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Old 12-21-2007, 03:38 PM   #21
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ok heres the deal... i got the car started!!!!


BUT... the IAT is reading about twice what it should... that is with the gm defolts set

AND the CLT is WAY off now that i changed the bias resistor number. (R7 still removed)

I want to get tuning... so i need these values!
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Old 12-21-2007, 03:40 PM   #22
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did you make sure you had C and not F in there when you did it? or vise versa?
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Old 12-21-2007, 03:45 PM   #23
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im gunna go through and re-do easytherm. Ill still use the stock bias resistor values some1 gave me before, along with matts other values.... as for the GM IAT theres a great chance i just forgot to change it to F
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Old 12-21-2007, 03:57 PM   #24
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ok... and matt, this is with R7 still removed?
The sensor seems to be the same on all of them. However, we do not remove R7 as we remove the stock ECU instead.
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Old 12-21-2007, 04:03 PM   #25
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yeah im trying to share the signal...therefore i need to remove R7 and use the stock bias. Ill re-flash and let every1 know how it works out


BTW i love how fast this forum is!!!
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Old 12-21-2007, 04:32 PM   #26
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^ NO dont do that. Keep R7 but flash Matts values, Then let us know if they are dead on. Test out his and let us know if it works, Arkmage is probably as curious as I am.
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Old 12-21-2007, 04:49 PM   #27
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sam... the problem with that is i have a boomslang and i am sharing the sensor with the stock ecu.... meaning it would be pointless to test matts because i would have 2 bias resistors (stock and R7). As matt said, he did away with the stock ECU so he needs R7. I plan on using the stock bias resistor and matts values.

The sun is setting and its freakin cold, so i probably wont get ambition to go do this tonight
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Old 12-21-2007, 05:35 PM   #28
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^ NO dont do that. Keep R7 but flash Matts values, Then let us know if they are dead on. Test out his and let us know if it works, Arkmage is probably as curious as I am.

that's wrong. DIY removes their stock ecu, therefore there is no bias, so they keep r7 installed. when sharing with the stock ecu, you have two bias resistors and therefore you remove r7. else flash 3700 as the bias.
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Old 12-21-2007, 05:42 PM   #29
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ok... everything is reflashed and im sitting in the car (freezing my ***** off) with it running on megasquirt....


The coolant seems to make sense with my new values (1205 for bias and matts other values). The car is at running temp and it is saying 140 (ik its off but i could deal) but my IAT still seems hard to believe. it is saying 47*F right now when the outside temp is MAYBE 35*
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Old 12-21-2007, 09:38 PM   #30
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That is a very believable IAT. Turbo or N/A it doesn't make much of a difference at idle. Both will get hot at idle. If you give the car a little gas and get air rushing over he IAT it should cool down a little.

Fill out your signature with info on your car. Helps to know the year and if you're turbo or not.
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Old 12-21-2007, 09:53 PM   #31
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:-D im happy i can fill that in with "Squirted"
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Old 12-21-2007, 10:13 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
that's wrong. DIY removes their stock ecu, therefore there is no bias, so they keep r7 installed. when sharing with the stock ecu, you have two bias resistors and therefore you remove r7. else flash 3700 as the bias.
Yea, I figured. Didnt hit me for some reason that its for PNP scenario.
---------

Miata240, Where are you located? Btw, how do you know its 35 outside? Are you using a digital thermometer or one of the coil ones?

--------

Btw, might not be able to pickup that sensor like I planned. Called up mazda, they said you cant return electrical components. Gay, I think so. Plus they are saying the sensor is like 30 bucks.

Ill be there tomorrow picking up an oil filter and ill ask again.
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Old 12-21-2007, 10:32 PM   #33
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i really want to grab a timing light and then start tuning!!!! but i have to install a clutch in a maxima 2morro and work sunday :(
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