COP (toyotas) and MS standalone tach issue - Page 3 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 09-02-2007, 12:24 PM   #41
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Yah, having 0 time to work on stuff is not fun. I wanna drive my darn car
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Old 09-02-2007, 02:41 PM   #42
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I lost my tach due to reflashing my firmware without pulling the ignitors like a dumbass, so my work on my COP setup is starting this week.
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Old 09-02-2007, 04:03 PM   #43
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I still haven't had a chance to get to this.
To shove a 1k resistor on 2 wires? I know...it takes hours. Do you have a wife or something? :gay:
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Old 09-02-2007, 04:08 PM   #44
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sometimes it's hard to even get to the little jobs

Except for backing it into the driveway so I could sweep up the garage, I haven't looked at mine in about 2 weeks. And even then I put down the brake and rolled it out, then rolled it back in.
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Old 09-02-2007, 04:40 PM   #45
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I lost my tach due to reflashing my firmware without pulling the ignitors like a dumbass, so my work on my COP setup is starting this week.
Lol, i did the same thing to completely kill mine.... i lost tach due to bad setting on my MS maps/wrong config on board... and then completely to firmware updates.

Having no garage and no time is what gets me.... but we just started paperwork for an offer on a house... so I might have a home with a garage by the end of the month....
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Old 09-02-2007, 04:50 PM   #46
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so I might have a home with a garage by the end of the month....


Hope that works out for you.
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Old 09-03-2007, 12:18 PM   #47
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SO..... should I try running a 1k resistor from the single tach wire... to the BLU (which is run from ignition power, should be 12v)
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Old 09-03-2007, 06:24 PM   #48
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Ran a 1k resistor between Blu (12v ignition power to ignitor) and the Tach wire (4, yel/blu). I now have a working tach, not driven around or abused it... but it works to rev and idle.

For MS, you do not need to combine the Yel/Blu (4) and Blk/Wht (5). Blk/Wht is there for the OEM Ecu to provide a 1v feed into the ignitor, which explains why the OEM Ecu can get Tach working with the COPs and the 4/5 merged.
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Old 09-03-2007, 06:28 PM   #49
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Awesome. Now someone needs to combine this info so we have a general clue what the hell is going on.
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Old 09-03-2007, 06:29 PM   #50
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Name:  1.6L_COP_Schematic.jpg
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Old 09-03-2007, 07:40 PM   #51
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yay, glad to hear.
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Old 09-03-2007, 07:40 PM   #52
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so i am a little unsure of the advantage of this mod?
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Old 09-03-2007, 07:47 PM   #53
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so i am a little unsure of the advantage of this mod?
Increased MPG, smoother idle, better starting, elimination of plug wires, less electrical interference, fires a bigger gap.
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Old 09-03-2007, 07:56 PM   #54
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In short it means more power potential+ a hotter spark
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Old 09-04-2007, 03:33 AM   #55
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great that sounds good to me, I may be putting this on my list of things to do ... i need to read up more on ignition system first though.
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Old 09-04-2007, 05:33 AM   #56
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great that sounds good to me, I may be putting this on my list of things to do ... i need to read up more on ignition system first though.
Ignition in general or the Miata specifically? There's alot of info in this thread like dwell times and whatnot for the Miata. I wish I had time to sort it out and seperate the 'write-up' from the bs.
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Old 09-04-2007, 12:02 PM   #57
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i guess a little bit of both although i guess if youre just running a wasted spark system then its pretty much the same, just the coil is closer to the plug (rather on it). Ill let others be the guinea pig for this.
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Old 09-04-2007, 04:49 PM   #58
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the black/white is a 1v output from the ECU to the ignitor, for the tach signal....do I assume that since I'm piggybacked, I just need to join the blk/wht and tach out and nothing else? whereas split has a standalone and no 1v signal, so he needs the resistor for the tach output???
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Old 09-04-2007, 05:00 PM   #59
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whoa, tach only needs 1V?! Probably need a 317 to regulate voltage instead of just a resistor then.
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Old 09-04-2007, 05:16 PM   #60
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that's what I'm understanding for this thread.

the only thing the oem ecu sends to the ignitor is a 1v source. from 2I, blk/wht.

since Splittime doesnt have a stock ecu anymore I suspect the problem is getting the 1v source....this is assumption.

when he took the 12v source and hit it with a resistor to the tach out signal line, he got his signal back.

and likewise, others with the stock ecu simply connect the 1v input to the tach signal output.

with this assumption, peoples like me, with a piggybacked MS, would simple just install it like the rest of you guys with a stock ecu only.
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