Crank Trigger Ideas
#1
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Crank Trigger Ideas
So I've been reading around trying to see how I want to approach the crank trigger wheel for my build. The easiest thing seems to be to get a '96-05 crank pulley boss and machine a trigger wheel to sandwich between the pulley and boss. That would mean you can use either a VR from the '96-97 or Hall from the later models, right? Would this work on a 1.6L long nose? How thick is the stock trigger wheel? Can anyone snap a picture of the stock '96+ setup so I can get a better idea of how it looks?
I'd like to just buy all the stock parts and then have someone machine the wheel (or does the DIY autotune one work?) so that it's balanced when the tooth is removed, looks stock and won't break due to my horrible fab skills.
I'd like to just buy all the stock parts and then have someone machine the wheel (or does the DIY autotune one work?) so that it's balanced when the tooth is removed, looks stock and won't break due to my horrible fab skills.
#2
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The disc material is approximately 0.07" thick. The central hub sits in a dished area, which is offset by about 0.04".
These pictures are from a '99 wheel. On the NB wheels, the teeth are sharp and pronounced. On the NA wheels, the leading edge is sharp, while the trailing edge ramps down smoothly.
I have no idea whether this will fit a 1.6 engine.
The wheels that DIY sells are thicker, non-offset, and lack the correct holes on the inside to fit in the NB hub / pulley assembly.
These pictures are from a '99 wheel. On the NB wheels, the teeth are sharp and pronounced. On the NA wheels, the leading edge is sharp, while the trailing edge ramps down smoothly.
I have no idea whether this will fit a 1.6 engine.
The wheels that DIY sells are thicker, non-offset, and lack the correct holes on the inside to fit in the NB hub / pulley assembly.
#3
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Great, thanks. It looks like it should fit. The boss is the same and from what I was reading it's just a tad bit thinner to accommodate the wheel and since the boss I have works for a '94-95, it should work unless they changed the crankshaft. You don't happen to have a boss, wheel and sensor lying around you'd like to get rid of for an experiment, do you?
#4
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You can move a long nose 1.6 pulley onto a 1.8, so I would not be surprised to see a 1.8 pulley on a long nose 1.6. You would of course need to change over to 1.8 pulleys on the waster pump and alternator too.
I don't know the tooth arrangement of the NA pulley, but the NB pulley requires MS2.
I don't know the tooth arrangement of the NA pulley, but the NB pulley requires MS2.
#5
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I'm not planning on staying with the 4 teeth and I have MS-II anyway. I'm hoping I don't need to change out the pulley. Did they change anything drastic between the 1.6 and 1.8 pulley that would make it not fit? If I have to change all the pulleys, it's not really worth it.
#6
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Does anyone have a 96+ crank pulley boss, trigger wheel and sensor they're willing to sell me cheap to see if this will all work? This would be a good, cheap setup if all you need to do is machine the wheel for it to work. Then again, you could just use it without machining, too.
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