I pretty much recommend the open element across the board now-- We're actually going to put together a simple little kit with all the parts needed. Just crimp it together with the correct length of wire and you're good to go (wire included too).

You guys have *never* responded to me. I tried 3 times.

I'm in Gwinnett and interested in going MS in my 91 turbo.

On the LC-1 we should probably take it offline, but I'm interested in the symptoms. Ground should be together with the ECU and to a GOOD ground point. I'd then try pulling the sensor and running a full heater cal and free air cal. I've had awesome luck with these things-- I'm still running the older model that actually had an issue, wired and configured properly though I just can't blow it up. Hopefully it just needs a full cal-- I've seen that 'fix' a few.

PM me your email address the messages would have come from-- I can check that out... something's not right with that.

Thats kool! I`l be waiting for that.

Initially this kit will include the IAT sensor (uncrimped), pins for it, 8' of wire (you can cut to a pair of 4' wires to let you put it most anywhere in the bay), pins for the AFM connector where you'll plug the IAT in at, and your choice of an aluminum or steel weld on bung for the sensor. It's mainly designed for you turbo guys who already have your piping/filter solution in place and just need the sensor bits.

We're keeping it cheap-- looks like $29 will do it.

I am sooo not wanting to have to weld something that will be visible to other people.

Put the sensor right after the IC where it will be hidden or in the manifold then? I know both are not ideal but it would keep you from having visible welds.

what kinda bung is it "officially" called, so I can get one on welded on the pipe in my kit?

a bung with a 3/4" thread...Corky will know what to do.

3/8" NPT bung

Guys- just found a link on another forum to a youtube video of my prototype demo video... MegaScott who I let in on it early on posted it after the announcement-- it's not polished, but definitely shows how easy it is to install.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LmDKoB52LWE

Man that is awesome, cool little video. Post it on .net.

Done...

actually its been on m.net since this morning :)

My bad, maybe I should go over there more often.

not really, there isn't much developing there worth reading. Unless you like answering questions like "Where is my battery?", or "where is my muffler bearing?"

Who wants to see my O-pipe, "O", "O", "O".

I can't believe someone wouldn't know where their muffler bearing is...

Mine is behind the flux capacitor but I have an NB, not sure about the NA model.

The NA didn't have a flux capacitor-- they were still working out the licensing at that point from the movie studios. I guess that's what makes it harder to find on the NA....

LOL

..anyways back to topic, when running without the AFM, will there be a need for new settings/maps or does the the new PNP kit come with settings for this mod?

Let's see if I've got this right?
1: Remove my Bipes, AFPR, Walbro, and 02Clamp.
2: Drop in some 440's.
3: Get an IAT and ditch the AFM.
4: Install LC-1.
5: Plug it in and start it.
6: Set the timing.
7: Go for a drive? Ok, Ok, go directly to the dyno nice and slow.

And all for $700!
WOW!!!

Is anybody going to the NE dyno-day going to have one? I know a few are MS'd, but anybody with the PnP?

I'm doing my damndest to get one in time for the SE dyno day. Problem is they're not officially out until the 11th and the dyno is the 12th. We shall see.

I have ran my MS with both the AFM in and out. You might have to make some minor adjustments to your maps, but I didnt.

The only mod is the much larger smile on your face :) Removing the AFM is GOOD.

Deleting the AFM left a bit of a rich spike when running a map for with the AFM installed, so we have dialed in a second map for running without the AFM. We also have firmware already EasyThermed for the GM sensor as well as the Miata IAT sensor. The MSPNP comes with a CD that includes the base maps for both as well as the firmware and a copy of MegaTune.

Matt, is there some kind of tutorial in the CD on how to read the maps and how to do basic tuning?

The Tuning Manual has already been done.

http://www.msextra.com/manuals/MS_Ex...nual_Index.htm

You should probably have a read of it otherwise you could melt your engine.

wow. You guys are going to make so much money. Its nice that you guys made it sooooooo easy.

do we have any idea if I can use an 1.8 t-body with the MSpnp? That will save me some cash on the swap if I can avoid FM's adapter plate.

Assuming this is like the normal ms i should be able to hook this up to my 1.6 wiring harness and tune the 94 1.8L engine that i have in my car no?

That's what I'm doing. The only question I have is from my last post on the t-body.

The maps are going to be different, but there is enough knowledge base here that you'll at least get it started, and can tune the fuel yourself.

Yes! You will be able to pnp assuming you are using the stock 1.6L sensors etc...

We'll have a base map, firmware, and MegaTune config pre-setup for with AFM and without. The firmware is different due to the different IAT sensor calibration, same with the MegaTune setup. The base map is slightly different, mainly in the fuel table.

Just got back in town and PM'd you, we'll see what we can work out....

Thank you Jerry! It sounds like your vacation was well deserved.

BTW guys, I spoke with Jerry a few minutes ago. He informed me that he believes that their mapdaddy 4 bar w/ barometric MAP sensor should integrate well into the MSPNP inplace of the standard 2.5 bar. The difference in price is nominal; IMO well worth it. He is going to mock up a test board in a car sometime in the next day or three to make sure everything is kosher. :bigtu:

Ben

<edit>
Just ordered the knock sensor so :x:

Man, it's about friggin' time someone put together a Miata PNP kit and support for the MS.

Didn't carefully scrutinize this entire thread, but what's the projected price?

around $700.

