Coolant Temps
06-20-2007, 08:00 AM
#43
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I get 212-ish easily/quickly while boosted, and the OEM temp gauge starts to go to "1-o'clock". I am around 196-205 at idle and cruising. Oil temps (temp probe in oil plug) around 240-ish after about 20 minutes of warming up.
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06-20-2007, 10:47 AM
#44
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So im guessing mine are wrong....I have Aussie Driver's EasyTherm settings burned into mine.
Fans turn on at indicated 185°F (85°C) and I cruise at 160°F (71°C), with a 180°F Thermostat.....
Fans turn on at indicated 185°F (85°C) and I cruise at 160°F (71°C), with a 180°F Thermostat.....
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06-30-2007, 02:24 AM
#50
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yeah after reviewing the factory service manual, the fans should kick on at 207°. My Easytherm values are off. I checked the resistance of my sensor and went back against the manuals numbers and they match up. So i gotta reburn it.
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09-04-2007, 05:44 PM
#51
Did we determine that aussie drivers settings were good?
I was going to try reverants but am having trouble getting Easytherm to burn to megasquirt for some reason.
https://www.miataturbo.net/showpost....&postcount=104
Went for a drive yesterday and am sick of seeing false coolant temps at like 165 cruise and 180 under 2nd-3rd low boost run.
I was going to try reverants but am having trouble getting Easytherm to burn to megasquirt for some reason.
https://www.miataturbo.net/showpost....&postcount=104
Went for a drive yesterday and am sick of seeing false coolant temps at like 165 cruise and 180 under 2nd-3rd low boost run.
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09-04-2007, 05:54 PM
#52
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mine was an easytherm issue.
those values look way off, i use the factory RX7 settings. which should still be the same for you, unless there aren't
2490 Bias
-20 16200°C
20 2450°C
80 320°C
the best way to tell is when the fans switch on. mine switch on at 210° indicated, 207° is the stock switch point.
those values look way off, i use the factory RX7 settings. which should still be the same for you, unless there aren't
2490 Bias
-20 16200°C
20 2450°C
80 320°C
the best way to tell is when the fans switch on. mine switch on at 210° indicated, 207° is the stock switch point.
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09-05-2007, 12:25 AM
#54
Hmm, i tried to reflash with ET and ended up killing MS. I'm assuming it's a firmware prob right now so i'm gonna reflash the firmware.
As for the actual bias resistors on the board, if we are keeping the value of 2490 in ET, do we want to keep the resistors on the board. I was under the impression that if you were using any thermistors other than the GM units that you wanted them removed. But I don't know why you would keep the bias resistor values the same if you remove the resistors entirely.
I'm installing the GM IAT and i'm going to use the stock CLT sensor. So i'll use the RX-7 defaults for the CLT and use the GM defaults for the GM IAT sensor. I currently have R4 and R7 removed. I'm going to reinstall R7 (2490ohm) for the GM IAT though. Just not sure if i need the resistor to use the RX7 settings?
edit: Damn 9 volt batteries are ruining my day. I hate taking the MS out of the car just so i can install a POS boot jumper while using the STIM. Talk about PITA.
As for the actual bias resistors on the board, if we are keeping the value of 2490 in ET, do we want to keep the resistors on the board. I was under the impression that if you were using any thermistors other than the GM units that you wanted them removed. But I don't know why you would keep the bias resistor values the same if you remove the resistors entirely.
I'm installing the GM IAT and i'm going to use the stock CLT sensor. So i'll use the RX-7 defaults for the CLT and use the GM defaults for the GM IAT sensor. I currently have R4 and R7 removed. I'm going to reinstall R7 (2490ohm) for the GM IAT though. Just not sure if i need the resistor to use the RX7 settings?
edit: Damn 9 volt batteries are ruining my day. I hate taking the MS out of the car just so i can install a POS boot jumper while using the STIM. Talk about PITA.
Last edited by cjernigan; 09-05-2007 at 12:54 AM.
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09-05-2007, 01:19 AM
#55
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FWIW, I updated my firmware via Easytherm a month ago or so with the values that brain just posted up and it definitely seems to match everyone elses temps as I run normally around 205 - 210F idling on a hot day, 200-205 just crusin around real easy, and Ive gotten it up to 215-220 a few times while boosting hard for several minutes for tuning and just for fun too. The thing about easytherm is it looks and acts like its completely locked up when its loading and does not give any sort of meter to know how long it will take. I just let it sit for 10 minutes while loading and took a **** ... came back and it was done.
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09-05-2007, 08:28 AM
#56
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I used a wall power source for my STIM.
If you are sharing the coolant sensor with the factory ECU you should remove R7. IIRC it's R7 not R4, double check that. Otherwise, even if you have the correct ET values you'll see like 160° at cruise and a max of 180° or so.
Reinstall the correct resistor for the IAT however.
as for burning it. I've found that MS-II Downloader works much better. Create your _mod file with easytherm and then burn it with the downloader. Tends to freeze less. FWIW, there shoudl be around 1700 new rows written. If it only writes 325 then you need a new original file to start from.
If you are sharing the coolant sensor with the factory ECU you should remove R7. IIRC it's R7 not R4, double check that. Otherwise, even if you have the correct ET values you'll see like 160° at cruise and a max of 180° or so.
Reinstall the correct resistor for the IAT however.
as for burning it. I've found that MS-II Downloader works much better. Create your _mod file with easytherm and then burn it with the downloader. Tends to freeze less. FWIW, there shoudl be around 1700 new rows written. If it only writes 325 then you need a new original file to start from.
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09-05-2007, 09:05 AM
#57
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You should *only* remove the bias resistors altogether if you are sharing the sensor with the stock ECU and both are using them at once. In that case you'd be using the bias resistor inside the stock ECU. See here for details if that's what you're up to:
http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/sharesen.htm
http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/sharesen.htm
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09-05-2007, 10:26 AM
#58
You should *only* remove the bias resistors altogether if you are sharing the sensor with the stock ECU and both are using them at once. In that case you'd be using the bias resistor inside the stock ECU. See here for details if that's what you're up to:
http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/sharesen.htm
http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/sharesen.htm
I'm the one mentioned earlier who's fan didn't work because the ECU was seeing too low a temp.
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