Ok, I'm installing MS finally and I've been reading every thread that has something useful in it, just making sure I know what is going on. I loath electronics so I've never really messed with anything but I'm trying to learn.

1) When it says tap into an existing line....how is the best way to do this? The only way I know/have seen are those crimp connector things, is there a better way to 'tap' a wire?

2) For the AEM, the ground/power should be shared with MS for best results...should I tap into the cars harness or the ms' harness?

3) What to do with the IAT for now? It is stock intake with a cone on it...should I just be very ghetto and drill a hole in the intake and stick it in?

4) Other than shooting a code, I can install the Wideband in place of the stock O2 just so I can see what is going on right?

 

1. Means to splice into a wire. Usually the easiest way(imo) is to cut the wire you are splicing into, and wire all 3 of them together via wire nut, soldering, etc.

2. I was wondering this myself, we will see if anyone chimes in. I currently have mine powered by the radio, and grounded there too. I was planning on changing this for more accurate readings, or just in case. But i have no idea where to tap the power from. I know i will ground it where the MS grounds though.

3. I would drill the hole, and jb weld in the bung. With no boost there is no fear or it popping out under pressure, so it shouldn't be that big of a deal.

4. Why do this if you are running ms?

Maybe I helped a little, gl.

 

Its in parallel so I need to get the NB so the stock ECU wont get pissed, however, I don't feel like putting in another O2 bung right now because I'll be installing the DP in the next week or two and putting both O2s back in.

Didn't think about the wire nut way, no issues with vibration and stuff when installing in the car?

 

The only thing that will happen is the ECU will throw a code...no biggie.


As far as taping in, are you talking about the wbo2 input left dangling on the harness? get your self a bag of quick disconnects with the built in shrink wrap. crimp each end to the wire, and hit it with a lighter to seal it. Then if you ever need to remove you can pull the connection apart.

I didn't realize you are just now getting to installing that thing!

 

Personally, I solder everything I install in my car. I don't think id recommend a wire nut, but I was using it as an example of how-to.

 

I meant the fuel pump wire under the dash, which, I'll prolly just do the jumper mod at first. And the AEM needs power/ground so I figured there too and where to pull it from.

The Wideband input you have setup as a plug in solution type thing.

Not sure what you mean quick disconnects? I understand butt connectors and all that fun stuff, not joining 1 wire with another when its right in the middle of the other.

 

Screw going under the dash; just jump the darn thing in the diagnostics box and call it a day.

 

lol, you still doing that? Good enough for me.

Ok, well what about power and grounds for the AEM then? The nut a bad idea? or one of those weird tap connectors?

I'll just drill some awesome holes and jb for the IAT bung tonight/tomorrow and let it sit so that will be taken care of.

 

For me personally I jumped the power and ground off the boomslang harness itself and ran them into that middle connector.

 

Gotcha.

I suppose I will attempt this Weds and see if I can do it without breaking anything.


And yeah, it has taken me a LONG time to get around to doing this. School > me.

 

So...according to the pinout, power is 1B, the white/red and ground could be 2C Black/Gr or 2A Black?

or their corresponding wires on the boomslang...sounds right.

 

sounds right to me:

http://www.boostedmiata.com/MS/harness_MS_pinouts.jpg

 

Awesome.

Thanks.