$700 - $720 for the MS plus ~$30 for an intake temp sensor and its bung
I'm also electing to get the baro correction 4 bar map sensor (standard is 2.5 bar and no baro correction) for an additional $60 plus knocksense for $98. So $900 total.

Ahh, 'nother question

Jerry: Can the MS PNP work with signal from a real TPS? I have a linear output TPS from a 1.8NA car on a 1.6 throttle body that I could install...

It can be modded up to do so by the end-user-- we made allowances for that, and there's info on doing this in the manual. Speaking of the manual I just posted it online-- it's pretty exhaustive compared to what alot of manufacturers offer. Go to http://www.megasquirtpnp.com/mspnp_installation.htm and there's a link at the bottom.

so MSPNP + Map sensor that does barometic on the fly and knock sensors = 800-850ish?

Damn, everyone is converting...

I want one of these real bad now. Shit, time to save up the money.

Peer pressure is a bitch. :vash:

nah, it's just the most economical stand alone around. Had there been a group buy on the Link G3, I'd have gotten one of those.

$700 for a fully featured standalone is a good deal.

http://miataroadster.com/brands/mega...ntentsx400.gif

We're pleased to announce our new partnership with the leading MegaSquirt experts, DIYAutoTune.

To celebrate becoming the very first Miata-oriented MegaSquirt vendor in the world, we're running a group buy on 20 MSPNP units for 1990-1993 Miatas at $50 off the $700 retail price.

Visit our website for details on the group buy:

http://miataroadster.com/mspnp.html

Thanks in advance for the opportunity to help you tune your Miata!

can we get these with the knock and 4bar GM sensor with the group buy?

The knocksenseMS comes from http://www.viatrack.ca/
DIY is working on an in house solution, but for now orders are taken at the above site.

The upgraded map sensor is called mapdaddy and is 4bar + baro correction. Jerry said he would make sure that it meshed well with the MS, and if not, another solution may be to use (2) of the 2.5 bar sensors to attain baro correction. If you don't care about baro correction, the standard sensor is good for atmosphere + 21 psi.

How upgrades work with the group buy, that would be interesting...

The GB is for the standard units with the 2.5bar sensor-- GB's tend to get too complicated if you start offering custom options that you have to track for each participant. The idea there is to make the core system available at a discounted price. We do have a limited number of MapDaddy's available through the end of June if people would like to order a modded system directly through us, in late June or July we'll have more MapDaddy's being built up, just waiting on parts.

so pretty much long as im not going up and down say 1000 feet or so the 2.5 bar without the baro will do me fine? Here in dem Ore-gun the "spirtited" driving is normally up and down mountains and stuff. Marrys Peak or German Town Road where you start off around say 750 and end at say 2500ish. So with that being said going from close to sea level (at the beach) and driving back home (through the mountain pass) without baro correction will the car sputter and be all gimpy cus it cant tell the air got thinner when going over the mnt's or will it really not matter?

If you're going to regularly see that kind of elevation change while pushing the car it would be a good idea to have the optional baro correction in there for sure...

Question-- you guys with the DIY setups.... how many of you have opted for the MapDaddy or another solution for baro correction?

I live in the east tennessee valley, about 1000ft, and make trips to deals gap, 1800ft, and don't have any problems. I wouldn't bother with baro correction unless I lived in colorado or similar...

Yeah but do you rhomp it during the elevation change or once you get to the 1800 do you turn off your car then re-start it. The normal MAP sensor re-calculates everytime you turn on the car so if you dont rhomp on it till you make it to 1800ft and have turned the car off it re-calcs. The Map daddy does it on the fly so in my case when I start off at 750 feet and go up marrys peak to like 2500 feet rhomping on it the full way the car wont recalibrate to the air change. GM came out with the sensor cus one of their old SUV's people used to take em to the Mnt and it would start runnin like shit half way up but once they turned the car off at the top and started again it ran fine. Then when they go home half way down it ran like shit and the same deal. So many of them came back to the shop with the same complaint GM replaced it with a auto-correcting baro MAP sensor.

I opted to have an external MAP sensor for my MS - that way I wouldn't have to worry about the vaccum tube. I have it installed on the shock tower brace and tube length is like 8-9 inches - I use a GM 1 bar unit. I got a second one as well for baro - it's installed but reads slightly lower than the main MAP sensor which I corrected with a tweaked barofactor.inc file.

http://users.forthnet.gr/ath/twikicore/cimg0095_1.jpg

The second MAP sensor is right where the stock baro sensor is. I figured that if Mazda though that was a good point to measure the ambient pressure, then it must be so!

Jim

Can you use the on-board MAP sensor as the baro correction sensor and use an external sensor as your main one?

With some modification... yes...

Are you certain that the pressure in the cabin is going to be the same as in the atmosphere?

Jim

ain't nuthin sealed in a miata

c'mon Jerry, I'm starting to fiend like a crack addict :x:

Ben

You could never be 100% certain of this as a blanket statement of course... depends on the car/conditions/whether or not you opted for the cabin pressurization system (overpriced option IMO ;) )... generally it's going to be very close though. For that matter-- can you be sure of this as a blanket statement in the engine compartment? Low pressure and high pressure areas can exist effecting this there as well.... The OEMs may properly engineer around those areas... but the average guy wouldn't necessarily know how to do that without a wind tunnel and a bunch of sensors, one at ambient and several located at different areas around the engine bay.