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Old 09-25-2007, 10:31 AM   #1
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Default base timing

just curious what the boosted MS folks are running for mechanical base timing. I haven't touched mine yet so it's still stock. thoughts/opinions?
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Old 09-25-2007, 10:48 AM   #2
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Stock ?
Your gonna blow your motor if your timing is set at the standard 10 degrees.
E.g If you have a Greddy kit at 6PSI then your timing should be at 6 degrees.
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Old 09-25-2007, 10:49 AM   #3
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Base timing serves only one purpose when running a standalone-- to syncronize the ECU with the crank position. You don't do any 'trickery' by changing base timing to advance/retard your ignition curve like you might do with your stock ECU. You only do that with you stock ECU because you can't program it, so by advancing/retarding your base timing you essentially shift the ENTIRE map up or down, it's a bandaid at best. If you want more or less ignition timing with your standalone, just tune it in .

Use 10, 15, 20, whatever you want when you set base timing with a standalone. It makes no difference at all as long as whatever you command with the ECU matches what you read with the timing light then they are in sync and you're ready to tune.
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Old 09-25-2007, 10:54 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fergus View Post
Stock ?
Your gonna blow your motor if your timing is set at the standard 10 degrees.
E.g If you have a Greddy kit at 6PSI then your timing should be at 6 degrees.
I run base timming at 18 psi motor still holding strong.
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Old 09-25-2007, 10:56 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FoundSoul View Post
Base timing serves only one purpose when running a standalone-- to syncronize the ECU with the crank position. You don't do any 'trickery' by changing base timing to advance/retard your ignition curve like you might do with your stock ECU. You only do that with you stock ECU because you can't program it, so by advancing/retarding your base timing you essentially shift the ENTIRE map up or down, it's a bandaid at best. If you want more or less ignition timing with your standalone, just tune it in .

Use 10, 15, 20, whatever you want when you set base timing with a standalone. It makes no difference at all as long as whatever you command with the ECU matches what you read with the timing light then they are in sync and you're ready to tune.

that was what my gut was telling me. :-)

think the spark maps on the PNP msq are on the agressive side for boosted driving, and i should back them off a bit? or just take it slow and listen/check my plugs for signs of det frequently?
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Old 09-25-2007, 11:01 AM   #6
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I tried to er them on the safe side, but it depends on your setup to be quite honest-- I've tuned boosted Miatas that needed more timing than that, and I tuned at least one that would have grenaded itself with that map and I had to pull some timing out and dial it in.

The only way to tune timing properly is on a dyno, period. A load bearing dyno at that, not a simple inertia dyno. Or you can play the guessing game, many have played, occasionally someone does OK .
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Old 09-25-2007, 11:03 AM   #7
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yeah. i have access to a Dyno Dynamics dyno in a couple weeks. just looking to get somthing i can drive the car home with, in the meantime. i'll pull a bit from the whole map and call it a day, until i can get it on there.
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Old 09-25-2007, 11:07 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fergus View Post
Stock ?
Your gonna blow your motor if your timing is set at the standard 10 degrees.
E.g If you have a Greddy kit at 6PSI then your timing should be at 6 degrees.

you forget you're in the Megasquirt forum son!


base timing here means playing with a 12x12 map :gay:
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Old 09-25-2007, 07:56 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
you forget you're in the Megasquirt forum son!
base timing here means playing with a 12x12 map :gay:
Yup, I popped in WAY to quick with that one !
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