OK so as I mentioned with the 3.2.4 firmware the ECU was not seeing one of the cam signals for some reason. I then flashed the ECU to 3.2.1. It would sync and after checking all of the settings I go tit running again which was great.

But now, as soon as I connect the wiring for the solenoid is looses sync instantly. If it is running as soon as I connect the wires it looses sync, but as soon as I disconnect them again it will run again.

If I hook it up with the car off it will crank fine and sync, but as soon as it fires up it dies again. It keeps going back and forth while cranking it syncs but as soon as it fires up and stops cranking it does again.

I attached some logs in case someone has an idea of what is going on. I looked over the wiring and nothing is grounding to the chassis anywhere. Should I just try to reflash another firmware?

 

Here is another log of the car running. and me hooking up the wires.

 

If open loop runs fine, then it means the wiring should be good (uses the same wires). Does open loop still work OK?

 

Nope, It looses sync when the wires are hooked up in open loop, closed loop, and with it turned off.

 

OK. At least that makes sense.

You've definitely got a short somewhere.

Anyway, I would start at the ECU connector and depin the EBC wire (you can ohm it first, might tell you something -- things can be shorted without "looking" shorted). Let's see if it's inside our outside the ECU. From there, just use a building block approach and try to see exactly which step causes the sync loss. That should give a clear indication of the issue.

 

I've been saying that!

 

So if I am following you correctly I can de-pin the factory wire so it doesn't go to the MS and then see what it does?

I am guessing if I power up the BC with the blue plug but it is shoring somewhere then the car will still die since there is a short from the wiring to the chassis or something somewhere? I am not really that good at diagnosing electrical issues yet. It just seems strange that it worked before, but now it doesn't.

Sounds to me like this might be easier if I just bring the BC wire into the MS with the DB15 connector in the future. I could just easily unplug it to see if there is a short somewhere. I don't know why I went into the factory harness to run the BC.

 

Also what do you mean my ohm it first? How would checking the resistance help find a short? I am open to learn.

 

Surprised that your EBC has been spliced into the factory harness.

Splicing/slicing factory harness should be avoided if possible.

If you depin that wire, you "should" isolate whatever you've done outside the ECU from the ECU. If the ECU is OK, then the car should not die, and you know to focus outside. If the car dies, then the problem could be in the box or perhaps some other wire you've spliced.

Here's a question for you . . . what, EXACTLY, do you mean when you say "me hooking up the wires"? Which wires? Be precise.

 

~0 ohms means continuity. You can check for continuity to chassis ground or to positive. Neither should be present. If you prefer, you can use your diode check function and listen for a steady (not momentary) beep.

 

On the diagram of how I wired the solenoid I posted before, I had the switch on the wire between the solenoid and the MS. I took the switch out, and just hooked the two ends of the wire together. I took a short 2" piece of wire with a blade connector on each end so I could connect the two ends together, but I could still add the switch if needed.

The switch wasn't the highest quality toggle switch, so I figured I would take it out to remove one potential variable.

 

OK, so just to clarify:

(+)--------(solenoid)--------(blade connector)--------(DIYPNP EBC Input)

If the blade connector is together, then the DIYPNP loses sync. It does this no matter which selection for EBC you've made in software (either OFF, Open Loop or Closed Loop).

If the blade connector is apart, then the DIYPNP operates normally, again no matter which selection for EBC you've made in software.

That means that you've verified the wiring is OK at least until the blade connector on the DIYPNP side. So, next step is to investigate the rest of the wiring leading to the solenoid. Also, check the solenoid function. With the ignition switch ON (so there is +12VDC on the "blue" connector), if you tap the blade connector to a convenient screw head you should hear the solenoid click. The click should close your tubing to the wastegate actuator (verify by blowing through).

 

So last night I had a chance to look into this. I checked for a short from the side of the blade connector which runs to the solenoid. I checked on multiple grounds and other bolts and did not find a short to that end of the blade connector

I then checked on the other end of the connector which runs to the MS. Again using multiple grounds and bolts there was no short.

I checked between the different grounds and bolts I was using just to make sure that they would show continuity and they did.

I then checked the same as I did above with the ignition turned on and got the same results. I also checked the voltage and I was seeing 12.4V on the side to the solenoid and the other end to the MS had 0V between it and ground. The bade ends were not connected when I did this. So that looks good to me.

I then tapped blade from the solenoid to ground and you could hear the solenoid close.

I then connected the blade connectors so the ECB was wired up and the car started just fine. Unfortunately, I didn't have my laptop with me so I couldn't turn on open or closed loop to see if it was working. I might have a chance to try it tonight, but it might be Saturday before I get a chance to look into it more.

I will post up what happens when I have a chance.

 

have you ever thought about checking inside the DIYPNP?

 

I looked inside when I updated the firmware, but I didn't see anything that looked shorted or blown.

Now that it isn't loosing sync with the wiring hooked up, I will check to see if open and closed loop work. If it still acts up then I will go through the DIYPNP again with a lot closer attention to detail.

Zach

 

So today I finally got chance to mess with the car during lunch. With the wires hooked up the car would run, but I didn't get any increase in boost over the wastegate level. I am guessing that something is off before between where I connected the wires and the MS. I am thinking on just wiring it so instead of going through the factory harness I will use the DB15 connector.

 

Just had some more thoughts on it. I did check that the solenoid was working by grounding the end of the connector so you could hear it click.

I believe that after I updated the firmware that the Boost controller settings still had the input being PAO, but I need to check and make sure that was what I used. I am 99% sure that was correct.

 

Just to put an end to this I finally got everything fixed. I brought the boost control signal into the MS by the DB15 connector and things are working well. I am in the process of tuning closed loop BC. I am getting there. Just need to fix overshoot on the top end when the throttle is applied since the turbo spools so fast, but I am getting there.

 

I'm having very similar issues to what you had. Again with a diypnp.
Every time the solenoid activates the rpms drop to 0. You said wiring through the db15 solved you issues, is this correct? What was your boost input, PA0?

 

you have faulty wiring and youre introducing a short.