I compared the last tune posted to the DIYPNP tune for my '95 1.8. I'm sure most of the setting differences are due to it being a Euro-spec 1.6 and mine is a US 1.8, but there were a couple things that I couldn't explain away.

Under the sequential injection options why is it set to Standard drivers instead of Additional drivers? The original tune seemed to have it set the same way the DIYAutotune base tune did.

Why is the crank angle offset so high? Was the base timing set to 22 degrees?

 

I don't know-- that's the msq Brainy sent me, I was afraid to touch it anymore! What's the difference between standard and additional drivers?

I haven't gotten around to adjusting the timing. The base timing prior to installation was set to 10.

I'm tryin' to learn all this, I swear. I just need to get over this damn hump

 

I'm not really sure what the difference is, I'm still trying to figure this stuff out too.

Take all of this with a grain of salt. Better yet a whole box. Hopefully someone else can tell me I'm an idiot (and more importantly why), or that there's something wrong with your tune. Or both.

The way I understand it the drivers setting has something to do with having two additional injector drivers on the sequential addon board, and making sure that the ECU knows it can use them. Either there's a reason your settings are different than my settings, your settings are wrong, or my settings are wrong. My car starts and runs though. I'm really confused about Brain's comment, though. The Megasquirt only has two injector drivers onboard, so you could only run sequential on a 2-cylinder unless you added more drivers. I don't understand how you could run sequential on a 4 cylinder without having additional drivers.

I think (and please correct me if I'm wrong) the trigger angle offset is the value that gets changed when you set the base timing through the wizard. A value of -12 (like yours) would mean you're timing is set really far off from the base 10 degrees. If your timing is set to 10 degrees via the CAS rotation that number should be close to 0. I understand that you can't really get the car started to check this out, but what you have looks odd to me.

I have no idea if either of these things could be related to your start problems or not.

 

You're correct. If the ECU hardware is set in place for sequential injection, and you've jumpered the connector board for sequential injection, but then don't turn on the additional drivers you will not get fuel on 2 cylinders. That could easily cause a no-start.

 

This is a screencap from the morning datalog i posted. Looks pretty good....?



Brain, chime in anytime...

 

I don't see RPM in there.

 

Dammit! Another noob mistake >.<

That was idling at ~1k, the msl is posted in page 2.

 

Looking at the last cranking logs...it does look like 2 cylinders, doesn't it?

 

OK back at the shop.

Upgraded firmware to 3.1.0 as advised by Braineack. Reloaded msq, get message re signature mismatch, msq made in 3.0.3u. 4 errors.




Changed to "additional drivers"

The car starts, but won't hold idle. Dies. If I give it a bit of throttle, sputters and pops like angry. Hell, I'm about to sputter and pop.

 

Can you post the most recent MSQ?

 

Here it is. It's Brain's map with reverants cranking settings, additional drivers on. Man this is stressful

 

To rule out anything with the car, I swapped back the stock ecu, st sig fuse, afm. ****. It started with 1 click, and idles perfectly at 900 rpm. Makes you wanna cry.

 

The only big differences I can see between your tune and mine are now based on timing:

Under sequential injection the DIYPNP base map has the Fixed injection timing 1(deg) set to -340 instead of your -350.

Under sequential injection the DIYPNP base map has the Cranking injection timing 1(deg) set to 350 instead of your 360.

Under ignition options the DIYPNP base map has the Trigger Angle/Offset(deg) set to -1 instead of you -12.

Timing is an area I don't really understand, so it's possible all of these things just cancel each other out. Something's obviously still not right, though.

 

OK Brainy sent me a new one, attached. It starts! Aaaaaalmost idles, but I have to catch it. idling is waaaaaaaay lean at 19-20 afr. Logs attached.

So how do I richen up idle?

Again, timing is not yet synced--cos it won't idle >.<

 

Bearda, made my igintion settings same as yours, not much difference. Messing around with req fuel--brought down injectors from 230 cc to 190. it's idling at 18 afr! Not very well, but it's holding. Is this the correct way to increase fuel?

 

Latest msq from Brain: IT ****** WORKS!!!

Attached msq and log

 

Timing has been synced everything works! Thanks to all that watched my slow descent to madness and back! Upgraded to supporter status

I do have this big idle dip when the AC compressor is turned on though. Then idle will oscillate from 500-1200 continuously.

 

Good to hear! Getting it working is a process. Now you've just got to work on making it run better.

As for the AC thing that seems to be a common problem. With the lightweight flywheel my car can stall pretty easily if I leave the AC on while stopped. Megasquirt3 supports bumping the rpm for the AC, but not MS2. There are some idea floating around about using the charcoal canister to up the idle RPM when AC activates but I don't know how many people have tried it. If you're feeling adventurous the thread is here:
https://www.miataturbo.net/showthread.php?p=256739

 

Hmm. vTPS install first, hope that helps the issue a bit.

I have cams waiting, should I pop them in NOW so I don't autotune twice?

 

I would put them in now.