Braineack

iTrader: (62)

my picture was to be used as illustrative purposes only.

r14 is not installed, it needs to be installed now. I didn't notice that before.

ScottyP3821

iTrader: (2)

Ok so I want to make sure I got this straight. Install 2.2k resistor on r14.

Jumper

1J&4s>Input 1 OUT
Input 1 IN> PA0
PE1>Relay 1 IN
Relay 1 OUT> 1Q

Is this correct?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

no, that's not correct.

I'll repeat myself:

1Q > Input1 IN
Input1 OUT > PE1
PA0 > Relay 1 IN
Relay 1 Out > 1J&4S

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Hey braineack, did you mean:

1Q > Relay1 IN
Relay1 OUT > PE1
PA0 > Input 1 IN
Input 1 Out > 1J&4S

????

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

no, i did not. i usually don't put outputs on input circuits. However, i do tend to put outputs on relays and inputs on inputs.

ScottyP3821

iTrader: (2)

So the picture of how I wired it is fine just add the resistor?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

my picture is probably wrong. go by my werds.


but yeah. when it's wired to activate the a/c without the MS in the mix, r14 is removed. Since you're sending it back to the ECU first now, you need that pull up.

I'm not exactly sure what circuit DIY used for the inputs, but I'm pretty sure that's a pull-up. you could steal one from an unused circuit on the board if you are desperate. I'm pretty sure r14 is 2.2K, but a 1K might work... I'd need to see pics of the top of the board to see what resistors might be unused and able to work. Probably there's a 2.2K reistor on the high side driver circuit that you aren't using.

ScottyP3821

iTrader: (2)

How about I pull r 38. It is part of the nitrous driver and I don't like nitrous. the resistor is colored red red red gold and to my knowledge that would be an ideal 2.2 k candidate.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

i think that's the one im talking about.

ScottyP3821

iTrader: (2)

Ok so I'm going to move the r38 2.2k to r14 and leave my jumper the way I have them and I should be good to go plug into the car and start without frying anything?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

that's the plan.

ScottyP3821

iTrader: (2)

Here's what I got I removed r38 and moved it r14. Just wanted to post a pic for reference.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

while you are in there, move the two wires going to 4C and 4D to SG from GND

ScottyP3821

iTrader: (2)

Ok will this add any other features.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

it will move the sensor grounds to the sensor ground plane.

ScottyP3821

iTrader: (2)

Car starts and runs like **** now with a bouncing idle before it dies. Where do I go from here.

ScottyP3821

iTrader: (2)

Ok accidentally forgot to plug the map in my bad but still no AC engagement.

Edit

Msq found here

https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...-my-msq-74292/

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

and you've made sure to setup the software for the correct inputs (PE1) and outputs (PA0).

ScottyP3821

iTrader: (2)

Got it to kick on now I guess I need to play with the idle and closed loop settings.

ScottyP3821

iTrader: (2)

This is such a pain in the ***. Do I have to use Closed Loop because PWM Warm up is easy and I suck at closed loop.