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Old 05-02-2007, 05:42 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by m2cupcar View Post
Scott is getting his temp from the thermosensor in the back of the head. The sensor in the tstat housing is actually thermoswitch that goes to ground at 97c- which IMO is too late for a boosted car in the south. The link can control the fans though if you run a relay ground to the designated pin on the ecu (I did it per the manual). My fan comes on when the car comes to a stop - set to 95c (which I believe is the stock NA 1.8 setting).

Would be nice to see some oil and coolant temps from water/oil cooled turbos, and oil cooled only turbos.

I'd post my oil temps, but they're not representative of a working system. Either my sending unit is whacked OR my oil tstat in the sandwich plate (with cooler attached) isn't working. On my 3 hour round trip I was getting 270f at 3500-4000 cruise. Boost showed the same.
The Thermoswitch the runs the fans goes to ground when 97C is hit. Couldn't you unplug the harness that goes to the thermoswitch and run 1L from the link back to this? Do you need to run a relay if you are just running the one fan?

I've got an oil temp gauge, and the sender is in the drain plug. Getting anything really meaningful from this is tough since it takes a long time for either the oil in the sump to get hot or the sender is REALLY slow. So I don't know if I could show a difference between boosted and none-boosted. I also think the oil pan does a pretty reasonable job at cooling the oil when driving. I can see my oil temps come up significantly when in slow moving traffic.

Also it takes a good 15 to 20 minutes to get any movement on the gauge, which starts at 140.
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Old 05-02-2007, 05:43 PM   #22
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yeah hitting only 175º or so in boost doesn't feel right to me. I can't believe my little scooper is doing that good of a job.
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Old 05-02-2007, 05:47 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Al Hounos View Post
with the mazda factor specs, i idled warm at about 160, with aussie's, i idle around 180.... I could have sworn the previous owner said he put a 160 thermostat in, not sure though. i hit 200 in boost.
Do your fans kick on at idle?
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Old 05-02-2007, 05:48 PM   #24
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Me either, let us know what you find because i bet our temps are ~8-10* more than what they are reading in MT.
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Old 05-02-2007, 05:50 PM   #25
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my fans are jumpered on all the time.
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Old 05-02-2007, 05:50 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayc72 View Post
Couldn't you unplug the harness that goes to the thermoswitch and run 1L from the link back to this? ...
Also it takes a good 15 to 20 minutes to get any movement on the gauge, which starts at 140.
Yes you could, since you're just substituting the ecu for the thermoswitch ground- I've got a giant spal that pulls about 22amps on startup so it's got a 30amp relay. The real advantage of using the ecu is being able to control your fan points depending on season. It's far easier to keep the fluids from getting hot, than to try and cool them down after they've gotten hot.

My oil will be at 220 from a warm 180 if I make several boosted runs. Around town driving I see 240 - but constant hwy cruise shows 270f and that's just plain wrong for somebody with over 5 qts oil capacity and a cooler.
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Old 05-02-2007, 05:52 PM   #27
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Should be easy for you guys to figure out. Unless modified the fan will come on at 97C. Is the correction you guys are applying with the MS linear? If the MS says you are running 80C when the fan comes on it should be reasonable to assume that you are 17C out.
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Old 05-02-2007, 05:53 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al Hounos View Post
my fans are jumpered on all the time.
Could rig a test light up to the thermoswitch to see when it is supposed to happen.
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Old 05-02-2007, 05:54 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m2cupcar View Post
Yes you could, since you're just substituting the ecu for the thermoswitch ground- I've got a giant spal that pulls about 22amps on startup so it's got a 30amp relay. The real advantage of using the ecu is being able to control your fan points depending on season. It's far easier to keep the fluids from getting hot, than to try and cool them down after they've gotten hot.

My oil will be at 220 from a warm 180 if I make several boosted runs. Around town driving I see 240 - but constant hwy cruise shows 270f and that's just plain wrong for somebody with over 5 qts oil capacity and a cooler.
Maybe I'll run the relay just to be safe anyway
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Old 05-02-2007, 05:56 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by cjernigan View Post
Me either, let us know what you find because i bet our temps are ~8-10* more than what they are reading in MT.

i'm heading out to do it now, then driving home, let you know in an hour.
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Old 05-02-2007, 07:36 PM   #31
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ok, reflashed it correctly with Aussie's settings.


Reading closer to 170 after sitting for a minutes, low speed cruise I dip down to 160-165, if i sit at a light it hits 170 then peaks at about 175 when the fans turn on. so I'm going to assume it's good.
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Old 05-02-2007, 08:37 PM   #32
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That means according to your MS the thermoswitch is turning on the fans at 80* instead of 97*.
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Old 05-02-2007, 09:36 PM   #33
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All this fahrenheit celsius conversion crap is killing me. I'm simple minded sometimes. I'll load aussies settings, seeing how he has the same motor as me anyway.
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Old 05-02-2007, 10:34 PM   #34
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Dammit it's a japanese car, metric is where it's at!
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Old 05-02-2007, 10:42 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
I think it may just have GM defaults on it now. I don't really remember to be honest, acutally I think i just uploaded the standard file, not the mod file by mistake.
That sounds about right. I did the same thing for the first week or 2 with my MS. I was about 20-25 cooler than my VDO gauge was showing at the time.

Both sensors were mounted next to each other.
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Old 05-02-2007, 11:02 PM   #36
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Old 05-03-2007, 11:27 AM   #37
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Default Tstat fully opens at 100c

I thought this was interesting. It's the OE specs for the FE tstat (my engine).
The tstat isn't fully open until 100C! I've got the fan coming on at 94c and shutting off at 88c. 100c seems incredibly high for full coolant flow to be initiated - no? Wonder if there's a spec like this for the Miata engines?
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Old 05-03-2007, 11:40 AM   #38
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Just for the sake of conversation, my car seems to run around 94-99* Celcius, per the Hydra.
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Old 05-03-2007, 11:45 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nester View Post
Just for the sake of conversation, my car seems to run around 94-99* Celcius, per the Hydra.
Link reports back about the same for my car as well.
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Old 05-03-2007, 12:00 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m2cupcar View Post
I thought this was interesting. It's the OE specs for the FE tstat (my engine).
The tstat isn't fully open until 100C! I've got the fan coming on at 94c and shutting off at 88c. 100c seems incredibly high for full coolant flow to be initiated - no? Wonder if there's a spec like this for the Miata engines?
Remember that's FULLY open temp. It might be 75% open at 90. Only way to tell is to calibrate some hot water and test it yourself. Looks to be exactly the same in the 2001 manual...


Last edited by y8s; 01-12-2009 at 01:34 PM.
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