Just a quick bit of advice. If you cut the wire carrying the secondary cam signal to the MS, it won't start no matter how much you try. It will, however, show an RPM indication in Megatune while cranking, leading you to spend several hours looking in places where the problem isn't.

 

JoeP needs to use TunerStudio's composite logger when diagnosing such a problem. Composite logger often prevents these "duh" moments.

 

Joe P also needs to use TunerStudio, as it has a "SYNC" indication which goes red/green when cranking if the cam signal is not there.

 

Joe P normally does use TunerStudio, however after re-installing the OS on his laptop he's been getting the damn bluescreen when he runs TS despite applying the "fixed" serial cable driver.

 

Dont try to idle your car with diode D8 still in place... you'll have fun when the zener clamps to ground.

 

So dont install D8 as per megamanual instructions for PWM idle?

But it is shown here.....

http://miataturbo.wikidot.com/MS2_a

 

The instructions for the idle mod tell you what you wanna do for that... like jumping R39 and what have you.

 

Ouch. Yeah, Zeners are funny things. One minute they're an open circuit, then you hit 'em with a little overvoltage and *wham*. I'm hoping you took a picture of the aftermath.

Speaking of unnecessary parts, am I the only one who thinks that the whole injector overcurrent circuit is a waste of heatsink space? (I'm referring here to R37/38 and Q14/15). I mean, if you've somehow managed to short across one of your injectors, you've probably also crushed enough other wires that the resulting fire is going to make it irrelevant whether Q1/Q5 blew up or not.

It just kills me that the designers of the 3.x schematic spent so much time and boardspace on all this **** like protection circuits, high-current coil driver, etc., but didn't bother allocating artwork for, oh, ignition drivers, relay drivers, a second trigger, a PWM idle controller, you know- all that little **** that modern engines need to run. The 3.0 board really could have been what the MS3X is striving to be.

[/rant]

 

acutally it never "failed". What it did do was clamp to ground so my idle would stick at 3K unless I shut off the car and it started within the range of 37-60% IAC PWM. Anything above or below that would make it clamp to ground. it eventually failed and I couldn't idle below 3K, so i took a needle nose to it and spit it in half before my drive home and all was swell again. but it never exploded or nuttin.

 

I re-thought the routing of the mods a bit on this last one, and I think it turned out really well, probably the cleanest one I've done in terms of loose wires running everywhere. This is with the standard DIY crank and cam inputs, the JoeSpark drivers, relay driver for fan, EBC and PWM IAC, with internal diode protection on fan, IAC and EBC:





Depopulating the VR section opens up a lot of useful holes.

 

Joe did a heck of a job. very pretty.

 

The big question is... how's it working for you?

Assuming you've been running VEA Live, I'd say that after tomorrow you can probably slow down the EGO reaction time to maybe 40 cycles (I think we left it at 20) which will allow the map to fine-tune a bit more gently.

 

Not since I put the JBPerf P&H driver board in. The injector drivers, flyback circuit and related components had to be removed anyway. Actually the only ones that absolutely had to come out were the ones directly connected to U4 but it was recommended that the other components be removed as well.

It was a pain in the *** taking all that stuff out but like you said it did free up space on the heat sink. I opted to go this route in case I decide to run an EBC. Now I have a place to put an EBC transistor or direct coil drivers.

 

it seems to be working good, i was driving to school today with the vea live. Probably logged almost 200 miles on it already. When i drive home from school today, i went over ahead of myself and went to boost of like 1psi, later the coolant temp shot up a lil bit but went back down when i slowed down. Is that a sign of denotation? Idle dip down to 600rpm when i put car in neutral when slowing down then went back up to normal around 900rpm later, do i have to adjust the acel/decel setting for that?

 

here's how mine typically turn out:

 

which are: D3, D21, C13, C14, D17, D18, R15, R20.

and everything you don't need: D3, D5, D6, D7, D17, D18, D20, D21, C13, C14, Q1, Q3, Q5, Q9, Q10, Q11, Q12, Q13, Q14, Q15, R15, R18, R20, R30, R31, R32, R33, R34, R35, R36, R37, R38

There's like 1/4 of the board populated when you do the P&H board. ctdriftna, is running one on the one I built for him.

 

so about that little diode running diagonally...

 

it ain't going no where. I've had one like on my MS-I for over 4 years.

 

I really like the all-black wiring. It makes everything so easy to diagnose...

















...not.

 

doesn't bother me.