 19mm intake restrictor pre-turbo, what a nightmare.
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