Hey all,
In the hopes reducing the boost spike/tapper of my current manual boost controller, I decided to try my hand at an electronic boost controller setup.
Being a newb, I thought I could simply follow the DIYPNP Installation Guide - Miata Turbo Forum and wire the Electronic Boost Solenoid Kit into my unused MAF connector and starting tuning.

Unfortunately for me, that isn't the case for the second hand DIYPNP unit I purchased; it looks like my board i missing the hardware needed to control boost.
As you can see, my board on the left is missing the items that reside in the "Boost Control" section.

I've decided to document my findings for anyone else out there who may be new to Megasquirt and missing these components.

The plan:

1. Order the MegaSquirt Boost Control Mod Kit from DIYAutoTune
2. Solder/Install the items included in the kit (resistors, transistor, heat sink, etc).
3. Solder a connection between: PT7 and the Boost Control IN
4. Solder a connection between: 2L (MAF pin from the OEM ECU) and the Boost Control OUT.
5. Run my EBC Solenoid connections through the MAF connections 4X and 4AF.

Based on my board (shown below), does anyone see anything glaring wrong with my plan? I'm still new to modding circuit boards/megasquirt so please let me know if anything seems amiss. This should work, right? lol

Thanks!
Joe

 

you're modding a MS Labs DIYPNP Enhanced.

Good Luck.

I would check with reverant and make sure boost control isn't already on the green enhancement board -- or if there's even an available output for it.

 

good luck with CL boost control on a pre-ms3

 

 

Or just plumb your mbc properly and have 99% the performance without the hassle or money spent. I don’t understand why people are so stuck on ebc’s on this forum

 

cause they are much better, and we both know it!

I miss the days of simple PID tuning on MS2. now there's the initial duties, and variance tables to tune... I had no issues on ms2 ebc code.

 

How so? Because theoretically it builds boost faster? Let's see comparisons. I have some I can post. it.....aint.....even.....noticeable.

Unless your butt dyno can sense up to .1 ms

Want me to fwd you a ms2pnp tune/logs I'm tuning right now to dial in ebc on? I'd love to see you dial it in to hold a rock solid pressure without oscillations every time

in fact, I'll pay you to dial it in perfectly

 

on my setup with MBC, my boost plot peaked at 4k, then dropped, then creeped to redline.

with EBC, it peaked and stayed flat to redline. gotta go throught the motions yourself tuning the PID. but I remember a lot of people ended up in same area: P 18-25 I 18-25 D 80-100


I gave my tuning method out over and over:

https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...2/#post1159598
https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...11/#post828687
https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...2/#post1282658


but does MS2 firmware have the sensitively slider now?

 

These DIYPNPs never had EBC on the expander. So he needs to add the circuit as he would with any other DIYPNP.

Needless to say, these units are no longer supported after 8 years.

 

cool. just making sure :P

 

As always, thanks everyone for the insights/feedback. I really appreciate it.

At this point (before I get in over my head right as the nice weather is finally arriving) I'm going to take a safer first step and instead reinstall my MBC, and swap in a few different wastegate springs.

I know at one point, I dropped in a 'very' stiff wastegate spring in order to maximize spool. I'm now wondering if going to something a bit softer will help alleviate the spike (psi peaks at 24.8 and drops to 20.1. I'd prefer to carry 23psi the entire rpm range).

To make things slightly more confusing, the car peaks at 13psi on wastegate with a supposedly 21psi spring. Could be a sign of a lot of back pressure, but I suspect there's more to it. Will circle back around with results.

 

if you plumb it to right before tb it shouldn't spike. and if you spring the ewg (assuming it's working right) to a couple psi under target, it should be rock solid.