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Old 04-14-2014, 03:57 PM   #21
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That's from an MS1, you have a much bigger and better afr table.

You have some more rpm columns, but you're currently using the same 8 rows that I am, since you're not boosted.
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Old 04-14-2014, 04:00 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
in the least, just copy the 125 kPa row and put it on the 100 Kpa row.
Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
That's from an MS1, you have a much bigger and better afr table.

You have some more rpm columns, but you're currently using the same 8 rows that I am, since you're not boosted.

Awesome... Can't thank you guys enough. I made some serious progress today
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Old 04-14-2014, 11:34 PM   #23
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Ok so I somewhat tried to replicate Curleys AFR table. Car feels a lot quicker than it did stock! Did a couple logs... Thoughts? I think my AFR's should be a lot better.
Attached Files
File Type: msq BTMiata4.14-2.msq (177.5 KB, 111 views)
File Type: msl 2014-04-14_22.18.40.msl (1.32 MB, 44 views)
File Type: msl 2014-04-14_22.23.51.msl (1.03 MB, 38 views)
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Old 04-15-2014, 09:50 AM   #24
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curlys table is okay, if your main goal is to drive the car and inject fuel.
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Old 04-15-2014, 09:58 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
curlys table is okay, if your main goal is to drive the car and inject fuel.
Lol. Thats it for now.

I plan on putting the turbo set-up together in July... So I'm sure I'm going to have a lot more questions when that time arrives. I think its drive-able and safe for now.... The only thing's that I'd like to make better soon are:

Start-up takes a few tries... Stalled out twice this morning

Idle is a little high after it's warmed up.. It's idleing around 1250
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Old 04-15-2014, 03:23 PM   #26
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Eh, it's definitely not perfect, but like I said it made good power. Needs a lot of work to lean things out where we don't need fuel, but the 100kPa row was all I was trying to show.
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Old 04-15-2014, 03:28 PM   #27
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Here's mine for comparison's sake. More cells means you can blend a bit more than with Curly's table.



I stay leaner at higher RPMs because a 4.3 rear end + 70mph speed limits means I'm sometimes cruising at 4200-4400rpm.
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Old 04-15-2014, 03:33 PM   #28
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that's probably the best shown so far.
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Old 04-15-2014, 03:48 PM   #29
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Very nice.

You're 105 row really is useless though. We were jumping between the 100/90 row for WOT pulls. If you actually go slightly above 100, it'll interpulate anyways. Not that you need more resolution you MS2+ bastard, but just an FYI.
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Old 04-15-2014, 03:57 PM   #30
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Thanks guys. I'm sorry I haven't posted it before this, I know it took me a decent amount of time searching for NA tables while building it, as I wasn't happy just using the under-100 rows of turbo'd tables.

Here's the export of the table if you want to load it up Brian.
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Old 04-15-2014, 05:05 PM   #31
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Excellent stuff thanks!! I'm going to upload this table and give it a shot!
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Old 04-16-2014, 09:55 AM   #32
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New table feels great after some auto-tuning.

Now I just need to tune my idle and warmup... It's currently sitting around around 1300rpms. Also it takes about 3 tries to get it started and stay running. Time to read up!
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Old 04-18-2014, 11:30 AM   #33
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Ok I am trying to get my idle tuned.

Quotes are from Brain in another thread

Quote:
Once you make sure your fuel and spark tables are smooth and consistent in your idle zone. I like to do the following things:

1. Learn your min/max idle duty %. You can do this two ways, the first being using idle valve test mode and bumping the duty up and down until you no longer see a noticable change in engine speed. remember the values, for a 90-93 you'll see it around ~25-62%. Aslo make sure to remember the RPMs these duty values obtain. The second method is using the Warm-up only mode and doing the same thing, just make sure you are doing it in an area that your CLT temp is sitting at. You should have one of your dashboard gauges displaying the idle PWM% so you know exactly what the MS is outputting.
Ok so using idle test mode, I found that it dosent change for me anything below 33%. 33% to 0%, my idle is at 1300. At 56%, my car idles around 950.. Which is where I would like it.

Quote:

2. Once you learn these values, plug them into your PID closed loop idle control parameters. So Idle Open Duty %, Idle Valve closed Duty %, RPM with valve closed, and RPM with valve open.
So here is where I plugged my results in.. Did I do that part correctly? While you are looking... Do any of my other values in this screen seem off?




Quote:

3. Now I like to start tuning, first, make sure your RPM targets are flat across the board for now, try 1000RPM to start. Now, turn PID values all to zero. Turn on your headlights and a/c blip the throttle and upset the idle and it will probably lock at >2500RPM. you can turn them off now. Now, start increasing the I value. When you slowly add I, you'll notice the RPMs slowly come down towards your target. Do this until you're within ~50RPM of your target...you'll notice the Idle PWM% moves in large chunks so it can only get close enough. Next start increasing P, cycle things like the headlights and a/c, the P term is used to reach your target faster when something causes it to move from your target...you should end up with a term that's above, maybe even double, that of I. Reduce it if you start to oscillate. Lastly you can increase D term, It dampens the effect so you dont overshoot the target when P and I are driving it up to the RPM target. You shouldn't need much.

This is the quick and dirty method and should get you rolling smooth and stable within a few minutes. Make sure the rest of the parameters are tuned to your liking, such as the TPS trigger, dashpot, delays, PID lockup settings, etc.

What screen should I be doing all of this... I am definitely lost at this step. Looking through the entire idle section, I couldn't see where to change the RPM targets to set them to 1000.... Maybe i'm looking in the wrong place or not looking hard enough..
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Old 04-18-2014, 11:38 AM   #34
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yeah, something's up with the valve. it's gotta be the flyback.

should be like 600rpm at 30% and closer to 3K at 60%.
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Old 04-18-2014, 11:41 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
yeah, something's up with the valve. it's gotta be the flyback.

should be like 600rpm at 30% and closer to 3K at 60%.

So what should I do? Want me to crack the MS open and snap a couple pics?
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Old 04-18-2014, 11:43 AM   #36
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So what should I do? Want me to crack the MS open and snap a couple pics?
yes, on the green expander there should be two red wires coming off it and then under the the white ms3x daughterboard.

i dont want you to lift to the white board (easy to fubar pins if not careful), but see what you can do for getting a shot under it. then the underside of the blue board.
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Old 04-18-2014, 01:54 PM   #37
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Old 04-18-2014, 01:57 PM   #38
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show more where the red wires go on teh green board and then the underside of the blue.
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Old 04-18-2014, 02:10 PM   #39
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Old 04-19-2014, 03:25 PM   #40
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Pics any good?
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