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Old 01-14-2009, 09:15 PM   #21
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Matt, any idea what pin you're using? Or Jason? Those four guys, would they know?
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Old 01-14-2009, 11:06 PM   #22
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I wired it into the hydra harness... but it's the one in the 99 manual called "generator field coil"
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Old 01-14-2009, 11:28 PM   #23
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This mod is fine and all, but wouldn't it be easier to just pick up an NA alternator and swap pulleys?

Just a thought.

Tony
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Old 01-15-2009, 05:00 AM   #24
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I can build this circuit in less than 30 minutes and it will cost me maybe $7 in parts. I can't do an alternator swap in less than 30 minutes and it will certainly not cost me $7.

Jim
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Old 01-15-2009, 09:32 AM   #25
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I have a spare GM alternator control box if anyone wants to do testing.
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Old 01-15-2009, 01:54 PM   #26
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The circuit doesn't need (more) testing, it's been used in four places.

I'm wondering what wire to put it on. But everything I can see, it looks like you want to put it on the wire I'm not using. I remember being confused at the time, since I had it on the other wire and it didn't work. When I put it on the gray/red wire, BAM, things were working. Maybe the wire colors are wrong in my book. Or... I dunno. I should check which ECU pin corresponds to the wire I'm using. Everyone PM teamplur and make him make me do it.
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Old 01-16-2009, 11:28 AM   #27
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Abe, do you have a 2000 and a 2000 FSM?
In my FSM the alternator field and neutral wire colors were swapped IIRC.
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Old 01-16-2009, 04:19 PM   #28
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Can a mod please change the subject to "Alternator..." instead of "Altenator..."?

Jim
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Old 01-16-2009, 05:57 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonC SBB View Post
Abe, do you have a 2000 and a 2000 FSM?
In my FSM the alternator field and neutral wire colors were swapped IIRC.
Oh good lord, that's what I was thinking... At least I can pretend to have SOME understanding of how the thing works. :-)

Yes, I'm pretty sure that would be the issue - I was going to check it on my car, but it's nice to have someone else verify it. I'll hopefully do that tonight. Sucks, though, since there's more vias now on my board. :-) But I'll take a board with more vias that works over one that doesn't work at all.
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Old 01-23-2009, 04:01 PM   #30
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o lookit wut i foundz!

sorry about the pictures. but maybe you can reverse engineer it to see if it's the same as jason's schema.
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Alternator Control box for standalone MS install for NB-dsc00633.jpg   Alternator Control box for standalone MS install for NB-dsc00634.jpg  
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Old 01-23-2009, 05:02 PM   #31
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since that sucked, here's something more fun.

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Old 01-23-2009, 06:16 PM   #32
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I guess since you labeled everything it means it checks out? :-)
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Old 01-24-2009, 09:44 AM   #33
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It seems I have a strange issue (apart from being a spelling **** apparently). The NAPA alternator control box works as long as the stock ECU is in place: I feed B+ to the blue wire, and I get PWM on the green wire (note that the green wire in not connected to anything). I remove the stock ECU, start the car with the MS2 (standalone) and I get nothing on the green wire (voltage is at ~11.5V on the blue wire). What gives?

Jim
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Old 01-24-2009, 11:27 AM   #34
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you got me. maybe re-verify your power source or tap right into the ig switch "on while running" circuit instead of the ECU pin?
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Old 01-24-2009, 02:46 PM   #35
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Jason, thx for an other great circuit.
I reordered the components a bit so they fit in the proto area, pretty neat if I say so myself. On the bottom right side of the layout, you'll notice 2 unused spaces. This corresponds with the 2 missing holes in the proto area.
As the circuit only uses 50% of the proto area, there's room enough for other stuff like EBC, Vics and Fan mods.
There's probably not enough room to fit Abe's input circuits, but I built those in the VR area of the board.
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Alternator Control box for standalone MS install for NB-alternator.png  

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Old 01-24-2009, 07:05 PM   #36
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re-installed the circuit today and it holds system voltage nicely just under 15V. if I switch on everything (heads, fogs, defrost, heater fan full, hold brake, and hold both window switches) it maintains about 14V. probably less if the fans come on. all at idle. I guess my alt is ok?
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Old 01-25-2009, 12:16 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y8s View Post
o lookit wut i foundz!

sorry about the pictures. but maybe you can reverse engineer it to see if it's the same as jason's schema.
LOL that sure looks like my handiwork.

I have another circuit for lighting the warning light when voltage drops < 12.9V (as opposed to the typical light that means the alternator is putting out current, even if it's not enough to keep the battery charged).
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Old 01-25-2009, 08:11 AM   #38
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Interested to see the schematic Jason.
BTW, is it necessary to use the 2% version of the TL431? Datasheet says 'guaranteed thermal stability over applicable temperature ranges'. Local shop dude looked at me like a cow to an airplane when I asked for a 2% version.
Also, I assume the 48K7 regulates current? I have little electrical stuff in my Westfield so I might need to lower current on my setup.

Last edited by WestfieldMX5; 01-25-2009 at 08:38 AM.
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Old 01-25-2009, 11:48 AM   #39
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You can use a 1%.

If you use one looser than 2%, you can trim ithe 48.7k resistor to get the exact voltage if it's off a bit.

The circuit regulates voltage, not current.
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Old 01-25-2009, 10:52 PM   #40
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I think the schematic is above?

Quote:
Originally Posted by f_devocht View Post
Jason, thx for an other great circuit.
I reordered the components a bit so they fit in the proto area. Only 6x7 holes are used.
Of the 42 holes, only one remains unused (left from C2), pretty neat if I say so myself.
As the circuit only uses 50% of the proto area, there's room enough for other stuff like EBC, Vics and Fan mods.
There's probably not be enough room to fit Abe's input circuits, but I built those in the VR area of the board.
Wow, that's a nice lay out, I like it - and all without resorting to unusual stacking methods. You know, with a couple of those posted, it might be possible to come up with a "standard" NB install.
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