scrw

Noob here , & haven't done electronics for 20 years so sorry if any stupid questions.

Just built up a DIYPNP for my 90 miata (eunos), it connects fine & have put a base map on it from my laptop. BUT when I plug it into the cars loom I cannot connect to it. I am useing tunerstudio, comms settings okay on mains power, when I crank the engine I get comms for a second or two before the screen greys again & not connected message appears.

I have checked the 12v from the loom and that is okay (12v, 10.5v when cranking) I have checked the same on the main board of the MS board and get the same voltages. Also getting good earths on the mainboard and the loom plug.

Any ideas folks?

cheers

Steve

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

is it not syncing?

what does the RPMs show, like 25656RPM?

Have you calibrated sensors?

scrw

I get nothing, no conectivity until I crank the engine, then only a second or so before disconnecting, so not even got to calibration etc yet

scrw

okay, just checked again, I am sometimes getting "not connected" sometimes "offline" but all connects fine when I plug in mains power. But I get a good 12v into the mainboard when connected to the car electrics

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

oh so it's a communications problem...soldering at the DB7 good?

scrw

DB7? do you mean the serial plug? (db9) if so they seem to be good.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

I just wanted to clarify. Is the unit working perfectly as far as you can tell when hooked up the 12V supply inside your home, but is shutting down intermittently when supplied power from the vehicle? If so, that means that the work between the mainboard and micorsquirt module is probably good.

So, I'd start by checking solder joints at the wire between 1C and +12V, and also at 4A, 4B, and ground.

scrw

yes, but I would say it hardly connects when on the cars 12v, when tunerstudio says its disconnected in the car I can still get 12v on the mainboard though.

I am going to re solder all the joints between the adaptor board and the mainboard in a bit, I got the wires a little too long so want to tidy them up, will see what happens after that.

cheers

Ben

iTrader: (33)

You might want to also reflow the joints at your DB9.

scrw

will do

turotufas

iTrader: (7)

Question like,
I had my USB/Serial working great until I had to uninstall it. There was a page that had setting suggestions for like best performance and I can't find it anymore. I've been getting disconnected and I think its because the settings aren't right. You guys know what I'm talking about? Where I can find it?
If y'all can help I Thank you.

scrw

okay just resoldered all the connections from the adaptor board to the main board and the D9 socket. Plugged in the car and connected okay, cranked and saw 250rpm then it dropped connection and won't reconnect at all. Go on to 12v mains and all okay.

suggestions?

scrw

think I will run just the 12v & ground from the loom to the ecu to see if I have a wiring fault elsewhere causing my issues, with just power from the car & no sensors etc attached, see what happens then.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

Cross posting for future reference...

On a different forum, the OP showed his wiring pin out where he hooked up VREF to the car. This will cause a short on a stock 1.6 manual trans miata. Don't hook up VREF with the stock TPS sensor.

scrw

good idea but I am running an auto tb & tps on my car, hence using that pin

Ben

iTrader: (33)

Do me a favor and disconnect the TPS and see what happens.

scrw

Ahhh, sorted (ish) just scoped out the plug & the vref goes to the TPS along with the correct pin for the TPS (so I have 2 going to the TPS), seems the pin outs I have are slightly wrong for an auto car.
What sensor should the VREF go to?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

vref is for tps, it's the 5 volt power.

scrw

anyone got a pinout for the TPS, as the pin the vref goes to shorts across to the ground wire on it, do I have a bad TPS?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)