Congrats! That was pretty quick after the DIYPNP release.

 

Unfortunately it looks like rain all week so not sure if I'll get any more tuning in. Biggest trouble area right now is getting the cranking settings dialed in better.

Here's the DIY spreadsheet.
I'm running a GM IAT sensor and and LC1 wideband through the DB15. Set your Maximum Spark Duration to .7 for standard coils.

 

On the MS 3.0 board there are two different ground planes, but they all come together at the db37. However, you still want to keep the sensor ground wires physically separated from the high current ones.

Take a look at this video:

http://diyautotune.com/videos/megasq...brucenoise.mov

Anyways, this is all sort of off topic.

 

What really surprises me is that the inputs created by abe were not needed to use the miata's strange wheel pattern. That saves a bit of trouble with having to custom all the input channels for the cam and crank. That still doesnt save you form needing to make the alternator circuit or A/C mods, but that is not that big of a deal. What really trips me is the alternator circuit, since it has various components that are sensitive to different ratings and tolerances from what I read on that alternator circuit thread.

Its great the DIYPNP is working good though, gives other options for people in comparison to using a regular MSII and abe's adapter board. I think the only downside to using abe's board is the need for an external box, or getting a little creative with fitting it into one. The DIYPNP is almost virtually PNP, except the need for a few circuits required, while abe's board is a true PNP piece (as long as you figure out the correct way to install components and a few wires ^_^)

 

Russ @ DIY told me he wasn't so surprised that input mods were not required. He said they noticed the same thing on an RX7 test mule--too much noise in the ignition triggers to fire a standard MS2, but the uS synced no problem.

The a/c circuit would need to be built no matter what (if standalone). Matt said to use one of the mainboard inputs but remove a resistor. I don't know which one, but when the box comes out of the car for upgrades to fuel and/or spark outputs, I'll get that info and perform the procedure. I am going to lose table switch, but I honestly don't care. I wasn't planning on using the feature anyway. If I cared more, a couple of transistors added to the proto area would allow both.

It's also a long term goal to re-wire the DIYPNP in parallel with the stock computer, via a homebrew boomslang type harness, which will retake control of a/c, alternator, and so on.

I wonder if leaving the MAF on the intake restricts power. Hmmm.

 

The AC mod is REALLY easy.

And yea, MAF=restriction. Dyno proven time and time again.

 

If I recall, Abe's board takes care of the needed A/C circuit. I haven't tried it yet honestly, I am still waiting on a IAC valve that will be coming in the mail tomorrow. I sure hope it fixes the problem I'm having with my idle though.

So your main goal is to have the DIYPNP set up as parallel? Is it for OBDII retention?

 

Yes the car needs to pass an annual OBD plug-in inspection.

Well OK, I'll replace the MAF with a pipe and look at a CEL 51 weeks per year. Or more realistically install a bullet connector in the boomslang harness on the CEL wire. In that case, too bad there's not an extra 2D table with PWM output.
Still, I think it's a more than fair sacrifice for getting this type of control.

Jerry, if you get a second, can you or Matt post up the a/c mod?
Also, apparently Bryan left my stock ecu on a table in your shop, in the bay with Russ' car, on a table. Sorry.

 

I have no idea if there are separate ground planes on the uS module or not, but they certainly are separate on the DIYPNP mainboard. I know Mazda didn't exactly do a good job of it either. It appears both power ground and sensor ground are on the same bolt on the head. In the wiring diagram, there is also a jumper from the coil pack power ground to signal ground.

 

That reminds me, now that I'm standalone, I gotta pull that MAF out.

 

The ground planes are separate on the uS module too. The difference b/n the uS and the v3.0 board is that the uS actually has different pins for the sensor and high current grounds, while the 3.0 board does not.

 

Any news? You really made me curious.

I like the nice - all in one box - solution. And not having an extra circuit for the triggers.
Case looks quite roomy - so one could even put the WBO2 controller box (or circuit) inside?!

Greets

 

No I don't have anything new to say.
The car runs and drives. There's no doubt that the thing works.

It's been raining here, hard, everyday for over a week. Everything is wet, so the miata has been hibernating. It's going to be several more days before it stops raining.

Maybe you could get a WB controller in there. You do have to build an NB alternator control circuit. I didn't think of getting a pic of mine. It takes up some room, as well as the optional sequential add-on board.

It would be nice if the rain stopped. I'm jazzed about trying coil per plug.

 

The roads are starting to dry off.

I'm making ~15psi on the wastegate. Previously I was making 12psi.

So now I can say that the DIYPNP not only adds length, girth, and stamina, makes my teeth whiter, and my wasteline smaller, but somehow I am now getting more boost.

Don't know what's up wit dat. FWIW, it's all boost creep as it's (theoretically) a 10psi gate.

Also have what looks like a little random noise in the datalogs. I ran extra grounding to the DB15, but didn't actually hook it to the car. I think it needs to be done.

Oh, and I think my LC1 took a ****. It works for a while, then just goes dead. No error codes, just dead. Gotta put tuning on hold until straightened. :(

 

Glad you're doing well with this Ben. I was running MSI in parallel on my '99 and everything functioned wonderfully. Do to familiarity this is appealing but i've since gone with adaptronic, just haven't had time to install and tune to do being 4k miles away the past 6 months

 

Hi Ben,

I have my DIYPNP now lying on the bench. (I couldn't resist)

Do you have a knock sensor attached? I have a KnocksenseMS installed - so I would like to know how to use this.

Thanks

Greets

 

Yes, you can use either the on board knock sensor or the KnockMS. I decided to go with the KnockMS because it's tuned to the engine size, where the standard on board sensor is untuned.

Hook it through the DB15 to ADSC1

 

Superb, thanks!

 

To use the KnockSenseMS, simply wire it straight to an unused ADC input pin on the main board. It's better than the knock circuit we included.

 

Anyone know what these circuits look like? Seems interesting to compare to the ones we're using now.