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-   -   Check my Tables Please (https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquirt-18/check-my-tables-please-63878/)

redturbomiata 02-29-2012 05:17 PM

Check my Tables Please
 
2 Attachment(s)
Hey guys im getting ready to start autotunning and want to double check my afr target table. curly sent me a picture of his table and i copyed it, so i figure it will get it close.
Thanks

sccaax 02-29-2012 08:18 PM

I would recommend just under stoich at idle - about 14-14.5 works for a more stable idle. 15.5 at 5000rpm is a bit high. Also 15.5 at 70kPa is a bit high. Consider dropping both a bit. Also want to be closer to 13:1 at 100kPa for optimum performance and to keep you from blowing the motor. Numbers in the high kPa look decent.

Techsalvager 02-29-2012 08:42 PM

1 Attachment(s)
My setups for my street car.

Speed Density

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1330566178

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

MAF
Still fine tuning this one

http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/9285/maftable.png

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

hornetball 02-29-2012 09:24 PM

The following is copied from a post I made here: https://www.miataturbo.net/mspnp-55/afr-rpms-fluctuate-62513/

"Your AFR target table should be based upon a knowledge of theoretical engine operating conditions and gasoline chemistry. A few relevant AFR's:
1. Stoichiometric is when gasoline and air combust and theoretically produce nothing by water and carbon dioxide byproducts (i.e., no extra oxygen or unburned fuel present and minimum carbon monoxide). This ratio is 14.7:1 (Air:Fuel). NBO2 sensors are designed to switch at this AFR.
2. Maximum torque happens when your mixture burns the most quickly. ~12.5:1 is the target for this.
3. Richening the mixture past 12.5:1 has the effect of slowing combustion. This helps resist detonation.
4. On the lean side, you can go leaner than 14.7:1 and get some economy benefits in parts of the AFR table where it makes sense to do so.
5. In the idle region, going a bit richer than 14.7:1 usually results in best idle quality. You should have seen that during your idle tuning.

So, based upon the above, this is what I'm doing in my AFR table:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1327113625

Note that I'm running water injection. If you're not, I recommend you richen the boost region by at least half a point (i.e., the 200kPa row would be 11.5:1)."

redturbomiata 02-29-2012 09:30 PM


Originally Posted by sccaax (Post 841657)
I would recommend just under stoich at idle - about 14-14.5 works for a more stable idle. 15.5 at 5000rpm is a bit high. Also 15.5 at 70kPa is a bit high. Consider dropping both a bit. Also want to be closer to 13:1 at 100kPa for optimum performance and to keep you from blowing the motor. Numbers in the high kPa look decent.

yea, he remembered that was his emissions settings lol. i changed idle to 14.5 per the brain. :brain:
And i will change the 100 kpa to, 13. what should the 15.5's you mentioned drop down to.

AnnorexicRoadster 02-29-2012 09:33 PM

Am I the only one that thinks 12.5 is too high for boost? Hustler and Savington saw no gains beyond 11.5, given that wouldnt 11.5 be better as you would have a higher saftey margin and same power?

Techsalvager 02-29-2012 10:38 PM

I think it really depends on the load the motor has on it, I'm not gonna start pulling fuel so easily just because I'm near 100kpa at low rpms

redturbomiata 02-29-2012 11:07 PM

oh on a side note how do you change the idle rpm, its sitting at 1300-1500.

Faeflora 02-29-2012 11:59 PM

I would make the following modifications:
100kpa row/7000:12
100kpa row/6000:12.5
100kpa row/5000: 12.7
100kpa row/4000:13
100kpa row/3000:13
100kpa row/2000:13.5
100kpa row/1000:13.5

Interpolate along Y Axis to your 200kpa targets. They are fine.

Faeflora 03-01-2012 12:01 AM


Originally Posted by AnnorexicRoadster (Post 841700)
Am I the only one that thinks 12.5 is too high for boost? Hustler and Savington saw no gains beyond 11.5, given that wouldnt 11.5 be better as you would have a higher saftey margin and same power?

It's not too high but I would do what I recommended which is run fatter at 100kpa and blend upwards. That will make things nice and smooth.

curly 03-01-2012 12:58 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Here's my "real" target table.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1330581494
I certainly prioritized track reliability over streetability, since it's not a street car. I appreciate the sentiment by stealing my table, but there's probably better ones out there.

hustler 03-01-2012 07:58 AM

2 Attachment(s)
My bauce table:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1330606697

curly 03-01-2012 08:16 AM

God has spoken. Bow down and burn his table. Not literally.

aaronc7 03-01-2012 08:30 AM

1 Attachment(s)
I keep it simple....

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1330608634

Braineack 03-01-2012 08:43 AM

it migh tbe simple, but I'm sure you don't get the mpgs I do. My timing is fairly advanced in cruise, so I dont need the fuel.

aaronc7 03-01-2012 08:45 AM

I got 30-31mpg on a long ass 10 hour trip to pick up my hardtop... mainly 2 lane roads, 55mph, going thru some towns here and there. lots of 3rd, 4th gear pulls and some messing around with MS to keep me sane/awake. good enough for me!

Techsalvager 03-01-2012 09:24 AM

hmm 14.7 at 4000-5000+ don't want

Braineack 03-01-2012 09:43 AM

when will you be there with a turbo if you're not cruising on the highway in 4th gear?

Faeflora 03-01-2012 09:43 AM


Originally Posted by hustler (Post 841812)

Pretty much exactly what I was saying snuggles

y8s 03-01-2012 10:20 AM

do not follow the 12.X at 160 kPa at low RPM.

I know you can't boost like that, but I wouldn't put that in the table.


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