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Old 10-05-2009, 03:59 PM   #21
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ill go ahead and do it, i just gotta dl the firmware.
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Old 10-05-2009, 04:17 PM   #22
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Hey, when you load two firmwares into tuner studio, doesn't it tell you the differences? I really want to figure out why mine tries to make the motor run backwards, and yours doesn't. The timing is right on, too. It sparks just where I tell it to (TDC, +/-10* depending where I set it) but the whole motor shakes and otherwise behaves silly.

No idea why, but since I wanted to come up with a clean fresh install on my own car I want to understand this!
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Old 10-05-2009, 07:41 PM   #23
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Nah, if you load similar firmwares (i.e. updates), it doesnt really show which revision on the MS board itself, except when your car is connected to the computer. On the top title screen of TunerStudio, youll see the current code being used on the MS. Mine shows 09-12, which means the latest 3.0.3 alpha code.

It's kinda hard to decipher which firmware is being used when you load them into a new project. Thats why for every new firmware that is made/updated, I have a separate project for each one.
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Old 10-05-2009, 09:28 PM   #24
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Yeah, that's a good idea. Mostly I like TS, impressed with it. But it can only work with the stuff the MS guys provide, and their naming conventions are straight up terrible.

But, if you loaded your MSQ on (say, for 2.1.0) and burned it, then opened my MSQ it'll pop up a list of differences. I might try this on my friend's car later.

BTW, at some point, you should check the polarity of the VICS solenoid, I think it's supposed to activate at high RPM, I forget if it's a "1" or a "0". Easy to check, set the switch point to 1500 rpm and blip the gas, see what it does.
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Old 10-05-2009, 11:46 PM   #25
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you know, thanks for the tpi on that VICS. I was thinking the car didnt have much oompf at the higher RPM range, that could be it.
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Old 10-06-2009, 02:29 AM   #26
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I just read this:
Marc - could you post, in the main thread, the last MSQ you have for use with the "stable" 2.1.0 release code? Actually, swap the coil polarity so no one cooks their set up, then save the MSQ. We can post it in the main 'baseline" thread, and people will be able to plug in the board, d/l the stable version of the code (easier to find release versions), put on the MSQ and start driving.

I assume you mean change it from marc's COP settings which should be INVERTED, to the old setting (If using good old coils and spark plug wires) of NON INVERTED.
I work 2nd shift now, I just got home a few minutes ago. The last post I just uploaded my firmware which was ms2extra_alpha20090912. If I remember, this is MS2Extra Rel 3.0.3h. As for the .msq I had dowloaded the one Marc uploaded today on this thread, but I also downloaded I think the 1st one he ever uploaded to https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t38677/
I am going to quick review the new one I just downloaded and then perhaps upload it and start my car.
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Old 10-06-2009, 02:44 AM   #27
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Just reviewed it and I click on Basic Setup, then TachInput/Igniton Settings. Spark Output is already set to Going Low (Normal) which is NON INVERTED. Marc, I thought you were running Inverted?
I also noticed that the required fuel setting was at 7.0? Are you still running stock injectors? Aside from that, I can't think of anything else that would F up my car if I tried to run this .msq.
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Old 10-06-2009, 02:50 AM   #28
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Sorry.

I am using 440cc injectors.

I originally had it set up to use Joe's spark mods, then I reverted back to the standard mods because of the non-starting issue, I wanted to make sure that wasnt a factor in the engine not being able to start. I haven't put joe's mods back since I've been lazy to pull out the MS from my car. It sucks getting it in an out, esp on an NB. If it was placed like it was on the NA, I wouldn't have a problem with going in there and removing it.
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Old 10-06-2009, 03:01 AM   #29
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Yeah I understand that. I'd rather slide my passengers seat front instead of standing on my head. I just opened and old MS-1 parallel .msq I had saved.
Required fuel: 13.2.
I'll make my changes, burn it, and turn the key.
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Old 10-06-2009, 03:04 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thirdgen View Post
Yeah I understand that. I'd rather slide my passengers seat front instead of standing on my head. I just opened and old MS-1 parallel .msq I had saved.
Required fuel: 13.2.
I'll make my changes, burn it, and turn the key.
Great, try it, let me see how it goes.
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Old 10-06-2009, 03:23 AM   #31
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So I just loaded this to the MS after I made my changes for stock injectors.
NEWms2.msq
I turned the key and it went crank, crannnnnkkkkk, and that was it. DEAD. So now my car is on the battery tender till tomorrow morning. What a kick to the NUTS.
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Old 10-06-2009, 03:53 AM   #32
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Do you have COPs?

