Wassup guys, noob here :) (lots of pics)
04-29-2008, 02:13 PM
#22
18,
My car is a track car and I am into it for (mods alone) 12k. and there is still quite a bit to do.
Basically from what it sounds like get a 97-99 1.8L with a torsen 3.9 rear end, (spend the extra money and get the 99 because that is the most sought after head). Remove the engine and get yourself a POS 1.6 for the mean time. easiest way to make power is head work and turbo. If you dont care about low end then a t3/t4 may better suit you. Thats what I am running (I love it and it has almost NO lag). There are not as many ready made solutions for it but you will find that the general consensus is a t3/t4 is a powerhouse. my car is not properly tuned and i have 195 whp @14psi on a 1.6... currently I need to dyno and tune because I am running 18psi..
Once you break 250-300whp you start running into problems... EXPENSIVE problems like a new quaffe tranny $2800.
but besides that.. you can make 240 easily on a 1.8 with no headwork. but it sounds like you want to drag, and given your history, I'd say 240 wont be good enough for more than a few months.
As for beating a mustang.. think about this a mustand it like 205hp and weights close to 4k, miata with a little itty bitty turbo making 160 at ~2500lbs would **** all over a stang.
just food for thought
As for your suspension.. everyone here will recomend a different suspension but you have to remember many people here do autox and track days. If you want to slam it down get yourself a set of ground controls with a reasonable spring rate 400/300 fr/rr and you can drop it on the screws although if you want to put a set of 16's or 17's its already pretty low.
My car is a track car and I am into it for (mods alone) 12k. and there is still quite a bit to do.
Basically from what it sounds like get a 97-99 1.8L with a torsen 3.9 rear end, (spend the extra money and get the 99 because that is the most sought after head). Remove the engine and get yourself a POS 1.6 for the mean time. easiest way to make power is head work and turbo. If you dont care about low end then a t3/t4 may better suit you. Thats what I am running (I love it and it has almost NO lag). There are not as many ready made solutions for it but you will find that the general consensus is a t3/t4 is a powerhouse. my car is not properly tuned and i have 195 whp @14psi on a 1.6... currently I need to dyno and tune because I am running 18psi..
Once you break 250-300whp you start running into problems... EXPENSIVE problems like a new quaffe tranny $2800.
but besides that.. you can make 240 easily on a 1.8 with no headwork. but it sounds like you want to drag, and given your history, I'd say 240 wont be good enough for more than a few months.
As for beating a mustang.. think about this a mustand it like 205hp and weights close to 4k, miata with a little itty bitty turbo making 160 at ~2500lbs would **** all over a stang.
just food for thought
As for your suspension.. everyone here will recomend a different suspension but you have to remember many people here do autox and track days. If you want to slam it down get yourself a set of ground controls with a reasonable spring rate 400/300 fr/rr and you can drop it on the screws although if you want to put a set of 16's or 17's its already pretty low.
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04-30-2008, 11:09 AM
#26
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Western mass
Posts: 273
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yeah man that really sounds like good advise. i talked to a local friend and am set on getting the 1.8L for sure. as far as the torsen 3.9 rear i didnt know ALL 97-99's have that, which is great cause thats exactly the year i am starting to look at. 99 might be a little hard but ill try to nab that year specifically. for suspension i want to try autox and road coarses, but im not HARDCORE into it like some people here, so i just want something that will be LOW and COMFORTABLE, as this will be my daily driver. im actually going to start looking for a 97-99 as soon as one of my wifes cars is sold and we have some cash to drop on a miata. come september the subaru is getting parted and sold, and THATS when the fun will begin
good luck!
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04-30-2008, 05:57 PM
#27
Correction factor-97-99 is a rare Miata, why, it does not exist!
90-93=1.6 with 6" rear end and some came with VLSDs which are dead by now.
94-95.5=1.8 obd1 came with 7" rear end, some had Torsen some didn't, but they were all 4.1, not 3.9
95.5-97=same as above only obd2
98=does not exist!!!
99-00=newer body style and better flowing head, same block
01-up=high compression and variable timing ang redesigned again
Buy whatever you want! You can make around 250rwhp pretty reliably on a bone stock 1.8 motor, no need to build it, save yoursemlf money. If you buy a Miata with a blown motor, then it only makes sense to throw in at least some rods in there and get your OE pistons ceramic coated, and maybe do some headwork. The 99-00 head is the most sought after simply b/c it has better angles...why the **** am I still typing...use the search button to learn why!
$7K is a very reasonable budget IMO. but then again, I like to save a penny everywhere. Keep in mind, leave room for some 15x8's 6ULs and throw some 225's on there, anything else is just not good enough, I envy all who have them.
Build your own manifold and 3" DP and exhaust (or have your dad do it) and slap one of your Subby snails in there. You can get all your flanges from WieRtech, he is a member here and makes single and twin scroll turbo flanges for just about every turbo.
now quit being a ***** and go make a vid ripping it up in the Subby and come back, that or a vid of your wifey
Good Luck
Search:Read:Repeat
90-93=1.6 with 6" rear end and some came with VLSDs which are dead by now.
94-95.5=1.8 obd1 came with 7" rear end, some had Torsen some didn't, but they were all 4.1, not 3.9
95.5-97=same as above only obd2
98=does not exist!!!
