hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

Good to see people using this. Anyone foresee long term issues with ABS and heat? I have been waiting to market these until I get my printer setup for polycarbonate, but maybe my worries are over blown? Glass transition temps are roughly 105 and 140 degrees C, respectively.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

I've been using ABS parts around radiators for quite a while. Don't know if that's the same as something attached to the engine mass though.

Really cool design Sean!

Joseph Conley

I don't have many hours on mine yet but Ill keep you posted. If anything funny happens with this one I'll print another one and try acetone bathing it.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

I have a grand total of about 30 minutes of run time on mine. 110+ ambient though. Doesnt even get really warm, but im not really heat soaking the engine bay, and I have all the intake/TB "coolant" (warmant?) lines removed and barbs plugged.

bhop_alex

How did you repin the connector? I can't figure out how to get the pins out :( I'm using the same kia tps btw, and I swapped the 5v and sig wires at the ecu end with no improvement to my issue. In TunerStudio when I have closed throttle, my value is 165 and at WOT my value is 53, so I'm guessing the ground is swapped with another wire.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Why would you be repinning? The whole point is not to repin... Your ground is fine, swap the signal and 5v

bhop_alex

I figured it out, it wasn't the 5v and sig.. I tried swapping those at the ecu. I had to swap 5v and ground to get it to read right on tuner studio. I got one of the TPS you linked before in reply to my post, so maybe the pins were different inside that one than most? I'm not really sure, but I know that all the docs that said to swap 5v and sig were not working for me lol. I have everything working in my setup now, but it just cranks and cranks, never turns.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Sounds like you sent 5v straight to ground then. Figuring out the pins is easy with a dmm.

irollgen4s

Has anyone experienced an issue where regardless which way the red and green wires are connected, the throttle signal stays inverted? I had my TPS harness wires swapped for a while now without issue while running an FM VTPS kit, but now that the sensor has gone noisy i've replaced it with the Kia sensor and bracket to save a couple bucks. I've swapped the wires back and forth and just can't get it figured out, any ideas? 1990 short nose running ms2.

bhop_alex

Yes, it isn't just them, the third one has to be switched too. Just try all the combinations until you get it right, that's what I had to do.

irollgen4s

A knowledgeable moderator let me know that TS will let me calibrate it with the values being opposite regardless.. So for now the issue is fixed. Will go back due to OCD and try to figure it out in the future though.

bhop_alex

Hmmm, ok. It didn't work like that for me when I was setting it up, but that was months ago.

irollgen4s

Simply calibrate the TPS as normal, regardless of the higher value input being for no throttle and the low value being for full throttle. TS will ask you if you are sure you want the values this way, accept and do it 2-3 times and it will calibrate normally and operate as it should. Posting to help out anyone like myself who may find themselves in a similar situation.

lsdlsd88

I've read "SOMEWHERE" that it's not healthy to do this because the MS code will SOMETIMES use the raw adc value instead of the calibrated tps% fors SOME calculations.

google should get you some other details..

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

Im pretty sure all 3 iterations of my vtps were "backwards" and ive never had an issue afaik.

lsdlsd88

can't thank you enough, I've just finished converting my 1.6 to VTPS.

bought the TPS on ebay UK for a ridiculus 8 pounds shipped ( object 182634520178 )

printed the bracket at a local shop for 15 eur.

bolted straight on!

another thing to consider is that I've seen people having to take out the CF to be able to replace the TPS.
in my case it was enough to pop the plastic cover of the OEM TPS, slide out the cover, then the TPS itself.

reassembly: first the 3d printed bracket, then the tps, then screw everything in and JOB DONE.

huesmann

iTrader: (1)

Wouldn't something like this be the easy button, instead of futzing with jewelers screwdrivers repinning or cutting the thing open to adjust internal connections?

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

Are you running a PNP?

huesmann

iTrader: (1)

No. Gonna be trying a Speeduino.

lsdlsd88