You need to adjust the dwell times if you arent using COPs.
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Old 10-06-2009, 01:40 PM   #33
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Heh, same thing happened here on my buddy's car. Luckily, he is/was prepared, he has like 10 different emergency start tools. His car was plugged into the wall for basically a day or two. :-P
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Old 10-06-2009, 01:57 PM   #34
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I had my car on the battery tender all night. I tried it this morning. Plugged in the laptop and opened tuner studio, hit the clutch, turned the key while pumping the gas a little bit. THE MIATA STARTED RIGHT UP!!!!
It sits there and idles great...pulls 21inHg vacuum, it idles between 1200-1300RPM. I shot it with my timing light and it is dead on as compared to tuner studio. The AFR at idle is like 13:1 after it's warmed up. Cold start idle is like 12:1 AFR. So obviously I need to make so fuel table changes, no biggy. As for the dwell times, I didn't touch em. The only mod I made to Marc's .msq was 13.2 required fuel for the stock injectors.
1 thing though...my battery light was on while running, it was kinda dim though, but it was on. It's weird, cause my battery tender never made a full charge and once the car started I unplugged the tender. After I shut the car off, I plugged the tender back in and it gave a green light meaning "full charge".
Anyway, it's running and I actually notice a difference over when it was MS-1 parallel. I have my MS on the floor of the car plugged into the PNP board with a DB37 extention cable. I have to mount my MS under the dash in "the spot" and clean up (wire tie) some stuff out of the way of my feet and knees, and then it should be test and tune time. Wastegate is get for 7psi, but I'm still gonna be gentle.
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Old 10-06-2009, 01:59 PM   #35
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THANKS AGAIN MARC and ABE!
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Old 10-06-2009, 02:40 PM   #36
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Noooooo problem! They idle pretty darned smooth once you get it set up, it's kinda nice. Mine will idle anywhere from 12.0 or 11.5 to ~18.0:1

There's a "battery voltage gauge" in the tuner programs, and it's recorded in your logs. Check it at some point and make sure it's charging. In my experience the dim light goes off once you're battery gets above some minimum voltage.

Hey, you have to change your signature now. :-P
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Old 10-06-2009, 02:47 PM   #37
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So you think I should get the AFR straightened out a bit and then drive it and log it? I'm pumped now. Another question though...when my car was MS-1 parallel my timing at idle was 17* advanced. Stock 99 miata is 10*advanced, and in MarcD's .msq it is 14* advanced. What is the reasoning? Just a MarcD preference? Or was this set to compensate for high idle...
As for me adjusting my idle screw, I will not touch it. It has to be set right by the MS settings, that's just how I feel. Definately not a mechanical issue. As for the signature change...comin right up!
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Old 10-06-2009, 03:10 PM   #38
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You can log anytime! I always log a first start. Not that I often use it, but let's face it, hard drives are cheap and you can log hundreds of hours before it matters. But you can't go back and check something you didn't log.

My idle timing is all over the place, I add a bunch in for low idle just to keep it from stalling (and my car will happily creep along in 2nd, uphill, at 400 rpm with 550 injectors).

If you have any serious intentions of idling closed loop ever, I would move the idle screw. If not, I guess it doesn't matter a lot. I do like having the ability to control my idle anywhere I'd like via software (what if it was raining out and I just HAD to tweak my idle? ha)... But all that... Doesn't matter! Congrats on getting the car running.

BTW, Marc, I flattened out the tables down low and it made getting the idle and injector opening times much easier. I just took the bottom 5x5 or so of the table and set it flat.
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Old 10-06-2009, 03:55 PM   #39
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It was a personal preference thing. I could always change it back to 17.

Glad its running man!

Cool abe, whatever helps the people get their stuff up and running. So do we now have three successes? aha

Im going to try closed loop idle again, I think I found the problem with it. If I get it running good, I will post my settings on it. Then when I get back home from sac, I'll play with the boost control settings.

Abe, what was the distance from the crank to the teeth supposed to be again? I thin kthat could be the issues of the sync losses. Overall vibrations possibly.
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Old 10-06-2009, 05:36 PM   #40
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I don't know off the top of my head. I thought it was 20-40 thousandths. Basically as close as it can be without touching. :-) I'll look it up at home if I manage to remember. :-)
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