99-00=newer body style and better flowing head, same block
01-up=high compression and variable timing ang redesigned again
Buy whatever you want! You can make around 250rwhp pretty reliably on a bone stock 1.8 motor, no need to build it, save yoursemlf money. If you buy a Miata with a blown motor, then it only makes sense to throw in at least some rods in there and get your OE pistons ceramic coated, and maybe do some headwork. The 99-00 head is the most sought after simply b/c it has better angles...why the **** am I still typing...use the search button to learn why!
$7K is a very reasonable budget IMO. but then again, I like to save a penny everywhere. Keep in mind, leave room for some 15x8's 6ULs and throw some 225's on there, anything else is just not good enough, I envy all who have them.
Build your own manifold and 3" DP and exhaust (or have your dad do it) and slap one of your Subby snails in there. You can get all your flanges from WieRtech, he is a member here and makes single and twin scroll turbo flanges for just about every turbo.
now quit being a ***** and go make a vid ripping it up in the Subby and come back, that or a vid of your wifey
Good Luck
Search:Read:Repeat
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04-30-2008, 08:24 PM
#29
not ALL have a torsen but im pretty sure it was the 97-99 (correct me if im wrong) that have the 3.9. I think 94-96 has a 4.1 and so does 00-04 then the new ones i think are back to the 4.3 because of the 6spd. I may be wrong on that one. 99 is NOT a neccessity but if you want a good engine build and you want to do head work, 99 head is the head to go with. once you do autox and a road course you wont go back to a drag strip because there is just too much sitting around for a 13sec thrill. Like i said, ground control allows you to adjust your ride hieght. comfortable means go with a decent spring rate and adjustable shocks for dd and Autox. General consensus here is dont ever buy KYB-AGX, I personally have never had them and havent had experience with them. A good place to look is on Pauls homepage, he has had many different miatas and writes about each of them. his site i think its www.miatamx-5.com it may not have a hiephen
good luck!
good luck!
Correction factor-97-99 is a rare Miata, why, it does not exist!
90-93=1.6 with 6" rear end and some came with VLSDs which are dead by now.
94-95.5=1.8 obd1 came with 7" rear end, some had Torsen some didn't, but they were all 4.1, not 3.9
95.5-97=same as above only obd2
98=does not exist!!!
99-00=newer body style and better flowing head, same block
01-up=high compression and variable timing ang redesigned again
Buy whatever you want! You can make around 250rwhp pretty reliably on a bone stock 1.8 motor, no need to build it, save yoursemlf money. If you buy a Miata with a blown motor, then it only makes sense to throw in at least some rods in there and get your OE pistons ceramic coated, and maybe do some headwork. The 99-00 head is the most sought after simply b/c it has better angles...why the **** am I still typing...use the search button to learn why!
$7K is a very reasonable budget IMO. but then again, I like to save a penny everywhere. Keep in mind, leave room for some 15x8's 6ULs and throw some 225's on there, anything else is just not good enough, I envy all who have them.
Build your own manifold and 3" DP and exhaust (or have your dad do it) and slap one of your Subby snails in there. You can get all your flanges from WieRtech, he is a member here and makes single and twin scroll turbo flanges for just about every turbo.
now quit being a ***** and go make a vid ripping it up in the Subby and come back, that or a vid of your wifey
Good Luck
Search:Read:Repeat
90-93=1.6 with 6" rear end and some came with VLSDs which are dead by now.
94-95.5=1.8 obd1 came with 7" rear end, some had Torsen some didn't, but they were all 4.1, not 3.9
95.5-97=same as above only obd2
98=does not exist!!!
99-00=newer body style and better flowing head, same block
01-up=high compression and variable timing ang redesigned again
Buy whatever you want! You can make around 250rwhp pretty reliably on a bone stock 1.8 motor, no need to build it, save yoursemlf money. If you buy a Miata with a blown motor, then it only makes sense to throw in at least some rods in there and get your OE pistons ceramic coated, and maybe do some headwork. The 99-00 head is the most sought after simply b/c it has better angles...why the **** am I still typing...use the search button to learn why!
$7K is a very reasonable budget IMO. but then again, I like to save a penny everywhere. Keep in mind, leave room for some 15x8's 6ULs and throw some 225's on there, anything else is just not good enough, I envy all who have them.
Build your own manifold and 3" DP and exhaust (or have your dad do it) and slap one of your Subby snails in there. You can get all your flanges from WieRtech, he is a member here and makes single and twin scroll turbo flanges for just about every turbo.
now quit being a ***** and go make a vid ripping it up in the Subby and come back, that or a vid of your wifey
Good Luck
Search:Read:Repeat
haha thanx man. you are typing cause you are helping me and i appreciate it
and i seriously DO appreciate the input, it seems VERY reasonable. thanx again
NOW....................
a couple shitty quality vids of my suby as requested, keep in mind my camera is the biggest pos photo camera so you can imagine the quality of clips, but at least you can see **** lol
first start right after 18g and supporting mods install:
starting to tune it via ecuflash and enginuity, doing the very first couple of datalogs untuned and running PIG RICH/ RIDICULOUSLY conservative at about 14psi:
whoopin up on my buddies 05 sti with a huge fpgreen turbo and front mount intercooler + all supporting mods:
a guy that has a built up eagle talon with a gt35r turbo wanted to run me and see if he could keep up running only 8psi, and failed lol
ill upload a couple more vids in a little bit if anyone is interested
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05-01-2008, 02:40 AM
#32
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 137
Total Cats: 0
Just read one of your post and see you have the 20G in. Only slightly less power than a green on pumpgas. What speed did you get up to in the race with your friends STi?
Last edited by silentbob343; 05-01-2008 at 02:56 AM.
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